2002 Tahoe..Help with rotational whirring.

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cam3439

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For the transfer case, have you checked it for any leaks and fill level?

I just went to inspect a 2006 Silverado for a buddy that lives out of town. The 4LO was stated as not working. I would try to engage it and you could hear the motor attempting to lock in, but you’d hear some grinding. I checked the transfer case and it had signs of oil leaks. Checked the fill, and I couldn’t reach the oil with my finger. The transfer case needs to be replaced on that rig.

I don’t know how common this is, but there’s a known issue called ‘pump rub failure.’ Google it for your rig and you’ll see what I’m talking about.

Do you have any signs of oil leaks coming from the differentials?

You may need to safely jack up all 4 corners and let it idle in gear to find the issue. A mechanic’s stethoscope would help here If needed and they’re fairly cheap.

Also, just because a component has been replaced or repaired, it doesn’t mean we can rule it out without inspection. My gf’s 2014 mustang went through 3 front hub assemblies within her warranty period.
 
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oldchev

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Maybe I missed this, but has the noise grown gradually worse over time?
Yes, new or rebuilt replacement parts can be bad but not likely right from the start.
Hubs a year ago no change, another (rebuilt?) front diff, new axles, no help...to me its a rotational sound not u joints, sounds like a bearing or even a rubbing metallic sound. It seems it makes the sound straight also?
Maybe the mechanic shop to go to would be a off road 4 wheel drive shop. They're used to vehicles with abuse, hence problems.
I would throw no more parts at the problem. A drive train specialist can diagnose the problem. Not all mechanics are created equal.

Keep us posted. Helps others.
 
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raptorred

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Hey everyone, I have an update!

I had the mechanic take another look at the 'Hoe and check wheel bearings along with rear differential.
Wheel bearings were all good. He took the cap off the rear differential and sent me a picture. Spider gears, ring and pinion were all chewed up. Gears had pitting and some were sheared off.
They replaced the rear differential and now the sound is gone.
I will try to include a picture of the inside of the rear diff.
Thanks everyone for your help!
IMG_5746.JPG
 

AL Yeager

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02 Tahoe 5.3L vortec
195K miles

Heres the video of me driving around the block. the sound is most obvious at 30mph or below. Just had front diff and axle arm assemblies replaced. Front hub assemblies replaced a year ago. New tires put on a year ago, noise didnt change. I have not had a tire balance done. The mechanic is telling me he thinks i need a new transfer case, but it sounds like a wheel bearing to me...? Would think that would be the first thing they would have checked also though.
What do you guys think?

Thank you for checking it out. I dont have thousands of dollars to throw it a noise, and I have 2 very young kids I have to drive around. I depend on this car.

Autumn
 

AL Yeager

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I've had issues like that found the front wheel bearing were the issue. Have you picked up one at a time the front wheels ans spun them and listen for noise and check for play? oops, I should read the complete thread. I'm glad you found it. I herd the G80 rears are problematic. When mine goes up going to a locking differential.
 

Douglas Friedberg

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

I agree with Wade. That noise sounds like a wheel bearing or maybe, just maybe, a cv joint. Qualified tech inspection is needed before it leaves you stranded.


Have the same noise i believe transfer case noise traveling through drive shaft and makes it seem like rear axle bearings Not so i changed axle bearings and that noise is still there not rer end or pioion bearings either. G80 differencial 2006 yukon rear end oil free of any dibris of metal.
I believe transfer case noises. Iam draining oil tomorrow from transfer case and see what i got 240,000 miles on mine. be advised removing C clips become hairy on vehicles with this kind of milage as burs build up on axle spline shaft where c clips ride and will not allow axle to get removed. you need a 5 foot pry bar to get burrs past side gears to remove axles fom rear end. also pushing axle in to remove c clips get rather hard as ABS boot inside axle tube resists axle to get push in making removing C clips impossible. What you have to do to remove axle c clips is use a 10 inch C clamp from behine backing plate and push axle flange inward with pressure and hold it there to remove C clips. Caution with c clamp usage you can push axle to far and still not get c clip out so caution on how much you apply pressure. On high mileage vehicles there will be burrs on axles so when you get them out hand file or stone them burrs down so next time will be easier. You cant get this info anywhere i have visited on this great have visted internet knowledge of thirst. Even techs. i believe the reason for that is they havent worked on vehicles with this kind of long term mileage on them creating problems they have no knowledge of. Back to the noise as i was under truck turning driveshaft a bad noise alerted my hearing coming from the transfer case. I started looking for transfer case problems and found your web site best i seen so far so congrads people on job well done.
I use my truck to tow my race car to the drag strip so iam no dummy at this type of work but always learning the new. New to me as i closed my shop years ago and stop keeping up with the 1999 on up.

Douglas
 

corvette744

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I would go back to your reputable mechanic and tell him he is an idiot.If the tahoe was in the air in 4 wd in gear at idle and with someone giving it some gas.All you needed was a stethoscope to listen to the t case-rear end or hubs and could of found the location in 5 minutes.Even an average mechanic should of found that out.Time to stick with the mechanic that found the problem.
 

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