CV axles replacement 2002 Chev suburban LT

[OR VietVet]

It would be well over a $1000. Hell, there is a thread on here where a member was at the dealer and they quoted him $400 to clean the throttle body plate. That should tell you something.

Wonder how much new front bearing hubs and brake rotor and pads install would cost at GM garage ? Would it be over $1000 ?

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To answer your other question, if those are the original axles at 209k miles, that is real good. They hardly wear out unless the boot splits and the grease slings out and the bearings run dry.

 

[Woodblocker55]

It would be well over a $1000. Hell, there is a thread on here where a member was at the dealer and they quoted him $400 to clean the throttle body plate. That should tell you something.



To answer your other question, if those are the original axles at 209k miles, that is real good. They hardly wear out unless the boot splits and the grease slings out and the bearings run dry.

Thanks for input [emoji106] ... I got one hub installed I ended up getting Moog hub for the front .. wonder how many miles there good for 50,000 miles ? All boots look good on CV axles [emoji106] thanks for the tip.
I'm replacing shocks also and doing brake job and semi metallic pads. Both are AC Delco ..

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[new2yukon]

One small piece of advise on brakes.:

Don't bother w/ the "high temp" synthetic brake grease. I think it was permatex that I used.

It was supposedly specifically for brakes. Well, on my car (not my Yukon) my pins kept freezing up on my calipers. Thought this was a high end lube and it wasn't.

Had to check the pins every year.

Switched to 3M silicone @ $18 per small jar but it WORKS! Highly recommend the spend on that stuff. No more stuck caliper pins after 4 yrs. My rears were stuck last year but either I hadn't regreased them w/ the silicone but even if I did, they went far longer w/ the 3M.

My $.02.

 

[Woodblocker55]

As looks someone had all ceramic pads .. so rotors have this glazed bluish tint mainly on the inside and rust pitted .. but outsides look better . I have a feeling someone replaced pads but not rotors at one time years ago . As looks both sides had heating issues one side bearing was rainbow colors other side rotor was dragging . I got one side bad bearing hub out with air hammer .. Im still have passenger side bearing hub still soaking . Air hammer would not even brake it loose .. maybe it will tomorrow.. I had to order 3 new bolts for that side air hammer destroyed the heads trying to get it out . And new rock shields .. thanks for tip on grease ..
I think in rust belt brakes seize up from the rust and destroy the pads and rotors. But I'm only guessing.



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[Woodblocker55]

Passenger side was stuck super super tight.
Air hammers ,5 pound mall , full can of penetrant,
Then I put rotor Back words and beat on that and it finally got the hub out.[emoji849][emoji15]

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[new2yukon]

For grins and giggles check the pad wear. Wondering if one side is worn far down and the other not so much.

I'm thinking a caliper pin froze and too much heat on rotor and hub. Cooked things.

I'm no brake pro but....if that's likely then I rest my case on 3M silicone for the pins. Love that stuff.

 

[Woodblocker55]

For grins and giggles check the pad wear. Wondering if one side is worn far down and the other not so much.

I'm thinking a caliper pin froze and too much heat on rotor and hub. Cooked things.

I'm no brake pro but....if that's likely then I rest my case on 3M silicone for the pins. Love that stuff.

Ok get ready for this there's still grease in the pins that's not problem problem is the rust under stainless clip pushes up and locked inside pad in place I had to hammer it out of there . So it was
Doing that strange tip and pinch deal and heated everything up on passager side. I'm going to clean it up under clips and grease it to stop the rusting under neath and replace boots on the pins also ..
So it's kind same issue pads not sliding freely .
Ya took alot beating to get pad out of there . And yes they where ceramic pads ya heating up nasty things .

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[new2yukon]

ahh. yes. the rust issue. I know it too well.

My underbody in many areas looks like joints are leaking but ya have to know my vehicle, which I pretty much do, to realize its not a leak but anti-rust lubricant.

Ha. A shop it was in thought I was leaking at the fuel filter and brake lines along drvr rocker panel. Nope. That's all gooped w/ lubricant. So lines last longer and if nuts have to be pulled that don't ROUND OFF AND BREAK...

I don't like it, but its better than rust. I know of no other way other than moving to the south.

 

[OR VietVet]

No rust in the PNW where no salt is used. At least here in Oregon, no salt.

 

[new2yukon]

No rust in the PNW where no salt is used. At least here in Oregon, no salt.

Jealous. Got my 2001 from Texas 5 yrs ago. Still no rust on body. Rinse like crazy and lube excessively.

I know no other answer. Next vehicle if older will also be from no salt area.