Mr. Merk
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I believe they have conversion packages for AWD, do some digging.
2006 Denali 6.0 cam/heads/intake upgrade kit
- Thread starter Hammartime
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I believe they have conversion packages for AWD, do some digging.
livingez_123
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the AWD front diff is a source of issues, the bearings don't seem to last very long at all. Going from AWD to 2wd is very easy. If your trans is in real good shape, just swap out the 4x4 output shaft for a 2wd shaft and put a 2wd tail shaft housing on it, get a driveline from a 2wd Tahoe, Yukon. This way you can get rid of some extra weight in the front end. You will also need to change your front wheel bearings to 2wd units, or if your cheap you can just put the outer CV joint back in until you want to change them. Upgrading to a 4L80e is a good choice if you plan to tow a lot or play a lot. you can make the AWD tc work with the 80e but you will have to have new drivelines made.
As to ezdaar and his suggestion of a 3-3200 stall, if you plan to race it great, but for a daily driver your just creating extra heat and you will not be able to take advantage of the low-end torque that starts around the 1,500rpm range. If your going to dump money into it, just put a blower on it, some long tube headers and a BB tune. no changing of the heads or cam needed.
As to ezdaar and his suggestion of a 3-3200 stall, if you plan to race it great, but for a daily driver your just creating extra heat and you will not be able to take advantage of the low-end torque that starts around the 1,500rpm range. If your going to dump money into it, just put a blower on it, some long tube headers and a BB tune. no changing of the heads or cam needed.
Hammartime
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Wow, this is all great info guys, I really appreciate it. I am now considering doing just the turbo Doug mentioned, and seeing how I like it. For $2000, it sounds like the best bang for my buck. I am trying to find a used 4l80 and have it rebuilt in the meantime. That turbo has a bunch of different add-ons, and i don't want/need them all, but I'm sure a few of them are necessary? I am looking into long tube headers now also....Any recommendations? I am trying to go with things that bolt right up and won't need any customization or fabrication to install, trying to avoid as much BS as possible while doing this, although I know there's always some BS involved doing stuff like this.
Mr. Merk
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If you do the turbo....
A. you won't need headers
B. I suggest you do a lot more research.... A LOT MORE
C. It's not as simple as bolting it on and it works. You'll need to upgrade your fuel system and get a great tune (as with any serious modification.) Also your factory trans will be history within minutes. AGAIN, without a good tune, your engine will be history within minutes.
---------- Post added at 11:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 AM ----------
Headers
Hammartime
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Haha my mechanic just said the same thing!
---------- Post added at 03:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
As far as upgrading the fuel system, do you mean pump, injectors and maf? I am already looking into rebuilding a used 4l80 tranny, and I will most likely have to go to a 2wd setup because it sounds like keeping the AWD will be a pain in the ass even though I'd like to.
---------- Post added at 03:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:03 PM ----------
I knew a tune was inevitable, where do you recommend I go for that? We don't have any real performance shops around here, so it would have to be something I will need to get through an online source.
---------- Post added at 03:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
As far as upgrading the fuel system, do you mean pump, injectors and maf? I am already looking into rebuilding a used 4l80 tranny, and I will most likely have to go to a 2wd setup because it sounds like keeping the AWD will be a pain in the ass even though I'd like to.
---------- Post added at 03:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:03 PM ----------
I knew a tune was inevitable, where do you recommend I go for that? We don't have any real performance shops around here, so it would have to be something I will need to get through an online source.
A Stay with the awd. Simply get a 4x4 4l80 or have the output shaft changed from a 2wd 4l80.
If you don't want AWD sell the denali in favor of a 2wd. The diff in cost will pay for your turbo kit and trans swap. But I wouldn't. Denali's are awesome! I've owned two.
The front diff will hold the power level we are talking about just fine.
As far as what fuel upgrades for the turbo. Injectors and fuel pump is all that's needed.
When your ready to purchase the turbo kit. Call and have your cold side setup to put the MAF in the piping before the throttle body.
Talk to him about your goals, he will steer you in the right direction as far as turbo size.
As far as heads and intake goes. With a turbo, you don't need to change them. Forced induction doesn't care about mods like that. It's as simple as this. If you want more power, turn up the boost.
If you was to stay NA, sure heads and intake will be mandatory.mbut it's not with FI.
Don't worrie about blowing up your engine. You won't. The LS engines can handle enormous boost levels 100% stock.
I would however stud the heads.
The converter, when you swap to the 80 you will need a new converter, the oem flashy so low is silly. It will not scratch your itch and with ANY decent cam your engine will be a slug from leaving from a stop. You WANT a "tight" 3-3200k converter. A tight converter will drive like stock when your just driving like normal, but instantly flash the engine to the 3-3200k mark when you stop the skinny pedal. Think of it like this. When your riding a motorcycle and want that quick hit of power. You twist the throttle and slip the clutch, bam, the engine instantly revs to 3-5k and your hauling ass.
That's what a good converter does.
This will also allow your engine to rev immediatly into max boost for tire screaming pavement marking terror.
Everyone I have ever known who does heads and cam or turbo that went with a puny trailblazer converter or a 2800rpm, wishes they went bigger with a 3-3200 and sometimes more. Besides the glaring fact the TB converter will not work with a 4l80.
Remember boost doesn't care about induction restriction, just turn it up.
Sure high flow parts makes more power easier, but it's not needed.
On your bone stock 6.0 @ 10-12 psi. You will be making far more power than you probably will want. Most DD run 8-10, 12 up gets interesting on the street.
