The Dorman ones seem to fail in a few years according to forum members who have used them. They’re probably made with an inferior plastic. The OEM ones tend to last 10 years or more.
Heater Hose Blew Out
- Thread starter Joseph Garcia
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
denalianyone
NYBlackLade08
Just use a Dremel tool to cut the oem clamp bracket and there is enough slack to use the existing hose. Then buy a small set screw hose clamp from your local hardware store. Tighten it real tight and walla. Same thing happen to me and that was the fix. Don’t go out and buy another cheap plastic t fitting
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
if you wanted to delete the rear heat for some reason yuo could use the striaght
i mean if you are in a pinch you gotta do what ya gotta do but that's a short term fix
Ya that's just setting yourself up for another failure down the road a bit, once the plastic is deteriorated enough to just break off on it's own then it's time to replace the whole shebang and it would be just someones luck to be not really paying attention and have the engine overheat and cause other much more severe problems. bad advice.
i mean if you are in a pinch you gotta do what ya gotta do but that's a short term fix
if anyone decides to go with the Dorman be sure it is the one with the part number ending with "CD" which is "Changed Design" which supposedly has some kind of improvement made versus the original dorman.
denalianyone
NYBlackLade08
What does the plastic breaking off have to do with using the existing hose minus the crappy compression clamp from GM? Remove the broke plastic from the hose. I had no issues for a couple years now since using the hose with a screw clamp. The other parts of t-fitting is fine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
if yours has lasted a couple more years great, it's just a matter of time, those "T"s can break off anywhere at anytime once the plastic has become brittle and the T on the rubber hose splitting from off the water pump to the reservoir breaks also. I learned my lesson already. when you have been driving these for 20+ years you see some patterns those "T"'s haven't changed design. in time the reservoir will crack, the radiator will crack, the water pump will leak. the upper and lower radiator hoses seem to last though. The hoses, T's, reservoir, radiator are maintenance items, the water pump is also but generally it doesn't just blow out all the coolant and leave you stranded somewhere usually they develop a leak or a slow dribble giving you time to get it replaced.
You can replace them with aluminum Ts for $70, 12" of 3/4" hose, 12" of 1/2" hose and 10 hose clamps and it'll never be a problem again.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451010
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451011
Good grief look at all those hose clamps to possibly leak. That does not look like a good solution to just getting new OEM ones that’ll likely last another 10+ years.
They wont leak. That's a bullet proof setup compared to that plastic shit.
Great thread and info here by the way guys good job.
denalianyone
NYBlackLade08
The hose(s) that sit above the splash pan have a tendency to start leaking as well. I used the same method for the heater hose w/ screw clamps as oppose to buying a new hose with the crappy clamps gm sell. But to each’s own, my 08 Lade only has 106k miles and I don’t plan on having it pass 160k.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
denalianyone
NYBlackLade08
Well if the rest of the T breaks off then I will switch to the billet style over the OEM plastic. As u stated...my option is a quick fix that can be done as you wait on replacement items. [emoji41]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
