2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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So did some googling or uhhh…. Rock autoing and found that there are two different hydro boosters. The one with the king cylinder like I have in my Tahoe is for the gas trucks, SUVs and 2500HDs, and is rated for 7200# whatever that means. The short cylinder one is for diesels and is rated for 12k#. It explained why my RCSB always had a better feeling brake pedal than the Tahoe while both are hydroboost it has the diesel one.

So now I gotta rob that off it lol.
 

randeez

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So did some googling or uhhh…. Rock autoing and found that there are two different hydro boosters. The one with the king cylinder like I have in my Tahoe is for the gas trucks, SUVs and 2500HDs, and is rated for 7200# whatever that means. The short cylinder one is for diesels and is rated for 12k#. It explained why my RCSB always had a better feeling brake pedal than the Tahoe while both are hydroboost it has the diesel one.

So now I gotta rob that off it lol.
Good thing, I had cylinder envy. Shorty on my yukon,thing fookin stops awesome. But if it could stop awesomer I may had to upgrade.
Does it work like an accumulator? To store charge in the event of a failure or something? Not sure why they would have diff sizes tho
 
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randeez

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Whoa whoa when is this? And your parting the whole truck out? Seriously interested and have a mule that goes to Miami once a month.
I'd rather sell it whole but not having it "good enough" for me to drive regularly I'd get no where near what I think parting it out would
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Good thing, I had cylinder envy. Shorty on my yukon,thing fookin stops awesome. But if it could stop awesomer I may had to upgrade.
Does it work like an accumulator? To store charge in the event of a failure or something? Not sure why they would have diff sizes tho

So the smaller one is rated for more weight and is what came in the Dmaxs. Is yours factory or did you do the swap?

I’m this case short is better, never gonna hear that from a woman tho.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I'd rather sell it whole but not having it "good enough" for me to drive regularly I'd get no where near what I think parting it out would
Yeah I feel ya, I’ve been sorting my RCSB and gotten a fairly good chunk off stuff I didn’t know was worth anything. Not much left tho, not sure how to sell a cab, frame, and front end. Can’t even winch it on a trailer cause no rear axle.

I really don’t need a whole new axle because well I have one, and I have the 4.10s, and an e locker. But I’d prefer a trutrac and I’d prefer not to pay labor to have my gears installed. What you want for it if you part out? I’m really not in a rush.
 

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Did stuff today
-Installed redhead box, one finger steering at idle now.
-OEM rear UCAs which weren’t really bad like I thought. I think maybe just the driver side bolt that goes to the axle was loose.
-New TBSS dudes rear endlinks but didn’t drill and move the sway bar over because my stuff fits fine.
-Swapped from $20 catch cans to my $300 Mighty Mouse and found out my nitrogen cylinder on my Tahoe hydroboost which I think is OEM. Is actually twice the size as my RCSBs which is from a duramax. It had clearance issues so I had to ghetto fab a bracket.
-Found ac sensor wiring issue, no idea why the wires are legit stripped.
-Did oil change to Rotella T6 and a Wix filter cause it’s hot down here and this thing suffers from kinda low idle OP. I also found nearly nothing on the magnet and he filter looked clean after 5k.
-Lastly, removed steering stabilizer. The shock seems fine but the rubber bushings are completely gone. I’d like to replace them with poly and maybe a Bilstein shock cause they are pretty. But if anyone has a link or part # to poly bushings I’ll just do that. Although I’m gonna drive it a bit and see if I think the stabilizer is even worth it.
Member just posted this299997-f3d6336ca0c2c1b54e4521b363ed57a9.jpgused these for his stabilizer.
 

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