dod delete etc: proper way to get part numbers?

i'm in the planning stage of doing a dod delete, and i want to replace several other engine components as part of the process, per this yt video.

a generic issue i have is that i don't know the proper way to get a list of oem part numbers. i have the service and repair manual for this 2020 6.2L tahoe, but it's light on part numbers. the diagrams and procedures are clear from the manual, so i don't anticipate any confusion on the processes.

i'm planning on replacing the vacuum pump, belts, oil pressure sensor, high pressure fuel pump, water pump, and spark plugs, in addition to doing the dod delete. i see some comments about replacing the oil pump being risky because if it isn't installed correctly, it can cause oil pressure problems and is hard to access.

i would appreciate any pointers on the dod delete process. i've already done most of the background reading and watched several videos about the process.

thanks for reading

Welcome to the forum from Virginia. Lots of places have ready to go kits. If you want to upgrade any parts go to gmpartsdirect and enter your vin. My rig doesn’t have AFM so I’m going off posts here.

I suggest that you call the folks at Texas Speed or Summit Racing. They are very knowledgeable in this area, and with your VIN, they should be able to provide you with the information that you need.

i'm most of the way through the disassembly process at this point, and i've got some notes after following the video. my plan is to note the part numbers once the disassembly is complete and then order replacements. i appreciate the cue to check gmpartsdirect, very helpful.

definitely drain your coolant - and optionally the transmission fluid and engine oil - before starting this process. in the video, the narrator uses a few tricks to drain some coolant, but even trying to keep it clean, i made a big mess. save yourself the hassle and just proactively drain the coolant.

the process of removing the fan shroud is out of order. i couldn't get the shroud to come out without disconnecting the coolant, transmission fluid, and engine oil lines running to the radiator.

to remove the starter, i had to follow the proper procedure and get access to the wiring via the passenger side wheel cover to disconnect it. this should be done _before_ removing the 2 bolts securing it on the underside, to ease disconnecting the harness with safety clip. this is the only part of the process i was confused by - what is the purpose of removing the starter? i thought it might be related to installing the crankshaft lock.

in general, i was amazed at how much i needed to lean in and reach to get to bolts and clips at the far/back side of the engine compartment. i'm 6'1" and have slightly longer than average arms, and i struggled to reach some of the furthest bolts and clips. this would have been super hard if i were a bit shorter. this makes me wonder if there is some optional tool to extend a sort of cradle over the engine compartment to make the work less difficult in terms of reaching/access.

I made the rad support and fenders as padded as possible and spent alot of time laying chest down on them through out a DOD/VVT delete. I also used cinder blocks layed on the ground flat side up on the concrete in a halo around the front end to step on as needed. there was also the times when i just climbed into the engine bay sitting on the rad support. Nothing worth while is ever easy they say!
The only tip that comes to mind is to heat your crank gear so it will slide right on. Toaster oven and welding gloves work great!

i'm having a real tough time getting this balancer bolt loose.

i've got the flywheel holding tool installed, so the crankshaft doesn't move. i have a dewalt dcf900 impact wrench, with a claimed max breaking torque of 1400 ft-lbs, and i managed to crack the 24 mm deep socket after a few unsuccessful rounds of hammering at highest setting. i've done 1 application of penetrating oil around the bolt head and gap between the balancer and the timing cover. i tried heating with a propane hand torch for roughly 45 seconds without success.

i am aware that larger high torque air impact wrenches can generate 3000+ ft-lbs, but i would like to avoid buying new tools that i won't reuse regularly. anyone got advice on how to get this bolt off? maybe use a sae socket for better fit?

persistent said:

...i don't know the proper way to get a list of oem part numbers.

Click to expand...

Plug your VIN into these two websites:


www.GMPartsGiant.com

persistent said:

i'm having a real tough time getting this balancer bolt loose.

i've got the flywheel holding tool installed, so the crankshaft doesn't move. i have a dewalt dcf900 impact wrench, with a claimed max breaking torque of 1400 ft-lbs, and i managed to crack the 24 mm deep socket after a few unsuccessful rounds of hammering at highest setting. i've done 1 application of penetrating oil around the bolt head and gap between the balancer and the timing cover. i tried heating with a propane hand torch for roughly 45 seconds without success.

i am aware that larger high torque air impact wrenches can generate 3000+ ft-lbs, but i would like to avoid buying new tools that i won't reuse regularly. anyone got advice on how to get this bolt off? maybe use a sae socket for better fit?

Click to expand...

4 foot breaker bar should crack it loose. Then run it out with your impact. That's probably the cheapest option

The only tool I have that works on really tight balancer bolts is the top air impact wrench that harbor freight sells. When I had to get the Jesus bolt off my old 740iL, I tried cheater pipes, lesser air impact wrenches, and electric impact wrenches. None would do it. Finally got it with the good air impact wrench. Can’t remember the model number, but I used a top quality impact socket as well.

I’ve had decent luck turning it to the right slightly then going back to the left.