My 2013 Yukon XL 1500

[Airman68]

Nasty plugs. if it had different plugs, might be with it to replace the wires too. As far as the AFM disable. The easiest thing to do is just a module plugged into the OBD port. Then no worries, just unplug it before your test. No software. I bought this one on Amazon and it worked better than the Range brand unit I had before. At least your covered until you can get it deleted or whatever you do.

RA003 Active Fuel Management Disabler Device, AFM/DFM Disabler Device Compatible with most GM V6 and V8 Vehicles​

Brand: GREATUS

 

[BigDogYJ]

Nasty plugs. if it had different plugs, might be with it to replace the wires too. As far as the AFM disable. The easiest thing to do is just a module plugged into the OBD port. Then no worries, just unplug it before your test. No software. I bought this one on Amazon and it worked better than the Range brand unit I had before. At least your covered until you can get it deleted or whatever you do.

RA003 Active Fuel Management Disabler Device, AFM/DFM Disabler Device Compatible with most GM V6 and V8 Vehicles​

Brand: GREATUS

Unfortunately the way those AFM disablers work is to cause an interference with the monitoring tests and when a code appears in the computer it automatically clears it. So if thats the case I would need to still drive for a bit to pass the tests that were interrupted.
Or at least thats my understanding of it.

 

[BigDogYJ]

Good news! It passed with the Evap monitoring test still pending. apparently as long as all the others have passed with no DTC's and that one test is pending (not failed) then it will pass. Heading out of town this weekend but I'll be tuning AFM out of it as soon as I get back. then figuring out what I'm going to do next.

 

[BigDogYJ]

And Just for the record it had a bunch of little things that needed attention that I've taken care of:
- Rear defroster glass tab broken off (repaired with permatex kit)
- door panel lock rattle (tesa fuzzy tape on back side kept them from rattling)
- rear window glass release button (new button)
- front windshield cowl trim around hood hinges (rubber all dried out and broken out of it)
- both rear door window switches would roll down but not roll up (driver could roll them up) -- new switches fixed the problem
- Greased all door latches and hinges
- greased middle row folding seat mech hinges
- treated all rubber weatherstripping


After driving it for last few days or so I made a note of a few things that still need addressing:
- new struts/shocks front/rear
- new license plate bulb
- front side marker bulb
- rear side marker bulbs
- drain and refill Tcase, Trans, F/R Diff fluids
- flush power steering fluid
- cerakote treatment for all black trim
- cerakote treatment for headlight and taillight housings
- touch up a couple chips on the bumpers

All in all pretty minor stuff. Just some general maintenance and cleaning and a few worn out pieces that needed to be replaced. other than that it'll be a pretty good runner once the AFM garbage is removed. Back at it next week.

 

[BigDogYJ]

I know it’s been minute since I updated this — our summer got really busy.
But I still have it and it’s still running good. I’ve got about 1200 miles on it since releasing the collapsed lifter. I do notice a very slight tick at times and a slight shudder at idle in gear. But I think it just needs a bit more driving with some good fuel and oil to clean it up. It’s definitely better than it was early on. We used it as a people shuttle this past weekend for my sisters wedding. It cleaned up real nice.

A couple weeks back I got all the fluids changed (trans/filter, f/r diffs, Tcase, power steering, bled brakes) and changed front struts and rear shocks. Trans fluid was pretty dark and decent amount of clutch material on the magnet but no metal flakes that I could see. As far as I know the trans is all original with 185k miles. I’m a bit concerned about it but it shifts fine and feels ok, just hear a lot about the crappy torque converter and how they programmed the lockup TCC. So I programmed tcm with the TCC lockup removed in 1-4 and set slip to 0 in 5th and 6th. so far seems fine. shifting is still good. a bit more rpm’s between shifts but it helps the engine feel like it has more consistent acceleration vs the stock programming. i’ll keep driving it.
My DZLburb popped a power steering line the other day so this has become my daily driver for now — I was just searching for pricing to see what they were selling for and then the power steering pumps out all the fluid in the street so maybe this is God’s way of telling me to not sell it yet? haha. oh well. Changed the oil about 2k miles ago (running Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30) hoping this will help clean up the last bit of whatever’s in there. still has a bit of a flutter at idle occasionally but seems a bit better lately. I'll probably change the oil in the next 500 miles and keep driving it for now. It’s been a great people mover which has been most of my driving duties as of late.