2001 Tahoe..Only 6 volts at battery - No power - No start

[kirkh34]

The battery is about a year old. I ran new ground cables to the frame and even one from the starter itself to the frame. Now the voltage is 0.0-0.1 on ground. Still the same issue with clicking. I'm wondering if my engine completely seized up. I'm trying to turn it by hand with a wrench but cannot budge it. Does anyone know if these can be turned by hand and clockwise or counter-clockwise?

 

[OR VietVet]

A year old battery does not mean a good battery. Plus, those cables are suspect. Plus, you are not going to turn the engine over with a wrench. Maybe a socket and ratchet. Remove some easy to get at plugs and then try it. With plugs out there would be no compression on those cylinders.

 

[drakon543]

ok hold up im starting to get confused and this conversation seems to be going in circles with key statements are either being forgotten for something. right after my first post on this thread you said you grounded the starter directly and the starter worked. im assuming the truck actually started at that point but went back to no starting when you removed the makeshift ground. another poster seemed to suggest they assumed you removed the starter for that test but you never lead to that. have you actually removed the whole starter or have you just been messing with the cables. also let me jump back a bit and ask for more details on how your actually connecting your meter for the electrical tests and your jumper test. if you just not testing it correctly your definitely going to see 0-.7 as you described. the starter is only going to pass a readable voltage while someone is actually trying to start the truck. you also said the battery is charged but didn't specify what the charged reading was. depending on the battery charger you using the charger wont realize it charging a 6 cell 12v battery. it will just continue charging until the battery stops taking a charge and calls it good. so with your battery fully charged without connected to the vehicle what does it read. next back to the question about how your testing the starter and another poster who assumed you removed the starter. if you removed the starter and tested it without a load as stated by a previous poster doesn't mean the starter is good. after testing to make sure the battery reads slightly higher than 12v maybe 12.5?? hook the battery back up hook your volt meter back t
up directly to the battery and have someone try to start it as you watch the meter. lastly going from a simple no start to a siezed engine is a pretty big jump. do you have anymore information that you haven't told us that would lead you to that thought. did something happen prior to this? engines generally dont seize without and serious warning signs.

 

[kirkh34]

Sorry for the confusion. I was testing the voltage across the negative battery terminal and other ground like the alternator and body. Since I've run new grounds, the voltage has been good (0.0 - 0.1). I had removed the starter completely and had it hooked up but ran my own ground to the case and turned the key.. The starter spun so I figured it was okay. I have taken it back off and I had it tested and the girl at autozone said it was bad so I bought a new one. I also replaced my battery. The problem still exists. I thought I had tested the voltage correctly. I am getting good voltage at the starter but on the solenoid when cranking I am only getting 6-7 volts. All fuses are good from checking before or I'd assume I'd have no power at all. I'm trying to figure out where this wire leads back to the fusebox at this point.

Also, I talked to my brother last night about what exactly was happening with him. He had no power at all. It never had died while driving. He had no power and wiggled cables and it came back on. I was driving and the engine stopped and I still had power and just a click from the starter. I'm trying to put together why the vehicle stopped the way it did unless it was two things at once which is possible.

 

[OR VietVet]

If you have only 6-7 volts at the starter solenoid then you have a problem. Voltage drop problem. Did you charge the new battery before install?

 

[kirkh34]

The battery has 12.7 volts. I am not understanding whats happening... I tested the voltage at the starter solenoid while cranking and got 6-7 volts. I took off the starter and just tested the wire itself while cranking and now it says 12.x volts.

 

[OR VietVet]

I am talking about the battery cable and not a small wire. Corrosion builds up under the insulation over time and creates resistance to voltage current flow. Now if you are measuring at a wire and getting only 6-7 volts at the starter, that could be a problem with the ignition switch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3867534&cc=1371620&jsn=2271

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=335675&cc=1371620&jsn=2343


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[kirkh34]

Thank you for clarification I put my vehicle info below but for some reason cannot attach an image of my codes. I found the purple wire coming from the fuse box that leads to the starter solenoid. I probed it and measured the voltage at that point and there was still 7 volts when cranking. I did some research on the ignition switch and I did not realize that a faulty switch could cause the vehicle to stop while driving. The symptoms all match up to what I am experiencing. I think i may have jumped the gun going off of what I knew about my brothers experience and when down the wrong rabbit hole. Kicking myself a little for an unnecessary replacement of the starter and battery. Looks like I will be on the hunt for a new ignition switch and see. Is there anyway to bypass this and see if it is in fact the culprit?

 

[OR VietVet]

I hope that is it. Sounds like a real cluster **** of a problem and a PITA!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I had a similar problem with my 1997 Yukon (RIP), in that from time to time, the engine simply would not start, when I turned the ignition switch to the start position. I did not even get a click from the starter solenoid. Eventually it stopped starting completely. After replacing the ignition switch, the problem disappeared forever.