2002 5.3 Crank appears to wobble at idle

[2006Tahoe2WD]

okay - Took the measurements. Radial runout 0.023", Spec. is 0.40mm (0.0157")
I have a bunch of pictures if anyone is interested. My mag. base for dial indicator worked perfectly.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

In case pictures and diagram are wanted or not.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

Anyone want to confirm the correct process for replacing the HB? I'm planning to have the mechanic take this one out and put in a Fluidxxxxx.

Process:
1- remove existing/old bolt
2 - pull damper off with proper pull tool
3 - remove and install and pre-lube new seal
4 - lube crank and ID of new damper
5 - lock flywheel
6 - use install tool to pull damper completely on
7 - Install OLD bolt and torque to 240 ft lbs
8 - remove OLD bolt and install new bolt to torque 37 ft lbs
9 - torque an additional 140 degrees
Done

 

[strutaeng]

Anyone want to confirm the correct process for replacing the HB? I'm planning to have the mechanic take this one out and put in a Fluidxxxxx.

Process:
1- remove existing/old bolt
2 - pull damper off with proper pull tool
3 - remove and install and pre-lube new seal
4 - lube crank and ID of new damper
5 - lock flywheel
6 - use install tool to pull damper completely on
7 - Install OLD bolt and torque to 240 ft lbs
8 - remove OLD bolt and install new bolt to torque 37 ft lbs
9 - torque an additional 140 degrees
Done

That's the correct procedure. After Step 7 you are supposed to check the measurement between the pulley where the bolt mates and the crankshaft snout.

The 240 ft-lb and 140 degrees tightening is a bear. I just installed mine on an engine I have in a stand. My 24" digital torque wrench was 24" too short! LoL

"Maybe" you should consider replacing the front cover seal(?) But your engine looks pretty clean. Maybe not?

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

That's the correct procedure. After Step 7 you are supposed to check the measurement between the pulley where the bolt mates and the crankshaft snout.

The 240 ft-lb and 140 degrees tightening is a bear. I just installed mine on an engine I have in a stand. My 24" digital torque wrench was 24" too short! LoL

"Maybe" you should consider replacing the front cover seal(?) But your engine looks pretty clean. Maybe not?

Thanks. I'll check with the mechanic to see if he agrees with this procedure. I hope he doesn't get pissed at me. He may have done this last time - I was watching but I didn't know this procedure at the time. Touchy situation.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

Yes, I see on Youtube the effort it takes to get the 140 degrees. I don't have a lift so I don't think I can make it happen in my driveway on jack stands.

 

[Fless]

I believe that ARP makes a reusable (non TTY) bolt for this, just torque and no angle setting after the torque.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

I believe that ARP makes a reusable (non TTY) bolt for this, just torque and no angle setting after the torque.

Good point, yes they do. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he would prefer that. It's about $50. He will need the correct type of socket.

 

[strutaeng]

Good point, yes they do. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he would prefer that. It's about $50. He will need the correct type of socket.

https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/234-2503.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/ARP-234-2503-Balancer-Bolt-Kit/dp/B0785P5L8M

ARP 234-2503 ARP Balancer Bolts | Summit Racing

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Actually better price at Summit. Looks like 235 lb-ft torque. Is this the thread we were talking about how tight this thing are and they are not keyed?

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

Yes, that's the bolt (better price) and from many accounts it is not keyed. I'm thinking the ARP bolt has a higher yield point that doesn't require it to be a one use bolt.