Do they still send out catolages. I sent them a email their reply was no such animal. I have 60 years of experence reading and altering plugs, all plugs are good there’s no bad manufacture plug but the bum **** comes from choosing wrong plug and champion you have to go alittle hotter and ign...
well i did alot of research on this plug and i even left emails to major plug manufactures and got very little to no help with this , so i dug in. Iam looking into the 17.5mm reach plug vers 18 mm reach,,more options and its only a mear .001 shorter. I am going to buy the champion plug RS15LYC...
Has anyone done research on spark plugs for the 5.3 engine in the respects of choosing a plug one heat range hotter doesn’t matter who’s plug
Currently using RT53x and ngk doesn’t offer a range hotter and auto lite doesn’t either. Exotic metals are not important copper will be fine
Back in the day actual resistors where used in blower circuits just like a real resistor was used in spark ignition points systems starts on 12 runs on 6 Vdc. Chrysler on firer wall GM used a long resistive wire special for circuit. Most other resistors were wire wound with crimped ends...
Connectors are fine. Previous owners must have changed that as it was in nice shapes.
No I didnot check for signal from head at time of not operating. Was my next step but just wanted to know wheather resistor assy can destroy head electronics.
Yea biggest cause of seal going bad and leaking out Freon is when ac compressor doesn’t work in defrost mode. Or system loses Freon pressure. Ac provides warm. DRY air to suck off moisture from inside windshield during winter months. Or high humidity cabin air.
One thing to note about ac...
Resistor module shorted and always ran even with key off. Shorted SCR in the module
But now that I replaced module another problem came about. At times I have no blower at all now control head does show operation. Does this blower resistor shorting by the way system did blow 40 amp fuse in...
I had to work on my daughters car it’s a Ford but rear ends are rear ends. I didnot here any noises dad. Yea sure. Axle broke off behind bearing and eat damage housing nothing left of bearings lucky rollers didn’t get into ring and pinion. Point is I made some fixtures on my lath out of water...
I 200 % that OEM has one of the highest reman system. Just finding alt conpendent alternitves is hard. And there’s warranty exclusions with even OEM. If I had the room I would do it myself and know what I own. Finding someone that doesn’t takes short cuts reusing springs and bearings to make...
I seen a place somewhere Detroit gear or something like that selling exchanged trans and transfer box’s. Is this a good place to do business or is there some better suggestions out there
251,000 miles 2006 Yukon xl may as well start planning get rid out them now.
5.3 flex and I tow
Sorry was incorrect in my discription of. I meant disable button for stability control. And no I don’t use auto button for wheel control always left in 2 wheel drive. I don’t use auto button.
Some of that not all of it. Traction control message comes on power gets cut it well only coast and only happens on start up. Doesn’t feel like any braking is taken effect. No I am learning this system. Only been through one little winter with it. Just know the noises of changing to diff modes...
Traction message only appears for a few seconds then goes away. I am not formilure with this computer system. Just old world 4 wheel drive. I tried pushing button on dash to disingage system to see if that helps but have not concurred results test Happens cold or hot doesn’t mstter
Yes something is going on there because along with this comes traction message and gas pedal not responding to foot control pressure. I think that seems to me pedal control is removed by system when it sences traction problems but this all happens only on take off or starting out from a stop.
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