I agree with 91RS been in business myself and he is right!! specifically on the " done it so often can do it with my eyes closed, in shorter time" that is expensive experience and NEEDS to be rewarded financially
In Canada we carry a container of sand(Ashes if available) Not high tech, but can't argue with success. An ice cream tub full parked in the driveway and another in the vehicle.
Vent hose lets expanded air out and is high enough inside the frame to prevent water from entering in High water conditions, that cool the trans mission, creating a vacuum that would introduce water inside the trans mission
To me it sounds like a problem with the remote circuits As it works perfect with the key. The sound sounds like the starter is still engaged after the engine is running yet is not with the key> I would check , does it do the problem with another remote (you have a second remote?) and the relay...
WD 40 is a WATER Displace solution, has no lube abilities to speak of. It leaves a very thin coating to prevent water problems. Use products recommended, blast lots on the locking mechanism. Been there done that it WORKS.
If you will encounter slippery pavement as in high elevations or winter, DO NOT have sway control on your hitch. Usually you can disconnect (take it off the hitch) it . The reason is: it makes the connection steering wise more rigid and the trailer will start steering the tow vehicle during slip...
The wire is not making contact in the terminal needs resoldering. another problem was the original batteries had inside them connecting straps that were not conected properly, defective welds. Remedy is new battery
I have had good results from reforming the top of the door by lowering the glass and closing the door till my fingers are between the door frame and the body, now press inward on the widow frame and prevent the door closing. This bends the widow frame ever so slightly , no rattles left
Used to have that problem with my older Hoe, took the switch out re soldered every connection on the switch that was factory soldered and never had that problem again
Variable effort steering has a sensor at the bottom of the steering housing and a valve in the pump, either one can give very squirily problems. Only used inn one or two year issues
Take a look at the last picture of #5 Dec 5 follow the grooves of the belt visible above each other, on the one pulley all grooves are occupied, on the other one, one groove is empty and the other side that belt rib is hanging in air
If you look at the inside panel in the location of the latch, you will see a little bump in the plastic panel. care fully DRILL A 1/8 LOCATING HOLE in the bump, enlarge it to 5/8" and you will find the lever rod that unlocks it, get a 5/8 plug to close the hole. Use your ingenuity to make a pull...
Call your local CAA and have them tow it to your regular repair facility. The towing is free if you have CAA plus, if not the cost of towing is less than the amount you are getting ripped of. CAA will tow many miles free by the way
Your problem sounds like you are losing brake assist, there are vacuum assist and hydraulic assist. If hydraulic, check your power
steering fluid level. Backing on the ramp changes the levels in the reservoir of both the master cylinder and the power steering level, this is the one I suspect
to...
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