2004 Tahoe/Epic failure

[freeman987]

Unplug the amp there in the center console. Likely not the issue, but its in the area of burnt wires that you described earlier

It being a 2004, it might have Sirius XM. On my Esky, that was shorted out from a bad factory install. That stopped it from popping the 15a fuse for me.

Also, save a but of money, go to the AutoParts Store, and get a 10a circuit breaker, at least thats what I recommend. Circuit breakers always seem to take a bit more current to pop, so I always go one step below for wiring diags. This way when it pops, you just reset it for the next test.

Also, unplug all the wires under your passenger seat. A PDM, or power seat controller, could be an issue.

EDIT: Check all the wiring going to and from the cigarette lighter, and the OBD port hot wire. They are connected.

Circuit breakers a damn good idea. Just went thru 11 15a minis. I got the amp completely unplugged. Am trying to unplug everything closest to the firewall harness. Like I said earlier vehicle electrical isn't my fortay. When I'm using the ohmneter on the 15a cig fuse under the hood I'm getting 171.5 reading and it's jumps to 174ish when I unplug certain plugs. Mind you I'm not plugging any back in. I feel like I should be able to isolate this problem a little better and faster.

And if I were to pull the fuse block and remove the 15a fuse port should that let me turn the vehicle over?

 

[freeman987]

being it was cranked and lighter area started smoking. Need to check grounds cause starter pulls alot of ampage and with a poor ground it will find whatever path it can and will smoke/ burn wires along the way

Ahh f me..they did say the starter was dragging after the fuel pump fuse was replaced. I know someone got their hands on it and who knows if it was reinstalled right. Guess I'm gonna put the pick and tester away and jack this fkr in up...lame..thank you also. You guys are taking me to school I appreciate the help

 

[03catburban]

Ahh f me..they did say the starter was dragging after the fuel pump fuse was replaced. I know someone got their hands on it and who knows if it was reinstalled right. Guess I'm gonna put the pick and tester away and jack this fkr in up...lame..thank you also. You guys are taking me to school I appreciate the help

Check ur main grounds for corrosion, also a quick dirty test add a temporary ground like a jumper cable clamp to battery to block.

Could also do a voltage drop test on the ground circuit at the battery

 

[freeman987]

Unplug the amp there in the center console. Likely not the issue, but its in the area of burnt wires that you described earlier

It being a 2004, it might have Sirius XM. On my Esky, that was shorted out from a bad factory install. That stopped it from popping the 15a fuse for me.

Also, save a but of money, go to the AutoParts Store, and get a 10a circuit breaker, at least thats what I recommend. Circuit breakers always seem to take a bit more current to pop, so I always go one step below for wiring diags. This way when it pops, you just reset it for the next test.

Also, unplug all the wires under your passenger seat. A PDM, or power seat controller, could be an issue.

EDIT: Check all the wiring going to and from the cigarette lighter, and the OBD port hot wire. They are connected.

I'm getting around 170 to 190 on my ohm read when testing the cig fuse. If I leave the red probe in the cig fuse port I get 190 ohms in the pdm fuse and about half of the rest of the fuses in the driver fuse block. In the 12 way body plug (brwn) I get 90 ohm on one of the ugly brown wires. My question is have I narrowed thus down at all? Smh

 

[Mudsport96]

So is the 15 blowing as soon as you turn the key to accessory? Or only when you try to start it?

 

[freeman987]

So is the 15 blowing as soon as you turn the key to accessory? Or only when you try to start it?

When I connect the battery

 

[Meathead16]

Circuit breakers a damn good idea. Just went thru 11 15a minis. I got the amp completely unplugged. Am trying to unplug everything closest to the firewall harness. Like I said earlier vehicle electrical isn't my fortay. When I'm using the ohmneter on the 15a cig fuse under the hood I'm getting 171.5 reading and it's jumps to 174ish when I unplug certain plugs. Mind you I'm not plugging any back in. I feel like I should be able to isolate this problem a little better and faster.

Do you have the battery disconnected when taking your resistance readings? While actual resistance can offer some guidance in a way, you're moreso looking for continuity.

And if I were to pull the fuse block and remove the 15a fuse port should that let me turn the vehicle over?

Sounds like you might have something deeper going on. A blown cig lighter/obd2 port fuse won't cause a no start condition.

 

[RoyBoy]

When I connect the battery

Buy a blue point YA809 short an open circuit locator. Just follow the directions and it will take you right to a dead short. For anybody out there dealing with electrical problems or not this is a must for your toolbox. It will pay for itself first time you use it good luck let us know what you find.

 

[freeman987]

Do you have the battery disconnected when taking your resistance readings? While actual resistance can offer some guidance in a way, you're moreso looking for continuity.



Sounds like you might have something deeper going on. A blown cig lighter/obd2 port fuse won't cause a no start condition.

I've been doing all this with the battery disconnected. Besides when I was swapping the 15 amp fuses. With battery disconnected I've been putting my ohm meter on the 15a fuse port with the Red lead and using the negative lead to probe every wire I can. Interesting readings. I know .5 or so is a good reading. With all bells and whistles coming on including aftermarket pro install stereo. (I know it could be done wrong). And a no start. I've got just about everything disconnected..I think.lol..what should my ohm meter read wi th just the cig fuse tested with no battery? Oh and I removed the starter because it was jankied with just before this happened. I'm going into the headliner now. Would this be easier to replace the whole harness?

 

[Meathead16]

I'm confused on what exactly you're trying to do. You're measuring the resistance between the power side of the 15a cig lighter fuse and every wire on the vehicle? Power side of that fuse is fed right from the battery so you're basically measuring the resistance between the pos bat term and everything else which won't be of much help with this problem specifically. If testing from the fused side of the fuse you should only be showing a reading on what that fuse supplies, the cig lighter and obd port. A reading anywhere else is indicative of exposed wires touching.

I forget if it's been mentioned or not but have you removed the underhood fuse box and checked underneath? It's a spot loved by rodents and pests for nests, oh my!

IOh and I removed the starter because it was jankied with just before this happened. I'm going into the headliner now. Would this be easier to replace the whole harness?

If everything was copacetic before the starter was jankied with then most likely the starter, or something closely associated with it, needs a fine tooth comb treatment.