Your going to need a catch can and a one way valve for it. FI makes a lot more blow by and LS are already known for drinking its own oil. So look into that aswell. We have a good thread about them here at TYF.
Just instal the one way valve on the "clean" side and all os well.
O, one more thing. Do not buy a over the counter cam! Those are idiot cams made for the masses. Call a cam builder (research names) and tell him what your doing and your end goals. Detail all parts you plan on installing and potential future mods. You will get a cam that is far superior than any ******** over the counter cam. I don't care who's name is on it. A custom grind always kicks over the counter cams asses!
You will need valve springs and the rocker trunion upgrade. Don't cheese around with springs, get best you can budget in.
Performancetrucks.net is your greatest friend here. Go read until your eyes bleed in the forced induction section. One hour there equals 10 hpurs here.
If you don't want AWD sell the denali in favor of a 2wd. The diff in cost will pay for your turbo kit and trans swap. But I wouldn't. Denali's are awesome! I've owned two.
The front diff will hold the power level we are talking about just fine.
As far as what fuel upgrades for the turbo. Injectors and fuel pump is all that's needed.
When your ready to purchase the turbo kit. Call and have your cold side setup to put the MAF in the piping before the throttle body.
Talk to him about your goals, he will steer you in the right direction as far as turbo size.
As far as heads and intake goes. With a turbo, you don't need to change them. Forced induction doesn't care about mods like that. It's as simple as this. If you want more power, turn up the boost.
If you was to stay NA, sure heads and intake will be mandatory.mbut it's not with FI.
Don't worrie about blowing up your engine. You won't. The LS engines can handle enormous boost levels 100% stock.
I would however stud the heads.
The converter, when you swap to the 80 you will need a new converter, the oem flashy so low is silly. It will not scratch your itch and with ANY decent cam your engine will be a slug from leaving from a stop. You WANT a "tight" 3-3200k converter. A tight converter will drive like stock when your just driving like normal, but instantly flash the engine to the 3-3200k mark when you stop the skinny pedal. Think of it like this. When your riding a motorcycle and want that quick hit of power. You twist the throttle and slip the clutch, bam, the engine instantly revs to 3-5k and your hauling ass.
That's what a good converter does.
This will also allow your engine to rev immediatly into max boost for tire screaming pavement marking terror.
Everyone I have ever known who does heads and cam or turbo that went with a puny trailblazer converter or a 2800rpm, wishes they went bigger with a 3-3200 and sometimes more. Besides the glaring fact the TB converter will not work with a 4l80.
Remember boost doesn't care about induction restriction, just turn it up.
Sure high flow parts makes more power easier, but it's not needed.
On your bone stock 6.0 @ 10-12 psi. You will be making far more power than you probably will want. Most DD run 8-10, 12 up gets interesting on the street.
Your going to need a catch can and a one way valve for it. FI makes a lot more blow by and LS are already known for drinking its own oil. So look into that aswell. We have a good thread about them here at TYF.
Just instal the one way valve on the "clean" side and all os well.
O, one more thing. Do not buy a over the counter cam! Those are idiot cams made for the masses. Call a cam builder (research names) and tell him what your doing and your end goals. Detail all parts you plan on installing and potential future mods. You will get a cam that is far superior than any ******** over the counter cam. I don't care who's name is on it. A custom grind always kicks over the counter cams asses!
You will need valve springs and the rocker trunion upgrade. Don't cheese around with springs, get best you can budget in.
Performancetrucks.net is your greatest friend here. Go read until your eyes bleed in the forced induction section. One hour there equals 10 hpurs here.
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Hammartime
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Where should I look for a solid tune?
Your going to need to do some digging, find a AWD Dino shop, as many as you can find.
Go in and start asking questions.
How many turbo cars have they tuned?
What's the fastest the shop,car has gone?
How many engines have they blown up? A truthful shop will tell you. A rip off shop will say none.
Who will be tuning?
How many vehicles has he tuned?
Talk to other customers, ask same question but directed to them.
Had any problems here?
Heard of any..
Etc..
I would say Justin from black bear. But that would require him in front of you and you planning your build to finish a day before he comes to your town to tune.
Mail order tuning a turbo vehicle is not recommended, to much can go wrong way to fast for that kind of tuning.
You will end up hurting the engine that way.
Go in and start asking questions.
How many turbo cars have they tuned?
What's the fastest the shop,car has gone?
How many engines have they blown up? A truthful shop will tell you. A rip off shop will say none.
Who will be tuning?
How many vehicles has he tuned?
Talk to other customers, ask same question but directed to them.
Had any problems here?
Heard of any..
Etc..
I would say Justin from black bear. But that would require him in front of you and you planning your build to finish a day before he comes to your town to tune.
Mail order tuning a turbo vehicle is not recommended, to much can go wrong way to fast for that kind of tuning.
You will end up hurting the engine that way.
Hammartime
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So I'm thinking the turbo ($3k with add ons) and the rebuilt 4l80 4x4 tranny (2k) I'll be set to rock n roll (5k total). Or Or I could start small with milling the heads, nice cam, long tubes and intake and go up from there (less than 2k). What is the difference between my stock intake and an 08+ intake? Those can be picked up relatively inexpensive, and I may as well have it ported/polished. I'm the type of dummy that ALWAYS says I should have gone bigger, regardless if it's an addition on my house or a tattoo, will I be disappointed starting small? I know there will still be some scratching to do, but what kind of hp increase can i expect with the intake/heads/cam/headers?
Mr. Merk
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I don't believe 100hp would be unreasonable.
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