we got a dewalt in the work trailer, works pretty good, we use it mostly for airing up lawnmower tires, but also have been using it to air up a slow leak on the work truck. cost like $150, but worth every dollar really.
they also sell a combo jump box and air compressor.
my p/s floor was getting wet. found a vid where the guy took the kick panel off ran a hose over the side of the windshield so the water ran down between the fender and body, then you could see the water pooling up on top of this foam inside the body hole at the kick panel. simply drill a clear...
so glad i can still do my own oil changes. 71 bucks seems like a lot to me. thats like double the cost of materials. and you know they pay less for everything vs buying it your self.
i use mobil one full syn 5-30. 25 bucks for a 5 qt jug at wally world. i end up buying 3 jugs to do my camaro...
usally the pedal is rock hard when the booster is bad. like when the truck is off, a few pumps and its rock hard. <<<<man that didnt come out right lol
if its short, to the fender. most of the time you drop these wires and they tend to drop back via their own memory pretty darn close to where they live.
i just run mobile one full synthetic in everything. its cheapest at walmart, at $25 for a 5 qt jug. i end up buying 3 of em a year. my hoe takes 6 qts and my camaro takes 8-9 qt's.
only abs codes are stored in a history, i know some of your normal scanners on some cars will read abs codes, but they cant clear or see the history of every code thats been set over time.
if a abs code comes back after clearing, its a actual fault. even if its not setting the abs or brake...
abs scanners are not cheap really. might be best to stop at a shop and ask if they can scan it for ya. dont be surprised if they want to charge you for the scan.
the few times i've need one the garage right across the street from me will just hand me his snap on scanner and let me have at it...
no codes with abs scanner? your normal scanner only shows P codes. abs codes are U codes, and are stored in a history part that the abs scanner can see. most of the time theres a boat load of codes in history, so you clear history, then drive and when it happens again, re scan and those are the...
best to start off with getting it scanned for abs codes, need a real scanner for that, but its way better then tossing cash and parts at it hoping its fixed.
things it could be, bad ground on the frame under the drivers foot area. or the abs pump module is broken. they are rebuildable even diy...
id run the tank down to E. gas is like 8 lbs a gallon. so easy 200 lbs in a full tank.
the lock ring for the fuel pump on top of the tank likes to rust away, then leak from the top of the fuel pump.
you'll notice no difference. but you'll have piece of mind that that oil in the can is not laying in your intake. mine is ran right off the top of the pcv valve, so what its catching is what would end up in the intake.
i put one on as well as many others have. i made the bracket and got a cheap can off amazon, 25 bucks at the time. if you get the cheap one, the hose they give you is trash, so you'll need to buy some real hose.
ive read the owners manual to learn how all that works, but really never used it. ive got a dvd player as well, have had the truck for 6 years and never even messed with it. manuals are free on line. mine was supposed to have two sets of head phones and a remote but i never got them things.
up front where the rear controls are, switch that one knob to aux iirc. then the rear panel should be able to control the ac temp fan speed and direction.
id change the front hoses, and if theres one in back to the rear end center.
if the master has ran dry good chance you pushed air into the abs pump, then you'll need a tech 2 scanner or snap on ect to bleed the brakes so the abs gets cleared out.
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