Some of you are making the motor mount swap harder than you need to. It can be done completely from above if you pull the steering shaft. I used an engine hoist to lift the engine. But careful use of a jack works, too. Don't be afraid to cut off the heat shield on the old mount, which is in...
My experience, exactly. I'm still running a bunch of injector cleaner through it, hoping that helps. And at 123k miles, it's probably about due for coils, plugs and wires. Still, overall the small vibration at idle is worth it, knowing the new mount won't rip in half.
Exactly. An I-beam is optimized to concentrate as much material as far apart as possible to minimize weight and provide lots of stiffness against bending.
Just in case anyone is interested, the torsional stiffness varies by the fourth power of the diameter. Put another way, if you keep everything else the same (bar length, material, etc.), and just vary the diameter of the bar, doubling the torsional stiffness of the bar requires only a 19%...
I think the spoke design has more to do with whether the caliper will clear than anything. That's why I advocated making a template that outlines the cross-section of the caliper relative to the wheel hub. This could be held against the back of any wheel to check clearance.
For this to be a viable option for me, I'd have to be able to fit the wheels I'm running ('15-'19 Esky Platinum 22's). Since wheel fitment is such an issue, I'm trying to figure out how to get past the need to buy and install parts and check my wheels directly.
Anyone with some drawing skills...
I can say with confidence that a mini-split is FAR superior to a window unit. You get significantly better efficiency, better control over air handling and temperature, and programmability that a window unit can't come close to.
Installation is pretty easy. The outside part sits on a slab, or...
The H3 mounts don't relocate the engine at all. They take up less space. But that's due to the much smaller heat shield on the mount, not because the mount is shorter.
Yes. I was hoping not to ever see it again. So a big, hearty, sarcastic thanks for that. Of course social media being what it is, opinions are about 50/50 it's the ugliest thing ever or the coolest thing ever.
There is one, but it's HUGE, and takes forever to mine for information...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/broken-motor-mounts.55790/
Someone could just sticky this...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/drivers-side-motor-mount-replacement.68300/
Not many posts, but my updates...
You can always get a cheap, curbed wheel to carry under there. Back when I had drop spindles on my Expedition (requiring 18" wheels), I couldn't find an 18" spare to fit the metric bolt pattern they used on the '97-02s. So since I had Lightning wheels on the Expy, I bought a curbed Lightning...
I'm leaning toward the Brembo kit as it's standard equipment on the '21+ PPVs and SSVs, and a GM option for civilians. Parts cost should be significantly better in the long run.
As others (including myself) have repeatedly stated, the solid mount's original use was as a PS motor mount on a Hummer H3. The GM part number is 25847739. This same part number will fit both sides. I bought two, and a trans mount, with the intention of replacing them all. But I've only...
+1 for BB tune. They can do a lot more than the Range device. I had them turn off AFM, firm up the transmission shifts, and turn off the downstream O2 sensors for future exhaust system upgrades. He turned off the speed limiter, too, after asking me if I wanted him to. During the drive, he...
You've probably already covered this. But you'll need a proportioning valve, too. The rears typically do about 20% of the braking due to weight transfer. Without changing the brake bias, you'll be activating your ABS a lot more often.
I've been awaiting the arrival of GMT900s to my local pull-a-part yards, so I could do some more customizing. I FINALLY got an alert of a new arrival today of the first one to show up close to me. Then I take a look:eek::eek::eek...
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