Yes sir. Got another one on the way. Rather simple job since it was time I flush the coolant with 112k miles. I was just confused about the loud growl on start-up similar to a muffler delete.
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After looking at this video regarding replacement of the radiator, I don’t think that hole is relevant to anything. On an aftermarket radiator it may serve as a drain hole.
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I have a coolant leak yet the “low coolant” message hasn’t popped up as of yet. As of yesterday, on start-up the exhaust has a high pitch growl tone. I’m not sure if the water pump is going bad or the radiator is the culprit. The leak is prominent on the driver side with fluid on the splash pan...
Yes the radio had the alternator whine when on but not the Bluetooth which was weird. I grounded each audio jack to the android unit to get rid of the whine. My px6 unit doesn’t have a SWC nor key1 or key2 wire(s) to tap into for the PAC or Axxes steering control module.
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I have that steering wheel in my eBay cart for about a month. I may pull the trigger soon. How do you like your android screen? I have the px6 and my only complaint is that I lost my chimes because I have an aftermarket 6 channel amp. My volume/mute steering wheel controls don’t work anymore...
Check the rubber tunnel insulation in between the door where the wires run from the PCM to window switch. I could not pinpoint where my leak was occurring on the driver side mat until I fastened this tubing up on each side of the frame.
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I have an Eibach rear sway bar and I just switched back to factory links because with the DJM angled links my bar was rubbing the panhard on dips. I have a 2-3/4 w/ air ride.
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I don’t mean to laugh [emoji38]but the angle of the vid and truck squeaking is hilarious. Sounds like an old worn out mattress from a lot of bumping and grinding.
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I’m going changed out the rear one with the same nickel plated yoke n u joint I did on the front. It should be the same
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Oh ok. I replaced only the front slip yoke going to the front wheels on mine. Was going to change the rear as well to the nickel plated to see if that will cure it.
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Well if the rest of the T breaks off then I will switch to the billet style over the OEM plastic. As u stated...my option is a quick fix that can be done as you wait on replacement items. [emoji41]
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The hose(s) that sit above the splash pan have a tendency to start leaking as well. I used the same method for the heater hose w/ screw clamps as oppose to buying a new hose with the crappy clamps gm sell. But to each’s own, my 08 Lade only has 106k miles and I don’t plan on having it pass 160k...
I can’t say because mines hasn’t deteriorated as of yet. I am giving you advice from similar responses from this same underlying issue.
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What does the plastic breaking off have to do with using the existing hose minus the crappy compression clamp from GM? Remove the broke plastic from the hose. I had no issues for a couple years now since using the hose with a screw clamp. The other parts of t-fitting is fine.
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When u replaced the sensor did you remove the screen filter? If so then the only other problem would be the pick-up tube washer in the oil pan. It’s known to go bad especially with the mileage on your truck.
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Just use a Dremel tool to cut the oem clamp bracket and there is enough slack to use the existing hose. Then buy a small set screw hose clamp from your local hardware store. Tighten it real tight and walla. Same thing happen to me and that was the fix. Don’t go out and buy another cheap plastic...
I purchased them from amazon and the customer service number should give you the part number for your truck which is lowered 2” more than mines.
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I had those b4 and they are designed like the moog which snapped within a couple of months. I’ll see how long these swivel links last, they seemed to be designed better.
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