swathdiver
Full Access Member
Even better! So in the end your original u-joints worked right? Is ours a 1350?
10 bolt to 14 Bolt, 9.5 sf swap
- Thread starter randeez
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
well... mine is 
might be a 6.2 thing
might be a 6.2 thing
swathdiver
Full Access Member
It's a AWD/4WD thing! Yeah, they are the same. the U-joints anyway, haven't verified all the other parts yet.
They are 1350s, 5-178X or 5-1350X (solid non-greaseable) and the GM number is 89059111 (solid non-greaseable).
They are 1350s, 5-178X or 5-1350X (solid non-greaseable) and the GM number is 89059111 (solid non-greaseable).
Last edited:
67RS427
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2017
- Posts
- 595
- Reaction score
- 1,217
So now I'm curious as I will be needing a Eaton Posi to replace the G80 in my 10 bolt with 160k miles. How much power are you making? I also want to keep AWD and was planning on rebuilding my BW4485 transfer case... I'm currently rebuilding my front diff and was going to leave the 10 bolt until it blows up. I like the idea of the 14 bolt swap. Have you determined if the spoon adjustable panhard bar will fit yet? Looking good man, I will definitely be going the same route on my 2007...
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
On awd dyno...north of 400 hp/tq...6l80 doesn't have a 1:1 gear tho, and didn't lock converter
Using 1/4mile trap speed and weight calc about 460ish hp
Spoon bar works with stock 14b cover, the other should be here early next week.
Using 1/4mile trap speed and weight calc about 460ish hp
Spoon bar works with stock 14b cover, the other should be here early next week.
67RS427
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2017
- Posts
- 595
- Reaction score
- 1,217
Nice! I'm gonna be in the 850hp range @ the crank so I think a 14bolt is a no brainer lol... How different is the driveshaft length? I'm about to order custom driveshafts and don't wanna have to do it twice. I'm kind of surprised the spoon bar fits with the tight fit on the 10 bolt already. Good luck fitting the aftermarket cover, let us know how that works...
What are you running for a center section? Posi or TruTrac?
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
Yea, you're prob a good candidate for it
.Did it with plans for more power in the future, need to take care of a few things first.
stock g80 in there for now
Stock driveshaft works , going to drive it around let suspension settle and see how in the transfer case it is now, measured it's about half inch closer.
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
wasn't paying attention when we threw drive shaft back in....
driveshaft does go back into the transfer case 1/2-3/4"further, on mine that part of the shaft was covered in surface rust so after a few days it started leaking fluid while driving, not terribly, but it was all over the under side. short term pulled DS back out and cleaned it up, replaced the seal, and took a few measurements to order one.
also as it sits the drive shaft still has a little less than an inch before it bottoms out on the output shaft.
I did receive the PML cover, still trying to find panhard bar alternative (see pic of clearance), came with hardware but socket cap bolts are just zinc plated steel, and stainless washers. I ordered the same socket cap bolts in stainless:
-QA-1 bar, shows years 00-06? dont know if same length and kicks out at the cover, but not adjustable.
- go lower, the rear end pulls forward with the 4 link and may be enough to clear, but it would probably bug me not to have wheel centered adjustable 4link bars would put me right back where i am.
- stock bar - no adjustment but would probably clear.
- leave stock cover, keep adjustable spoon bar
driveshaft does go back into the transfer case 1/2-3/4"further, on mine that part of the shaft was covered in surface rust so after a few days it started leaking fluid while driving, not terribly, but it was all over the under side. short term pulled DS back out and cleaned it up, replaced the seal, and took a few measurements to order one.
also as it sits the drive shaft still has a little less than an inch before it bottoms out on the output shaft.
I did receive the PML cover, still trying to find panhard bar alternative (see pic of clearance), came with hardware but socket cap bolts are just zinc plated steel, and stainless washers. I ordered the same socket cap bolts in stainless:
-QA-1 bar, shows years 00-06? dont know if same length and kicks out at the cover, but not adjustable.
- go lower, the rear end pulls forward with the 4 link and may be enough to clear, but it would probably bug me not to have wheel centered adjustable 4link bars would put me right back where i am.
- stock bar - no adjustment but would probably clear.
- leave stock cover, keep adjustable spoon bar
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
Soooo since the 14 bolt swap went so well.... I ordered an 9.25 ifs
Why- a little bit of why not, but also am having to replace an outer bearing on my 8.25ifs, no lsd/locker available for 8.25, want to regear anyway....
The older 9.25ifs mounting points were off from their 8.25 counterparts and cast into the aluminum housing. Top ear had to be cut and relocated, etc etc.
Gmt900 1500 8.25 ifs has the two mounting bolts on the long stub shaft ( passenger side same as before) but it uses a bracket that bolts to two holes above the driverside stub shaft. Looking at the 2500/3500 9.25 ifs from 2011+ it mounts in the same fashion. I'm hoping/betting it mounts the same or possibly the brackets can be interchanged to work.
The newer 9.25 ifs is no longer a cast aluminum center chunk, without all the ribbing needed for strength I'm hoping it's size isn't much larger than the 8.25. I will confirm when I have the axle in hand and measure up mounting mounts.
IF (when) all that goes as smooth as I know it will
Axles will be the major hold up, I have a few ideas tho.
Why- a little bit of why not, but also am having to replace an outer bearing on my 8.25ifs, no lsd/locker available for 8.25, want to regear anyway....
The older 9.25ifs mounting points were off from their 8.25 counterparts and cast into the aluminum housing. Top ear had to be cut and relocated, etc etc.
Gmt900 1500 8.25 ifs has the two mounting bolts on the long stub shaft ( passenger side same as before) but it uses a bracket that bolts to two holes above the driverside stub shaft. Looking at the 2500/3500 9.25 ifs from 2011+ it mounts in the same fashion. I'm hoping/betting it mounts the same or possibly the brackets can be interchanged to work.
The newer 9.25 ifs is no longer a cast aluminum center chunk, without all the ribbing needed for strength I'm hoping it's size isn't much larger than the 8.25. I will confirm when I have the axle in hand and measure up mounting mounts.
IF (when) all that goes as smooth as I know it will
Axles will be the major hold up, I have a few ideas tho.
Last edited:
OP
OP
randeez
Full Access Member
Last edited:
