X2 on the canister. they got pellets inside that break free and clog the vent tube up. its almost 100% if the time the issue when you cant fill the tank up.
be best to just take the plastic panel off on the pass side rear and turn the controls to hot and cold and watch the actuator to see if its moving. you can take the actuator off and turn the knob by hand from hot to cold as well as a temp fix.
new actuators are like 15 bucks on rock auto. two...
you can do the free rental deal from a parts store and get a pressure tester that you leave the rad in and the system fully connected.
most common leak is the plastic side tanks on the rad. they just crack with age. its just plastic after all. thanks GM!
if your towing with it a trans cooler would be a great item to add.
you can always scan for live data and see just how hot the tranny gets. if its getting over 200º do a cooler for sure. cooler the temp the better, but not under 170 ish. it needs some heat in it.
i had the trans pump go bad once, its sounded kind of like a bad power steering pump. but that was a 4l80e not a 60 like the 5.3 engine get loaded up behind em.
if you want to make it a "toy", cam, headers, tune, higher stall, tc, exhaust. if your just taking family trips and the likes. just leave it stock, its the most reliable that way.
at 65k, you found a gem really. as long as its not rotted out.
from personal experience, if the belt snaps and the the tensioner pulley breaks. your ac compressor is on borrowed time.
so if the belt breaks again in a weeks time. just replace the compressor. or you will be buying another belt, then another belt and so on and so on lol fml type of deal. i...
hpt cant. you need a tech 2 scanner or its equal to do the abs bleed part.
ive changed calipers on my 05 tahoe with out doing the abs bleed. key is keeping the master full and not letting it drain.
maybe you just got a blown fuse. theres two fuse boxes. one under the hood and one on the d/s of the dash.
as far as a bcm swap they need to be vin matched to work as far as i know.
under the light switch is a small round button. push it in one time. lights should come back to life. its a master on - off for them lights. ive got mine turned off.
if the master leaks its under the base where it mounts to the booster, sometimes they leak, other times they dont. theres seals inside that fail and the plunger can just push in and fluid leaks around the plunger. try bleeding the master. then the brakes. if they still dont work then the master...
fluid in the master? it should always have fluid in it.
if the soft pedal started before the new calipers the master is likely bad.
if this all went down after the caliper swap and the master went dry, you introduced air into the master and it will need to be bleed first, you can do it still...
have to ask. are the bleeders facing up. aka at the top of the calipers? its super easy to mix em up and put em on the wrong side., down side is they will never bleed any air out.
if your booster was bad you'd have a rock hard pedal. like when the engine is off, pump the brakes the pedal...
my driver side front and rear blend door actuators both took a crap on me. the rear would change hot to cold on its own, same with the front driver side, some times a restart of the engine would fix it, i ended up changing both out. rock auto sells them actuators for like 12 bucks.
the blend...
you mean hydro boost brakes? theres no vacuum if so.
looks like this?
if you have the big round brake booster with a vac line to booster behind the master thats just a normal brake set up.
you'll need to explain this over boosting issue better cause that dont make any real sense.
sounds like valve seals to me. at 200k you may as well toss new valve springs in there as long as they need to come off to to change the seals.
might want to do a compression test as well if the seals look ok. should be able to see em through the springs.
theres no security chip in the gmt 800 trucks.
do we know what parts were changed? ignition harness? clock spring? why was he in the column in the first place?
does it crank and not start? or just dead when turned to crank?
FYI, dorman sells hard plastic line repair parts. come with the pinch lock ends just like factory for like 20 a part. but rubber hose also works out very well when need be.
i used to race a 98 regal, it was running mid 14's when it was stock, fun is fun. it a manual? they tend to move pretty good.
heres a vid of a fox body getting away from me lol it was a manual and if you watch his back tire you can see him shifting gears.
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