I got the gearbox out. Success !
My old idler and pitman and new ones have NO cotter pin and castle nut. Standard nut.
I feel I should put locktite blue on them as well as the 10mm strg shaft bolt.
Or locktite red? But maybe that's too much...just feel that they need extra insurance.
Yes...
I will check that out. All 4 replaced 40k miles ago. Hmmmm.
When u cant get enough out of a hammer...u buy a 3ft pipe to go over the pickle fork and get the big guy out to win the battle. Big power outside the chassis is better than dinkin' in small spaces. I win. Pittman arm wouldn't come off...
I tried to shake/move the tie rods inr/otr and got nothing. But when a helper move steering wheel I seem to feel it in otr rod so that makes me think they gotta go. I think I'm right, just hoping the gearbox solves this and no more parts.
Like I said, when I get the other parts all done I will...
Got new toys the other day.
Pwr strg cooler
Idler
Pittman
Gearbox
High pressure line.
Got lines out and idler installed and strg cooler installed. Tore apart old idler mount. I pumped a LOT of grease before the grease came out. Must have been dry but I put in 2 pumps or so fairly regularly...
Oh. Crap. I slowed down and more clearly and the AAM might be only for the drain in cover style.
But it looks like my fill plug. Maybe it will fit.
Not a huge waste if it doesn't I guess. I cleaned up the threads on the plug and lubed w/ antiseize and will prob grease around it as well. This...
My plug isn't really bad, but I'm thinking of swapping it out since I'm draining the oil. It does come out...I just want to replace it before any issues.
Looked and looked and cant find part number for it.
Anyone know this?
Say What??????? $1000 for plugs & wires!
I know I've paid prob too much at times for services but that's more than ridiculous. I cant even describe it.
Keep it unless u got plenty of cash.
I always look at that keep/sell thing each year. And then I keep mine.
Depreciation on newer is at least $1000/yr and if I can maintain mine for $1500 or less i am prob ahead. Gosh, prob $2500 would keep me ahead.
I've just ordered 600-700 in front end...
Jealous. Got my 2001 from Texas 5 yrs ago. Still no rust on body. Rinse like crazy and lube excessively.
I know no other answer. Next vehicle if older will also be from no salt area.
ahh. yes. the rust issue. I know it too well.
My underbody in many areas looks like joints are leaking but ya have to know my vehicle, which I pretty much do, to realize its not a leak but anti-rust lubricant.
Ha. A shop it was in thought I was leaking at the fuel filter and brake lines along...
For grins and giggles check the pad wear. Wondering if one side is worn far down and the other not so much.
I'm thinking a caliper pin froze and too much heat on rotor and hub. Cooked things.
I'm no brake pro but....if that's likely then I rest my case on 3M silicone for the pins. Love that stuff.
Ha! Did some research....I get it now.
AcDelco makes 3-levels. I thought only 2 levels.
Advantage - junk
Professional -normal aftermarket quality
OEM
I thought professional versions were the SAME as oem quality but apparently they are not and are all together a diff quality level. So, I...
Ok. So as much a pain is the pitman is to replace, I will spend the xtra $40 or so and buy the acdelco $90 pitman that matches the idler asm then I wont have to assemble those pieces.
Gosh, Acdelco better come thru for me...ha.
Oh. Ok.
To me the 2 ACdelco prof 4-spline options must be diff somehow. If I get the idler asm I need $90 version and if I buy idler and brkt separately then I need $50 version.
If I order idler asm I now know which pitman I need but I still don't know why they have the 2 pitman designs.
What's the diff between rockauto's two AcDelco 4-spline pitmans? I cannot tell.
The idler/brkt asm you have listed above specifies to use certain pn# for the 4-spline pitman application. Do you know why? There are 2 diff 4-spline pitmans available but why I don't know and if I use the idler asm...
I will pass for now on the damper.
Idler & Pitman will be AcDelco prof.
Unsure if I want to go for the center link replacement. I will check into into it further.
Yes, I will double check on bleed procedures.
Q#1: How long might an idler arm last?
Q#2: How long might the center link last?
Q#3: What is a steering damper?
Q#4: Shouldn't I be able to determine if the parts are bad to prevent wasteful part swapping?
So. I pulled the trigger on the rebuilt from the specialty builder. They replace every stinkin' thing that wears (as needed) from what they say.
Reset things to factory spec and so at least I'm not gambling with the possibility of having to R&R twice. Should be a huge upgrade from my loose/worn...
One small piece of advise on brakes.:
Don't bother w/ the "high temp" synthetic brake grease. I think it was permatex that I used.
It was supposedly specifically for brakes. Well, on my car (not my Yukon) my pins kept freezing up on my calipers. Thought this was a high end lube and it wasn't...
So regarding reman brands...
I see mixed reviews on brands...even on acdelco. If I swap a box I want a good reman. Hoping for tighter steering and a lasting reman.
Apparently bearings aren't always replaced oe upgraded which affects performance and price.
Would you guys risk:
1. acdelco at...
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