My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

Kpwweb said:

For me, it was a good thing. I used an ANC harness, so it can go back to stock when it is traded.

Things I noticed: engine sound is louder. But I enjoy the V8.
Wind noise: seems to be no difference.
Road noose: maybe a smidge louder, but my A/T tires are relatively loud anyway so it is hard to tell.

Biggest difference is I don’t seem to get as tired or sleepy on long drives. Don’t know if it was the ANC, “pressure” from the speakers fighting the noise, or what.

I tend to like a sensory driving experience. I want to know what my vehicle is doing. In the end, I couldn’t tell much difference except the engine noise is better.

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Kpwweb said:

For me, it was a good thing. I used an ANC harness, so it can go back to stock when it is traded.

Things I noticed: engine sound is louder. But I enjoy the V8.
Wind noise: seems to be no difference.
Road noose: maybe a smidge louder, but my A/T tires are relatively loud anyway so it is hard to tell.

Biggest difference is I don’t seem to get as tired or sleepy on long drives. Don’t know if it was the ANC, “pressure” from the speakers fighting the noise, or what.

I tend to like a sensory driving experience. I want to know what my vehicle is doing. In the end, I couldn’t tell much difference except the engine noise is better.

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iamlegion said:

I decided to go with the stealth box, I don’t have time to fart around with mating a speaker to the Escalade box.

The LC2i almost threw me for a loop - when I was setting the sub level it kept clipping really early until I realized the main level out was also up… they should have you turn that down in the instructions.

it took a good 15-30 minutes to set the accubass, loc out levels, and the amp input level. I used an ANC termination harness.. worked like a charm. I left the loc knob by the jack access since I don’t foresee adjusting it all the time.

Sounds fantastic. Let me know if anyone has any questions.

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lakaw said:

Can you please share your final LC2I settings? I am leaning in this direction.

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iamlegion said:

I pretty much used this:

. I’m trying to attach where I think I left mine. I strongly suggest you get a multimeter and tune your amp based on output voltage.

If you’re new to audio stuff a few tips that may help:
- load select this is the resistance on the high level inputs to make sure to trick the stock amp there’s still a speaker attached. 60 ohm IIRC
- trigger mode, what logic does amp turn on with. I believe the middle option is relatively intelligent
- ground - depends how your power grounds are run
- accubass level - how much OEM bass coming in before the converter kicks in - read the manual but set it as low as you want if you want the sub always on, or a tad higher if you don’t want the sub on during podcasts for example
- threshold - this is the one to get right - this is where you start cranking bass heavy music and once you get the volume to where the bass isn’t increasing in the car speakers you turn threshold dial until the light comes on. This is key to getting the lc2 to add bass in the stock system would taper off. This plays into the last one:
- level - this is how much bass output it adds. This will depend on how good/big your sub is and will determine how hard the signal output drives the speaker. I have remote knobs for the lc2i and my JL amp so I set the level about 10% over my usual max then use the knobs based on preference

Once I did that there was only a little fine tuning once the amp was connected. I set bass heavy music to 75% volume then tuned the amp level and lc2i level to get the proper target amp output voltage for my sub

.

View attachment 446277

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Max2013 said:

INCORRECT INFO. PLEASE READ. There is something I need to correct in the 2nd paragraph concerning the 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on connection for the remote turn on and off the amp function. As it turns out, the “Brown” wire, that I mentioned, is not a suitable candidate for this function after all. The presence of the 12VDC, on that wire, goes away shortly after moving the vehicle. As long as the vehicle remains in PARK, the 12VDC is present. My apologies to anyone that may have followed my lead on using that Brown wire as “switched accessory power”. Sorry about that. I did not mislead you on purpose. As a replacement, for that switched power source, I ran a wire and tied into the 12VDC violet wire leading to the front console cigarette lighter socket. So, if you are looking for “switched accessory power”, Don’t use the Brown wire, as shown in the photos, and as I mentioned above.

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