08 Denali lowering questions...

[livingez_123]

Well after all this time of my parts collecting dust, I finally started the install. The rear took about 4 hours with the DJM kit and belltech springs and shocks. I also did the free travel mod. I started the front on Sunday and after 2hrs I got sick with diabetic issues. So here is Tuesday and I have one side done but that was enough. I will finish the front tomorrow and then soldier in my resistors.
The only question I have is about the level ride sensors, I forgot to mark the stock position. Does it even matter since I will be putting air lift bags in and removing the compressor?

 

[iamdub]

Well after all this time of my parts collecting dust, I finally started the install. The rear took about 4 hours with the DJM kit and belltech springs and shocks. I also did the free travel mod. I started the front on Sunday and after 2hrs I got sick with diabetic issues. So here is Tuesday and I have one side done but that was enough. I will finish the front tomorrow and then soldier in my resistors.
The only question I have is about the level ride sensors, I forgot to mark the stock position. Does it even matter since I will be putting air lift bags in and removing the compressor?

Kinda, kinda not. The thing is, the suspension controller will be seeing the drop and trying a lot more often to correct it. Meaning, them resistors will be seeing more voltage and a lot more often. Did you measure each corner before dropping it? You could jack it up to that point, mark the sensors, remove the jack and drive it around to settle the suspension. Then, make new links to align the marks on the sensors to the pre-drop positions.

 

[livingez_123]

I guess I don't fully understand the system. Since the RTD fuse will be pulled will the level ride sensors even be active? Can I just put them in a midway travel position and fix then in place? Or maybe put resistors in place of them?

 

[iamdub]

I guess I don't fully understand the system. Since the RTD fuse will be pulled will the level ride sensors even be active? Can I just put them in a midway travel position and fix then in place? Or maybe put resistors in place of them?

The level sensors are used by the RTD, ALC, and StabiliTrak systems. You can disable the RTD and ALC systems but the sensors are still active for StabiliTrak, which you can't easily permanently disable without leaving your dash lit up and getting constant warning chimes. Yes, for normal driving, the RTD system won't be trying to adjust the shocks. But if you take a corner too fast, hit some sand or loose rocks in the road, a puddle or anything that would activate the StabiliTrak system (it happens more often than you may realize), it's gonna juice up them resistors.

Midway might be acceptable. Go for it. Worst that could happen is the resistors don't last as long. They're what- $10 for a pack of five on Amazon?

Oh- another option: If you know someone with a Tech2, you could move the sensors until they show "0" and make links to put them at those positions.

 

[livingez_123]

The level sensors are used by the RTD, ALC, and StabiliTrak systems. You can disable the RTD and ALC systems but the sensors are still active for StabiliTrak, which you can't easily permanently disable without leaving your dash lit up and getting constant warning chimes. Yes, for normal driving, the RTD system won't be trying to adjust the shocks. But if you take a corner too fast, hit some sand or loose rocks in the road, a puddle or anything that would activate the StabiliTrak system (it happens more often than you may realize), it's gonna juice up them resistors.

Midway might be acceptable. Go for it. Worst that could happen is the resistors don't last as long. They're what- $10 for a pack of five on Amazon?

Oh- another option: If you know someone with a Tech2, you could move the sensors until they show "0" and make links to put them at those positions.

I wish my HP tuner could get into the system so I could just turn it off. Any idea where to get new socket ends for the sensors? I broke one...or two

 

[iamdub]

I wish my HP tuner could get into the system so I could just turn it off. Any idea where to get new socket ends for the sensors? I broke one...or two

Oof.

Here's a Dorman one. If you only need two ends, you could get one link and strip it of the ends. But, it doesn't look like these ends might not pull off. Maybe OEM ones for an '08 would? The ones on my Tahoe did. You might wanna fact-check this, but it looks like the GM OE parts numbers are 22189721 for the front and 22189722 for the rear. I'm pretty sure the only difference is the link bar length.

ORRRR... for about the same price, these are sexy and might can be retrofitted. Here's a pair of 'em for $25.79.

 

[livingez_123]

Now with the ride sensor rods taken care of, the fronts are too short to allow the suspension to fully drop when jacking it up. The rears I shortened 1" and the front 1¼".

Why did GM make the suv ½" lower on the drivers side?
What is the logical explanation?

 

[livingez_123]

Well I have been chasing my tail trying to get rid of my ½" lean to the drivers side. I tried different amount of spacers and isolaters on the rear. I tried to drop the right rear to get the left front up and multiple other things, and the closest I can get it is ⅜" in the rear and still a bit over ½" in the front. It's very noticeable and it's pissing me off. I have even tried to pre-load my rear sway bar but no effect...didn't think it would but is was worth a try. What it comes down to is the installed height of the front springs. I measured with it on the ground fully settled and the right spring has ½" more length. Now with BT struts I tried taking one ring out of the passenger side and it went down alright but the drivers side went down too!
With 3 rings on each strut the left was 9' and the right was 9½" I measured all of my suspension pickup points with the frame level on stands and it's within ⅛" which is nothing on a suv chassis. I hope it's something simple as mismatched springs. So any suggestions on a good front spring to try? Preferably 1" drop

 

[iamdub]

Now with the ride sensor rods taken care of, the fronts are too short to allow the suspension to fully drop when jacking it up. The rears I shortened 1" and the front 1¼".

Why did GM make the suv ½" lower on the drivers side?
What is the logical explanation?

I missed this question.

There are a handful of theories floating around as this has been a "thing" for decades. The one I've bought is that it's not actually engineered into, but a result of the design. There's more weight on the driver side- the driver, the steering gear, the fuel tank and, if 4WD/AWD, that running gear. Never mind if the driver is a big 'ol boy, helping to beat down those springs for 100K+ miles. I guess they figured it wasn't enough to bother adjusting for. They even have different caster alignment specs for the left side.

 

[iamdub]

Well I have been chasing my tail trying to get rid of my ½" lean to the drivers side. I tried different amount of spacers and isolaters on the rear. I tried to drop the right rear to get the left front up and multiple other things, and the closest I can get it is ⅜" in the rear and still a bit over ½" in the front. It's very noticeable and it's pissing me off. I have even tried to pre-load my rear sway bar but no effect...didn't think it would but is was worth a try. What it comes down to is the installed height of the front springs. I measured with it on the ground fully settled and the right spring has ½" more length. Now with BT struts I tried taking one ring out of the passenger side and it went down alright but the drivers side went down too!
With 3 rings on each strut the left was 9' and the right was 9½" I measured all of my suspension pickup points with the frame level on stands and it's within ⅛" which is nothing on a suv chassis. I hope it's something simple as mismatched springs. So any suggestions on a good front spring to try? Preferably 1" drop

Lifting one side will have more of an effect than lowering the other side to "pull" the other up. It's not like there's a fulcrum point positioned somewhere in the center of the vehicle at its roll centers that it will evenly pivot on, like a see-saw. The constant that effects the entire vehicle is gravity and that's pulling down on the whole thing. Pulling down more on one corner to lift the other will bring the other down some as well because they are connected via the frame, sway bars, etc. What you gotta do is lift the low side as this overcomes gravity (up versus down). Something that will overcome gravity is a spacer as it actively braces/reinforces against gravity. Yes, some of the lift will transfer to the other corners. But, it's less effect going that way versus the opposite.

Surely your springs are worn some, and worn unevenly, at that, due to the years and miles of the extra weight on them. You could get new springs then adjust from there. Or, at a labor-only cost, swap your left and right struts then adjust from there.