I've got a '14 that I've owned since mid '17. For the most part, alot of the issues that plagued the earlier models have been rectified by this MY. Dealership also performed some recalls when I took it in for service. Other than that it's been maintenance and replacement of components due to...
OP, the PPV's front strut is a custom setup that uses an Avalanche spring with a heavy duty strut - you sadly can't buy this as an 'all in one' from the dealer. Here are the part numbers as I had to refresh mine a few months ago:
PPV trucks have 6DA, 7DA VIN codes for Avalanche springs (front...
PPV uses Avalanche springs for the front and rear and a heavy duty strut/shock.
If you absolutely want to go to LS/LT height - just ask the dealer for the 2010 LS/LT front quickstrut package and similar LS/LT rear springs and shocks.
Congrats on your vehicle purchase. I picked up a '14 in about 4 years ago with 204K on it and I now have 264K on it.
If you can replace the O-ring on the oil pickup tube when you can, that'll keep the oil pressure steady on the vehicle.
I replaced my front and rear shocks last week with the...
I'm in Canada and I also received this.
That said I would get that cooling fan wiring done as it's a few years old and probably might have some benefit to your truck.
I have a jump seat in my '14 and although it's kinda cool, the way the dashboard extends forward doesn't make it usable for adults. I think the dashboard doesn't extend as much for the pick up trucks.
I have a '14 PPV that comes with the H3 mounts. The vibrations are negligible and my truck's interior is spartan as heck with basic cloth seating poor sound dampening/insulation.
On a regular Tahoe I doubt you'd feel anything with the H3 mounts.
@jz57 That could work if the gasket is non-OEM and not not held in place with rivets. But I highly recommend what @Ponchonutty said and install a new gasket.
If you're DIYing this job, it's not complex by any means but definitely tedious and the oil pan is held in place with 14 bolts, on top of...
@jz57 The factory installed gasket is held in place with rivets to the pan, so you might want to replace it as it could bend/warp during removal. If you've had it replaced before then you could be OK with reusing it if you take care to evenly tighten all the bolts in an X pattern.
@Royalwapiti This line and the oil cooler lines are prone to seepage at the crimping point. There's a similar thread a few posts down about only replacing the flexible tubing and the crimps with better clamps.
@kronus I believe Dallas ( @techbiker ) re-used the springs and just replaced the struts. On the previous page he has a picture of his truck parked besides a 15+ Tahoe and he mentions that it is lower. Do hope he's OK, miss his informative posts.
@Curt Hibbert Do keep us posted. I need to do the same for my truck on both oil and transmission cooler lines. I found the link below and like you I'm wondering if this can be done on the truck without needing to remove the lines...
@2011SSVHOE Apparently the dealer can do this, or a weak battery based on what I've read online.
My truck came with 9800 hours and 200K KM. Been running great since I picked it up.
@jonnytahoe They put the drain bolt at the side as opposed to the rear, so on ramps you're absolutely right that there will always be some dirty oil left behind.
@JCope79 Congrats on the purchase of the truck.
How's the mileage on it? I recommend that you knock off maintenance items first and drive it for a month or two before going all out into the other items.
With your truck being almost a decade old, the fleet that ran it prior to you probably...
Hey all, just posting a follow up as it got too cold up here in Canada to pinpoint the leak in my garage plus I had way too many other commitments so I had the dealer take a look.
Unfortunately it was the steering rack itself so they recommended replacing the whole unit. Truck did have about...
Try running the vehicle for a month without the Range unit. In the grand scheme of things it would be far cheaper for you to replace the Range AFM unit with a new one vs. diagnosing and repairing those fault codes.
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