Search 'Autel Scanner' on Amazon and review the different options that come up in the search
The TCC regulator valve is the valve...Fitzall is a company that makes updated/corrective valving that replaces the factory valving in that location in the valve body...The problem with the factory...
Id invest in one. Autel is prob the best bang for your buck and should give you all the capabilities you need as a DYIer. Not having a scan tool puts you at a huge disadvantage; they typically pay for themselves in one to three uses vs going to a shop to have them use their scanners and charging...
Take it out and completely go through it yourself or have a competent shop do it (obviously a diff one than last time).
Refer to my 4L60E information thread for guidance, parts selection and other tips/pointers...
Agree w/ @rockola1971 - check fluid levels and TCase...Your symptoms sound like 3-4 clutch failure, which accounts for roughly 85-90% of all 4L60E transmission failures. I've never been in 4L in my 03 Z71 outside of occasional rough trail use so never got it anywhere near fast enough to shift...
You're welcome, Sam...
I do the same for my customers if they have a fluke failure like yours after overhaul...I only do bench jobs so they'd bring back the transmission to me and I'd deal with it...The customer pays for parts, labor is on the house.
Forward sprag or low roller one-way clutch. If you have no forward movement in manual low then low roller has failed (these dont go bad very often). If there's movement in manual low and 2, but not Drive then fwd sprag. Borg Warner makes both and a new one of each should have been installed.
Neither do I hence why I taught myself how to build transmissions. If I can do it, you certainly can...My 6L80 Info thread (link is in my sig) has all the info to help you get started.
Let me know (or post in that thread) if you have any questions once you get started.
Q1: Look for local converter builders with good reviews - any TC you buy should have a thicker clutch than the .022" woven style clutch that comes in the factory JMBX converters
Q2: Any Dex VI fluid will do; Maxlife is fine
Q3: Zip kit is a great hydraulic correction kit; I install them in all...
Yes, give it about 10 complete drive cycles. Computer has to relearn your driving habits, etc and that takes some time...If it's still the same after 10 or so then call the trans builder back. Meanwhile check your fluid level when hot - make sure it's at the full mark on the dipstick...
Bumping this thread with a video on purchasing a used 6L80 or 6L90....While I generally don't recommend buying used automatics, many will take this approach due to budgetary and/or expediency reasons. So this video will give tips/pointers for how to weed out basket cases while giving important...
See if you can buy one from General Motors (either directly through the dealership or via GM Parts Direct / gmpartsdirect.com).
Check the condition of the fluid (appearance and smell) - if appearance is red and smells normal (i.e. not burnt or nasty), I wouldn't bother...Dex6 is designed to...
No upshift from first is usually caused by an interruption of the voltage signal from the vehicle speed sensor (yours is in the transfer case) and the pcm.
First ensure it's plugged in. If it is, check the wires for damage/shorts. If the wire is fine, go to the junkard and find another OEM VSS...
Sounds like the stator (one-way clutch assembly) inside the converter was defective and slipping. Glad you were able to get it resolved under warranty.
You should start a separate thread vs posting in someone else's so that you can get full attention on your issue vs competing with the OP.
If you typing "Overdrive" is meant to convey placement of the shifter into Drive (i.e not Drive3) then I might check your filter to see if it's clogged...
I made the mistake of putting the drive shaft back on w/o indexing and it let me know immediately upon driving it...Happend twice, once on my Trans Am and once on my Chevy R10 pick up...Maybe GM started to 'neutral balance' those shafts in later years as these vehicles were 1996 and 1987...
Have them take the pan off first to make sure the transmission doesnt also need an overhaul. If fluid looks good and nothing concerning in at the bottok then Id proceed with the converter upgrade. Othwrwise have the transmission overhauled as well - make sure everything that should be done is done.
One of your codes is related to the internal mode switch (IMS). The IMS communicates range position to the PCM and also acts as a neutral safety switch. So first thing Id do is test the mode switch to confirm or deny it's actually bad. If so, replace with an OEM Gen Motors IMS from your local...
Here you go, man. Definitely watch this as I encountered a problem that I had to 'solve' on the spot and I was able to do it given my ample supply of spare parts...But I'm glad I filmed this because it shows you not only what the job entails but also something that, while not common at all by...
Why did you figure it was similar? If you were watching vids showing driveshaft removal from a T-case but you're working with a 2WD extension housing, why did you automatically assume they were the same? I'm asking because I can't emphasize enough to you and/or any other DYI'ers reading this how...
The AC system (specifically the compressor) places some marginal load on the engine as it's working so it's possible that's throwing off the tune, though not likely since tunes would account for that. Bear in mind, this is a guess on my part as I'm not a tuner and have no experience working with...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.