2002 Yukon, 140k miles, Fixing up over time
- Thread starter tgui
- Start date
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Impact wrench was too weak so I had to use breaker bars to set the preload. I jammed a breaker bar in the yoke and used another to adjust the nut. Those new crush washers are no joke. You better have a serious impact wrench if you don't want to do what I did. I was a little under on the preload reading, about 13in-lb. I didn't trust I could control the breaker bar for small increments of increased preload. I *think* I'll be OK.
Checked the gear mesh. I used the stock pinion shim and was careful not to mess with the carrier bearing adjusters. I probably didn't need to check the pattern but wanted the peace of mind. From my reading, the biggest thing to ensure is that the wear marks are in the middle of the tooth, which was what I see.
Back together. I hope it works OK!
Checked the gear mesh. I used the stock pinion shim and was careful not to mess with the carrier bearing adjusters. I probably didn't need to check the pattern but wanted the peace of mind. From my reading, the biggest thing to ensure is that the wear marks are in the middle of the tooth, which was what I see.
Back together. I hope it works OK!
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(btw, I cleaned some of that anerobic sealant off in the above pic)
She drives!
I need to find a dirt road to give 4x4 a shot, but other than that all signs point to things being OK. I sure a shit learned a ton. I also learned I hate man handling a 80lb chunk of metal out of and into a truck while on my back. Especially one that needs to be put in place like a goddamn game of 3D Tetris!!!! 
So now my truck makes better noises. I do my best to get used to the sounds my cars make. After a few miles of listening I have two conclusions.
1) What I thought were wheel bearings making noise appears to have been the bad bearings in the front diff. The scraping metal noise seems to be gone now. I don't mind having new wheel bearings though!
2) The vibration I feel at my feet @ 35mph or 1.2k RPM is still there and so probably wasn't the diff. I've replaced all u-joints as well. After reading it seems there can be an exhaust or driveshaft harmonic resonance. It appears to be a common issue that plagues a ton of GM owners. Time to dig.
Whats next? I'm thinking the rusty brake lines need some serious TLC. I think stopping is an important thing!
She drives!
I need to find a dirt road to give 4x4 a shot, but other than that all signs point to things being OK. I sure a shit learned a ton. I also learned I hate man handling a 80lb chunk of metal out of and into a truck while on my back. Especially one that needs to be put in place like a goddamn game of 3D Tetris!!!! So now my truck makes better noises. I do my best to get used to the sounds my cars make. After a few miles of listening I have two conclusions.
1) What I thought were wheel bearings making noise appears to have been the bad bearings in the front diff. The scraping metal noise seems to be gone now. I don't mind having new wheel bearings though!
2) The vibration I feel at my feet @ 35mph or 1.2k RPM is still there and so probably wasn't the diff. I've replaced all u-joints as well. After reading it seems there can be an exhaust or driveshaft harmonic resonance. It appears to be a common issue that plagues a ton of GM owners. Time to dig.
Whats next? I'm thinking the rusty brake lines need some serious TLC. I think stopping is an important thing!
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A post talking about the vibration I'm seeing.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/technical-maintenance/240794-bad-vibration-various-speeds-all-around-1100-rpm-help.html
Another:
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/157796-vibration-in-floorboard-not-speedtire-related/
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/technical-maintenance/240794-bad-vibration-various-speeds-all-around-1100-rpm-help.html
Another:
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/157796-vibration-in-floorboard-not-speedtire-related/
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New parts on the way. This is to fix the transfer case pump rub issue and stop any future hole forming and subsequent transfer case destruction.
Remember people, your transfer case is always active when driving even if you're not in 4x4 mode! Same for AWD models. $80 insurance or $1300 for a replacement?!
Remember people, your transfer case is always active when driving even if you're not in 4x4 mode! Same for AWD models. $80 insurance or $1300 for a replacement?!
So I learned a ton and am not done after a f-up working on the transfer case the first time.
Got it out and open. Use a goddamn floor jack. I thought I would be a badass and just bench press it down. Ouch, its more awkward than heavy. Oh, and be extra sure that all wires are disconnected! Also when opening the case the output shaft ring clip is a *****. Open up ring, tug up on case until the ring slides off the back of its groove. THEN through the speed sensor holes one at a time use a screw driver to pry down on the gear to get the case moving. Always be pulling up. It will release eventually.
Remove a clip and the speed sensor gear, gear, bearing and pump come off the shaft. Not hard. Here is where I added the Merchant Auto pump rub kit. Get a good T15 torx. My crappy chinese bit bent with little torque when tightening to 80 in-lbs and stripped a screw head. Luckily it was torqued enough before stripping.
I put it all back together, mounted back in truck and went for a test drive. NO BUENO!!! I got a really nasty whine once I hit about 15mph. I whipped back around and parked it in the garage. With the rear wheels off the ground I got the wife to put it in gear while I searched for the sound. It was the goddamn transfer case. This was an easy job, what could go wrong?!
Learn from me....
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SPEED SENSORS! THREAD SPEED SENSORS WHILE CASE IS OPEN, APPLY LATERAL FORCE TO SHAFT WHILE ROTATING TO ENSURE SPEED SENSORS DON'T TOUCH SENSOR GEARS!!!! Mother-effer... what an idiot.
