While I've never heard of one of these pickup tubes falling out of the pump.... It just makes sense to have two bolts, one on each side, applying equal pressure....vs just one bolt, applying unequal pressure.
And it seems obvious the original design of the LS engine was to use two bolts...
One final thought in this teardown following the Valvoline, I did notice the underside of the VLOM play have that golden hue that is normal.... And I could clearly see where oil had been leaking past either the o-rings or other components near the solenoids. I'll try to get a picture up...
Just a reminder to the vast numbers of us that will be looking at doing their pick up tube o-ring. Note the pick up tube using two bolts instead of the OEM one bolt. (All LS oil pumps have two threaded bolt holes to use) Below will be the link for the girdle that overlaps the flange on the OEM...
If I remember right, the ignition key has to be in the run position. Use your thumb and move the gear until you're up against the spring loaded start position. That puts you in the run position. Key on engine off in other words. Insert ignition switch, if you're on the money it will work just fine
You just need to get that little white gear clocked correctly. Sounds like it's one tooth off. It's been a couple years since I had to deal with that, and yeah, it's a headache. Normally the new ignition switch will come with specific instructions. If not, there should be something online or on...
It is a couple dollars more for 5 quart jug, but after this experiment I think it's worth it. I've never seen any sort of additive actually clean that gold layer on the inside of the engine. That gold layer is harmless, but the way I look at it is if it can clean that, it pretty much cleans...
Opened up the pressure relief valve in the OEM oil pump. No accumulated debris of any kind. I expected to find at least a little bit of crud, but the plunger wasn't sticking at all and appears to be working as expected. This is one area I expected maybe to find some debris from all the cleaning...
We just pulled the timing cover. I'd have to say it's pretty conclusive on the Valvoline actually cleaning the inside of the engine. Keep in mind this is only two oil change intervals. You can clearly see where the oil slings off the gears.
Overall I'm liking what I see. Going forward I...
And there's more to it. I bought it from a guy in Bremerton, we got it from his father that was working on dismantling those Liberty ships. It's a shame, most of them were melted down for scrap. I also have a 9 x 36 South bend that I bought Navy surplus from Hawthorne Nevada. Serial number puts...
..... And for the obvious question as to how I made the tool, with the help of a 1941 Sheldon 10" metal lathe that was salvaged off a Liberty Ship at the end of world war II in Bremerton Washington, before the ship was dismantled. Every ship had one of these to make parts when needed at sea...
Anyone looking to delete the AFM on a 6.2, below is a photo of the correct L92 OEM camshaft that retains VVT if you're looking to maintain stock performance and avoid additional tuning. Also in the picture is my homemade camshaft installation tool, the little seals for the water crossover from...
Everything going back in is genuine GM or AC Delco, except for the Dorman harmonic balancer, felpro head gaskets and front seal, Melling oil pump and Cloy's timing set with gears. Oh yes, a new doorman coolant reservoir bottle and a Gates water pump.
The real estate I was referring to and trying to keep organized for an AFM delete:
Clearly do not use your wife's kitchen countertops or dining room table.... There's a bunch of other stuff on the floor like the front differential, exhaust manifolds, the old radiator which is getting...
The dealer would have used only OEM stuff.... So that's a good start. Dropping the oil pan isn't that bad. The differential is easy to drop using a regular floor jack. If you've got the steering rack directly underneath the front of the oil pan, you'll need a 24 mm impact socket and a good...
.... Keep in mind if you're above 200,000 miles, it's not uncommon to be a little bit of everything listed above. And don't forget to pull out your oil pressure sending unit and lift a little screen out under it and see if it's plugged.... If it is your gauge will be reading low.
Yes, low oil pressure can cause this. So can cheap aftermarket lifters installed 10,000 miles ago.... And it could simply be the o-ring on the pickup tube in the oil pan, or a weak oil pressure relief valve also in the oil pan.... Or worn out cam bearings will give you low oil pressure.... As...
The clicking or ticking sound is usually a lifter that sticking. Usually a bad check ball in the lifter.... Or it's full of crud keeping the check ball open. What happens is the lifter can't pump all the way up and that puts slack in your valve train. The sound you hear is the end of the lifter...
On a side note.... I've only found those grains of what appear to be sand in the GM OEM oil pumps on the iron block engines. Haven't ran into that on an aluminum block engine yet.
I'm real curious to open up his oil pump relief valve. Many times I found the OEM relief valve has what appears to be casting sand collected in it.... In many cases it has either resulted in the relief valve sticking and losing oil pressure, or doing so intermittently. It reminds me of the...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.