tegimaster
TYF Newbie
This is my first post so I apologize if there's an answer for this elsewhere, I've just spent all day trying to resolve my issue and I'm at my wit's end.
Tl;dr at end.
Backstory:
My wife and I bought a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali a couple years ago. 151It died in the middle of its test drive which should've been our red flag but the dealer spent 2 weeks "having all the engine sensors replaced" and a 2nd test drive went without issue so we bought it anyways.
Since we started driving it home (4 hr trip) it's intermittently thrown "Service Traction Control/Service Stabilitrak" error codes on the dash. It also randomly throws a "Camshaft Position Sensor" check engine light code, but only when the other Stabilitrak light is active. If the Stabilitrak service light goes out long enough the check engine light goes out too.
I have replaced the entire rear air shock suspension system, cleaned the front engine compartment fuse box, and replaced the throttle position sensor, brake position sensor, brake light sensor, engine-to-frame ground strap, and about half the fuses in the 2 main fuse boxes. I have also replaced the O-Ring for the oil pick-up tube.
While driving I have noticed that the transmission shifts harder when the "Service Traction Control/Stabilitrak" light is on. Primarily it seems to the the 1-2 gear shift, but I am not 100% certain.
Today:
All of the switches on the driver's door quit working while running errands in town. When we got home I looked at the wires in the hinge and noticed the black one had been patched with a solder-less crimp connector and had broken at the edge of that connector.I disconnected the battery, cut the connector out, and soldered the wires together. When I re-connected the battery (it was maybe an hour due to multitasking) the dash errors were still present along with "Door Ajar" as I expected, but also "Park Assist Off."
I thought that was weird so I went to start it and the car wouldn't crank, start, or otherwise respond to my attempts to start. I thought maybe the trunk being open was a culprit but the trunk wouldn't close either.
I got my code reader (Not Tech2) and it said "U0140-00 Lost Communication With Body Control Module" which explains why it won't crank or anything.
I've seen lots of people posting similar issues, but only a few that I really felt was my issue. I suspect that somehow in fixing a wire for my driver's door and/or disconnecting and connecting the battery... I fried my BCM? I see a few who agree that this is a thing that can happen, but did it happen to me?
I traced fuses for the modules in question and replaced them all, removed my BCM, cleaned contacts, and re-connected. I unplugged my battery, touched the cables together, and let it sit for an hour. No change.
Attached are pictures of all error messages on my dash as well as my code reader.
Is it possible that I've missed something in my troubleshooting?
D I have to replace my BCM? If that's the case I'm in for a treat because the closest GM dealer is ~2 hours away and I'm too poor to have the car towed to say the least about dealer fees for that sort of work.
I've seen posts and talk about buying used/aftermarket BCMs and flashing it at home, but I also see people saying that it doesn't work anymore.
TL:dr:
Poor man solders broken wire in driver's door of '07 Yukon XL Denali and fries BCM? Too poor for very distant dealer to fix. Help!
Tl;dr at end.
Backstory:
My wife and I bought a 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali a couple years ago. 151It died in the middle of its test drive which should've been our red flag but the dealer spent 2 weeks "having all the engine sensors replaced" and a 2nd test drive went without issue so we bought it anyways.
Since we started driving it home (4 hr trip) it's intermittently thrown "Service Traction Control/Service Stabilitrak" error codes on the dash. It also randomly throws a "Camshaft Position Sensor" check engine light code, but only when the other Stabilitrak light is active. If the Stabilitrak service light goes out long enough the check engine light goes out too.
I have replaced the entire rear air shock suspension system, cleaned the front engine compartment fuse box, and replaced the throttle position sensor, brake position sensor, brake light sensor, engine-to-frame ground strap, and about half the fuses in the 2 main fuse boxes. I have also replaced the O-Ring for the oil pick-up tube.
While driving I have noticed that the transmission shifts harder when the "Service Traction Control/Stabilitrak" light is on. Primarily it seems to the the 1-2 gear shift, but I am not 100% certain.
Today:
All of the switches on the driver's door quit working while running errands in town. When we got home I looked at the wires in the hinge and noticed the black one had been patched with a solder-less crimp connector and had broken at the edge of that connector.I disconnected the battery, cut the connector out, and soldered the wires together. When I re-connected the battery (it was maybe an hour due to multitasking) the dash errors were still present along with "Door Ajar" as I expected, but also "Park Assist Off."
I thought that was weird so I went to start it and the car wouldn't crank, start, or otherwise respond to my attempts to start. I thought maybe the trunk being open was a culprit but the trunk wouldn't close either.
I got my code reader (Not Tech2) and it said "U0140-00 Lost Communication With Body Control Module" which explains why it won't crank or anything.
I've seen lots of people posting similar issues, but only a few that I really felt was my issue. I suspect that somehow in fixing a wire for my driver's door and/or disconnecting and connecting the battery... I fried my BCM? I see a few who agree that this is a thing that can happen, but did it happen to me?
I traced fuses for the modules in question and replaced them all, removed my BCM, cleaned contacts, and re-connected. I unplugged my battery, touched the cables together, and let it sit for an hour. No change.
Attached are pictures of all error messages on my dash as well as my code reader.
Is it possible that I've missed something in my troubleshooting?
D I have to replace my BCM? If that's the case I'm in for a treat because the closest GM dealer is ~2 hours away and I'm too poor to have the car towed to say the least about dealer fees for that sort of work.
I've seen posts and talk about buying used/aftermarket BCMs and flashing it at home, but I also see people saying that it doesn't work anymore.
TL:dr:
Poor man solders broken wire in driver's door of '07 Yukon XL Denali and fries BCM? Too poor for very distant dealer to fix. Help!