2006 Tahoe/AC charged but Compressor not turning

[Mudsport96]

Ok. Power to the clutch is possible.
But as explained, the problem began as a properly working ac.

Cool sounds like what happened with my Silverado.
A/C worked then would not even with 12v at the compressor plug.

Start the engine, put ac on max to energize the coil.

Get a 2 foot wooden stick.

And tap the face of the compressor into the pulley with the SIDE of the stick. If it engages the problem is the clutch face is worn out od spec. The air gap it too wide for the coil to pull it in. I measured mine and picked up 3 from the junkyard. All good now

 

[Mudsport96]

Alternatively, feeler gauges in the air gap for the compressor to measure the gap between. 022 and .030 to check if it is in spec

 

[glmoore0001]

I will try the stick, it reminds me of the hammer to the starter fix

 

[glmoore0001]

Nope, the Ole Stick Trick did not work.

 

[glmoore0001]

I also found the Auto Button. I put it in Auto and now cannot turn it off Does that kind of confirm the control being bad? Thanks.. Gary

 

[OR VietVet]

I also found the Auto Button. I put it in Auto and now cannot turn it off Does that kind of confirm the control being bad? Thanks.. Gary

Unhook the positive battery cable and wait a couple minutes and then reattach and see what happens. Report here.

 

[glmoore0001]

Let me ask you this. When the clutch is engaged, does the very center of the compressor turn or is the clutch rotating around the center of the compressor? Looking at the compressor, a half inch or so of the face is turning with the pulley, the center is not. Does this mean the clutch is not engaged? Looking closely at the clutch face there seems to be some type of dry material (it is similar to dry grease) that has come out below that half inch of the face that turns.
I am used to the clutch being the complete face of the compressor and I know the clutch on my Dodge Ram is engaged when everything is turning with the pulley.
Sorry for the ignorance. Gary

 

[Mudsport96]

Ok so...
The red area the belt is on spins all the time.
When the wires going to the compressor are energized with 12 volts the blue section gets magnetically pulled to the red part.
Then BOTH the blue and green areas spin WITH the red.
I was as work earlier so i wasn't real clear. Tapping the blue area toward the red while the ac is on max/recirculating is what i did to figure out my clutch gap was too wide. If you tap the green nothing happens.

 

[nonickatall]

Are you sure that the AC was not stop cooling when you switched off the AC? I takes some time until it stops blowing cool air, after you switch of the system.

If your ac will not switch off when you disengage I can only imagine that your magnetic clutch or the related relais stucks.

I've seen a lot of Ac's which will not switch on, due to technical problems, but never one which will not stop cooling...

So check it, if you measure on the connector of the compressor, if there is 12v, when you switch on the AC, and if the 12v disappear when you switch of the AC.
If, your magnetic clutch is defect.
If not, put 12 v on the compressor, if the clutch engage and disengage the problem comes from the compressor relais or the control unit.

 

[glmoore0001]

Sorry for the delay, I am finally getting back to this problem.
Yes, It is for sure that the AC stayed on before the it quit cooling for good. I have always used it in manual mode,
if you read above, I did not know the auto even existed. I put it on dash vent, and used the
snowflake button for AC. The last time it worked, I had the windows down and noticed the cold air was not going off.
I finally hit the snowflake button a few times, turned the unit off and on. It then made a honking? squeaking? kind of
noise, shot off and did not work afterwards.
OK, i will try what you suggest. I had planned to check the clearance as suggested by Mudsport also.
Thanks.. Gary