What I was hearing was speed sensors rubbing and grinding away. I had to pull it all out again, open it up and prepare for more parts. On top of new speed sensors I decided for a full rebuild because I figured at about 150K miles it was due. I ordered a ton of new parts before really taking a good look. Lucky for me the bearings and seals look good. I also found the clutch pack to be in awesome condition. I think I'll just box up the rebuild parts for the future.
I'll still do a new chain.
Clutch pack rings all had lots of friction material and no signs of over heating.
Also a new filter at the end of the oil pick up.
I hope to be on the road again soon.
Three more things.
1) Use blue locktite on the transfer case bolts.
2) Apply a THIN bead of sealant when sealing the case. You can easily clog the filter at the end of the pick up tube and starve everything of lubricant.
3) I was stupid again and totally forgot blue loctite when bolting the transfer case to the trans the first time. The paper gasket between transfer case and trans can compress a bit over time and give non-loctite nuts a chance to fall off.
Got it out and open. Use a goddamn floor jack. I thought I would be a badass and just bench press it down. Ouch, its more awkward than heavy. Oh, and be extra sure that all wires are disconnected! Also when opening the case the output shaft ring clip is a *****. Open up ring, tug up on case until the ring slides off the back of its groove. THEN through the speed sensor holes one at a time use a screw driver to pry down on the gear to get the case moving. Always be pulling up. It will release eventually.
Remove a clip and the speed sensor gear, gear, bearing and pump come off the shaft. Not hard. Here is where I added the Merchant Auto pump rub kit. Get a good T15 torx. My crappy chinese bit bent with little torque when tightening to 80 in-lbs and stripped a screw head. Luckily it was torqued enough before stripping.
I put it all back together, mounted back in truck and went for a test drive. NO BUENO!!! I got a really nasty whine once I hit about 15mph. I whipped back around and parked it in the garage. With the rear wheels off the ground I got the wife to put it in gear while I searched for the sound. It was the goddamn transfer case. This was an easy job, what could go wrong?!
Learn from me....
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SPEED SENSORS! THREAD SPEED SENSORS WHILE CASE IS OPEN, APPLY LATERAL FORCE TO SHAFT WHILE ROTATING TO ENSURE SPEED SENSORS DON'T TOUCH SENSOR GEARS!!!! Mother-effer... what an idiot.
What I was hearing was speed sensors rubbing and grinding away. I had to pull it all out again, open it up and prepare for more parts. On top of new speed sensors I decided for a full rebuild because I figured at about 150K miles it was due. I ordered a ton of new parts before really taking a good look. Lucky for me the bearings and seals look good. I also found the clutch pack to be in awesome condition. I think I'll just box up the rebuild parts for the future.
I'll still do a new chain.
Clutch pack rings all had lots of friction material and no signs of over heating.
Also a new filter at the end of the oil pick up.
I hope to be on the road again soon.
Three more things.
1) Use blue locktite on the transfer case bolts.
2) Apply a THIN bead of sealant when sealing the case. You can easily clog the filter at the end of the pick up tube and starve everything of lubricant.
3) I was stupid again and totally forgot blue loctite when bolting the transfer case to the trans the first time. The paper gasket between transfer case and trans can compress a bit over time and give non-loctite nuts a chance to fall off.
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I slapped in the MA pump rub fix, new chain, 3 new speed sensors and a few new clips. I buttoned the transfer case up and it was only 9pm so I figured I'd just finish the job. It took me 2.5 hours but everything was back in place. After a run to test the 4x4 and highway speeds I noticed the front driveshaft was vibrating a bit. I went back home, readjusted the front shaft, tested again and no vibration up to 85mph! I did notice after than run I had a VA trooper on my ass. Ooops! I think he took pity on me after seeing my reaction.
In all my goal was to complete the following BEFORE it started snowing. It started in April and ended in November. 7 months starting from GM noob.
- Full suspension rebuild
- Full brake rebuild
- Full front diff rebuild
- Full transfer case rebuild
- Full stereo rebuild
- New wheel bearings
- Tons of misc things that piled up over the years the prev owner missed
I did it!
About that snow part? I might have been delirious at 1:30am after my final test run but I found the fact it started snowing right when I got home to be strange and funny. I literally just finished the truck before it started snowing in my area. Ha!
If anyone needs help in the Norther VA area just PM me. I can help you avoid lots of mistakes I made.
Now to source a 4l80e trans to rebuild for spring. Anyone have one they want to get rid of for cheap?
Mmmmmm 4l80e swap....
During the transmission rebuild:
In all my goal was to complete the following BEFORE it started snowing. It started in April and ended in November. 7 months starting from GM noob.
- Full suspension rebuild
- Full brake rebuild
- Full front diff rebuild
- Full transfer case rebuild
- Full stereo rebuild
- New wheel bearings
- Tons of misc things that piled up over the years the prev owner missed
I did it!
About that snow part? I might have been delirious at 1:30am after my final test run but I found the fact it started snowing right when I got home to be strange and funny. I literally just finished the truck before it started snowing in my area. Ha!
If anyone needs help in the Norther VA area just PM me. I can help you avoid lots of mistakes I made.
Now to source a 4l80e trans to rebuild for spring. Anyone have one they want to get rid of for cheap?
Mmmmmm 4l80e swap....
During the transmission rebuild:
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