Ok i get the profit aspect but Who TF can ever feel that they are not being "shanked" by an estimate like that? i bought our denali from a land rover dealer right next to the GM dealer that had just performed $2600 worth of brake work and the original customer complaint was "alternator erratic...
tear yours down and diagnose it, then rebuild what you have. I'm having a hard time understanding $1200-$1500? yikes! gear set, bearings and install kit $500. It isn't brain surgery? either way salvage donor vehicles are old and run out, keep what you have and rebuild it.
Sorry, But I have to be the one who say's it. So you were in the back seat having a meeting with your avatar and your worried about the engine shutting off? LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't even want to know what you paid for these vehicles. We buy American vehicles because we like them, The manufacturer should like Americans who buy their vehicles, As opposed to beating them into submission and losing...
You are absolutely correct! The DENSO 6860 is rated to provide 220 amps, The DR-44 is rated to provide 160 amps. Some people like big tires, Others big horsepower or torque, Others big stereo's. Me I like big current! Lots and lots of available current. We live in the high desert and June...
In regard to your signature, I am honored to "war" for Christ and since America allows all faith's to worship freely it makes sense to "war" to protect that freedom.
Yes, I only want to increase the alternator speed. This is an effective modification even with the DR44 160 amp stock alternator. Only the high rpm builds are under driving at the crankshaft. IMO?
I am f'ing impressed!!! So many are apprehensive of differentials because of the pressing/measuring and you got through it with minimal setbacks and minimal tooling.:head3:
The vehicle thinks you are inside it, Simply get a piece of stiff coat hanger wire and gently pry the driver side door at the top open just enough to slide the wire down and press unlock on the door armrest. I think a good thief could do this in less than 30 seconds!
Actually it is the alternator pulley that I change, The OEM is 2.45 and the overdrive is 1.93. I advise this to just about anyone who wants more amps at idle. Will it wear the alt quicker? On paper yes as it spins faster but in reality the higher rpm increases the internal fan speed, Lowering...
Short version? OE 5/7 500 watt, Upgraded to 700 watt motors which can draw up to 55amps when they cycle from low to high, Thats a 110 amp draw and at idle with the alt below it's rated output rpm the fans cycled to high, the lights dimmed and the bose stereo "blanked out" no display and no...
I would not have thought that running the DERALE as a stand alone without the radiator in the circuit would have decreased its ability to control the trans temp? I stll have the radiator loop in my setup and felt i should have eliminated it. Maybe i should just leave it alone, I have been known...
Im coming in late on this conversation, My baffles are toast also and id like to simply replace with oem, Did you replace/repair/manufacture your replacements?
Your govlock is engaged somehow, pull the cover and spin the diff and see what is going wrong, Youll be on the road in a couple hours for the cost of some gear oil. The additive is a "friction modifier" not a locking mechanism and my opinion the additve is not the problem> so you have the EATON...
Im also in the bleeder screws frozen club, I did attempt to loosen them with pb blaster and got some "slight" movement but i knew any more applied torque would have snapped them. So your saying simply heat and spray pb blaster or kroil to cool them for a couple cycles and they should back out?
Might as well get the tech2, They are essential to diagnose "anything" and "everything" electrical on these vehicles. Congrats on the new Rig, They are "Road Limo's" by my definition.
Im in complete agreement with this post, pull a valve cover and rotate the crank pulley for/aft and look for excessive play watching valvetrain/lifter movement. If your cam chain is running without the tensioner/guide it would be noisy/sloppy/maybe even slapping on the cover?
Right or wrong about the lifter/exhaust leak i respect your "throwing caution to the wind" and taking the wife out for a ride into the "unknown" She must have a wild side to her also and it is theraputic to exercise our ability to say "F'it im in" and have the risk work out as yours did. What is...
Your not "messing" with viscosity or brands of oil in anyway are you? even if the filter were dry everything should pump up within seconds without any brand changes in filter/oil vis. I dont have the afm system but it sounds like one lifter is jammed in the ramp area and needs to be freed up...
If it were me, My first swap would be the "HI PERFORMANCE" springs for oem's. Eliminate the static downforce which is probably collapsing the lifters as it sits overnight. This can be done with the compressed air technique or a tried and proven method of bringing the piston up about two thirds...
just my opinion, Im an oem purist and feel that the majority of aftermarket "high performance" parts "CANT" duplicate the reliability/longevity of factory parts. Dont live with the sound of your valvetrain pounding the crap out of contact areas simply because that is "supposedly" how johnson...
If you had the trans repaired and upon "initial inspection" of the trans fluid by you it was "brown and burnt smelling" than dont allow your mech to touch anything more. Find a new mech as you have been ripped off! Dont get all pissed or anything, Just be more cautious with your next choice for...
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