2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[Dantheman1540]

Obviously most of you have seen that I completed the 9.5sf 14 bolt swap. However for documentation purposes here is the link to the thread that details the swap https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/9-5sf-swap.117878/page-11#post-1440440.

Here is a before and after picture both at full droop.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I know I complained about the price of the DJM end links but I found these and like that they are adjustable even though they cost more. Plus grade 8 hardware is $20 at ace so really then end links are only $80.

https://www.amazon.com/Hellwig-7961-8-11-Adjustable-Endlinks/dp/B001UFXTC0

Edit- There is a shorter size as well.

 

[Onebad1983]

Yee muthafahqin Haww!!!!

They came free with the wheels

Plus I needed to heat up the oil to ensure there were no leaks

Gotta break it in

Burnouts are the only good break in process

 

[Rocket Man]

I know I complained about the price of the DJM end links but I found these and like that they are adjustable even though they cost more. Plus grade 8 hardware is $20 at ace so really then end links are only $80.

https://www.amazon.com/Hellwig-7961-8-11-Adjustable-Endlinks/dp/B001UFXTC0

Edit- There is a shorter size as well.

Those don’t relocate the sway bar to the passenger side like the DJM ones. If you’re lowered more than 4” I highly suggest the DJM or your panhard bracket will probably hit on hard bumps. Otherwise carry on.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Those don’t relocate the sway bar to the passenger side like the DJM ones. If you’re lowered more than 4” I highly suggest the DJM or your panhard bracket will probably hit on hard bumps. Otherwise carry on.

Very good point. Gonna have to look at that area see if I can design an adjustable one that's also moves it over.

Not totally against the djm endlinks just exploring all options.

The current ones are completely shot.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Finally plumbed the airlift bags. Wanted a fixed gauge so I could see if they are dropping pressure without having to use a tire pressure gauge everytime. Put them at 20psi just to see if they hold air over night and wow the ride quality is much better! I always thought the ride was good except when it would bottom out on huge speed bumps or dips. Just went over my local "middle of the road ravine" at 55mph which usually bottoms out hard and makes taint tightening noises. This time it was smooth controlled and rather soft. Also noticed a considerable change in body roll.

Still want to play around with PSI settings but so far I'm thrilled!

Also gmt800 and gmt900 sway bars appear to be identical.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Finally plumbed the airlift bags. Wanted a fixed gauge so I could see if they are dropping pressure without having to use a tire pressure gauge everytime. Put them at 20psi just to see if they hold air over night and wow the ride quality is much better! I always thought the ride was good except when it would bottom out on huge speed bumps or dips. Just went over my local "middle of the road ravine" at 55mph which usually bottoms out hard and makes taint tightening noises. This time it was smooth controlled and rather soft. Also noticed a considerable change in body roll.

Still want to play around with PSI settings but so far I'm thrilled!

Also gmt800 and gmt900 sway bars appear to be identical.
View attachment 246024 View attachment 246025 View attachment 246026 View attachment 246027

Double "Like" for taint tightening lol!! Must be a seriously messed up road. Just curious--gonna move that gauge up front somewhere? Maybe in the dash cubby? A nice digital gauge . Are the 800 and 900 sway bars exactly the same? Thickness too? Any advantage to using the 900 you think?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Double "Like" for taint tightening lol!! Must be a seriously messed up road. Just curious--gonna move that gauge up front somewhere? Maybe in the dash cubby? A nice digital gauge . Are the 800 and 900 sway bars exactly the same? Thickness too? Any advantage to using the 900 you think?

No plan anytime soon to move it up front. I figured if I'm gonna tow a trailer I'll open the hatch to grab the ball and trailer plug adapter. While I'm in there I can glance at the gauge and if need be air up or down. I have a cheap 12v compressor that can plug in right next to the fill plug so figured I'd keep it all together. Plus it was easy to T off of the fill line for the gauge.

If I notice that the bags deflate over time I will likely end up with a small automatic compressor. At that point I would put a digital gauge along with the control up front.

I didn't put a micrometer on either bar but I held them up together and they appear identical in all ways. No advantage I can see.

 

[Tonyrodz]

No plan anytime soon to move it up front. I figured if I'm gonna tow a trailer I'll open the hatch to grab the ball and trailer plug adapter. While I'm in there I can glance at the gauge and if need be air up or down. I have a cheap 12v compressor that can plug in right next to the fill plug so figured I'd keep it all together. Plus it was easy to T off of the fill line for the gauge.

If I notice that the bags deflate over time I will likely end up with a small automatic compressor. At that point I would put a digital gauge along with the control up front.

I didn't put a micrometer on either bar but I held them up together and they appear identical in all ways. No advantage I can see.

Good stuff. Thx Dan.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Good stuff. Thx Dan.

Also I'll add the gauge, T fitting and gauge barb adapter I needed to have the gauge hooked up was all less than $15 at harbour freight so if I end up hating it oh well.