2004 yukon, does not start--my fault

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Rball

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new to this site and looking for help. I have an 04 Yukon 168,000 mi. I decided to use Seafoam in the air box
I used Seafoam Deep Creep. I know now i used the wrong can. First I sprayed in what looked like a vent tube in the air box, next to the TPS. I thought that was the wrong place to spray, ( the motor was still running), i then sprayed into the air box past the throttle plate, after about 15 sec the engine quit running. It would turn over but would not start back up. Inside it said reduced engine power. Before me doing what i did, we never had a starting or running issue. Trying to decide if i need to remove the air box and clean the TPS, or remove the injectors. I did pull a couple of sparks plugs, they looked good and not flooded. I did purchase a can of starting fluid, and sprayed it in the air box. It seemed like it wanted to start but did not. Any help would be appreciated. i don't have a checker like auto zone. I'm not sure where the Seafoam went into the engine.
 

about20ninj45

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new to this site and looking for help. I have an 04 Yukon 168,000 mi. I decided to use Seafoam in the air box
I used Seafoam Deep Creep. I know now i used the wrong can. First I sprayed in what looked like a vent tube in the air box, next to the TPS. I thought that was the wrong place to spray, ( the motor was still running), i then sprayed into the air box past the throttle plate, after about 15 sec the engine quit running. It would turn over but would not start back up. Inside it said reduced engine power. Before me doing what i did, we never had a starting or running issue. Trying to decide if i need to remove the air box and clean the TPS, or remove the injectors. I did pull a couple of sparks plugs, they looked good and not flooded. I did purchase a can of starting fluid, and sprayed it in the air box. It seemed like it wanted to start but did not. Any help would be appreciated. i don't have a checker like auto zone. I'm not sure where the Seafoam went into the engine.

Remove battery cables for tenn minutes and try to start again.
 

afpj

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When you say airbox, you don't mean filter housing do you? If so, then the maf got oiled. You need to get maf spray cleaner & clean that oil out of it. Get throttle body cleaner and clean throttle body thoroughly. Hope that's all it takes. I had to look up deep creep...it looks like just penetrating oil, not your typical seafoam engine product.
 

M1Gunner

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If you sprayed in front of the path of the MAF, that is a complete no no. ANY amount of oil residue on the finicky MAF sensor will skew any readings. as @afpj suggested try some MAF cleaner. I'm not a believer in it but it doesn't hurt to try it.

Also if you use any product like that, especially throttle body cleaner spraying into the intake can cause it to not want to start but just continue to crank and it will eventually fire up. It'll run rough and more than likely spew smoke for a few but it's ok. Take it down the road and gun and run all that excess fluid out of he system.
 
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Rball

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Thank you for all the info. The air filter assembly and MAF had been removed before anything was done. I did remove the negative battery cable for 15 min. and retried to start-no luck, so i did it again. Still no luck. I will try and start it again. I'm just not trying to over work the starter. Could the Deep Creep i used have gotten to the injectors?
Againn Thank you for the input.
 
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Rball

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If you sprayed in front of the path of the MAF, that is a complete no no. ANY amount of oil residue on the finicky MAF sensor will skew any readings. as @afpj suggested try some MAF cleaner. I'm not a believer in it but it doesn't hurt to try it.

Also if you use any product like that, especially throttle body cleaner spraying into the intake can cause it to not want to start but just continue to crank and it will eventually fire up. It'll run rough and more than likely spew smoke for a few but it's ok. Take it down the road and gun and run all that excess fluid out of he system.

I have tried to get it started. Disconnected the Maf sensor, checked all the fuses. When i try and start it i have the acc pedal on the floor.
 

retiredsparky

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Could the deep creep have made it through the engine to the O2 sensors? If you were doing a hot start, the sensors maybe could have prevented a proper fuel mix (closed loop).

But if you tried a cold start as well, then the O2 sensors would not have any impact on a cold start (open loop). I may be incorrect on this.

Could the MAF wiring connector be damaged or one of the wires be broken from disconnecting? Check the contacts for physical damage. Check for any other disconnected/ damaged wiring. If the throttle position sensor is messed up, I believe you would have a no start.

Also, cam and crank position sensors have to agree for engine start. These ideas are way out there, so eventually you may need to get the engine scanned to figure this out. There are many guys here who can recommend a good scanner.
Larry
 
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about20ninj45

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I have tried to get it started. Disconnected the Maf sensor, checked all the fuses. When i try and start it i have the acc pedal on the floor.

You don't want to have the accelerator pressed all the way to the floor. The tps won't let the engine fire if thinks there is a flood condition. Try 20 percent to half throttle when your starting it.

If you have 10 bucks to spare, you can buy an obd2 wifi reader that so with with your phone (Android) or Bluetooth ( iPhone) to see what codes are coming up. That will be your next best option
 
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Rball

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Could the deep creep have made it through the engine to the O2 sensors? If you were doing a hot start, the sensors maybe could have prevented a proper fuel mix (closed loop).

But if you tried a cold start as well, then the O2 sensors would not have any impact on a cold start (open loop). I may be incorrect on this.

Could the MAF wiring connector be damaged or one of the wires be broken from disconnecting? Check the contacts for physical damage. Check for any other disconnected/ damaged wiring. If the throttle position sensor is messed up, I believe you would have a no start.

Also, cam and crank position sensors have to agree for engine start. These ideas are way out there, so eventually you may need to get the engine scanned to figure this out. There are many guys here who can recommend a good scanner.
Larry

W O W
So here it is. I purchased a scan tool at Auto Zone. Hooked it up and found 21 codes, several were repetitive. Cleared the codes, then tried to start the truck. It started like it always had. Took it for a drive, idles better ,works good. Thanks for all your help.
 

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