2007 Tahoe 5.3l AFM DOD delete thread

[Taheezy_88]

Sadly I didn't prime my oil pump

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[iamdub]

Sadly I didn't prime my oil pump

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When you go to start it, you can hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while you hold the key to "start". It'll crank for about 10 seconds then stop. Let go of the key and pedal to let the starter cool for a couple of minutes. Repeat once or twice more until you see something on the oil pressure gauge then release the pedal and start it as normal.

 

[Taheezy_88]

When you go to start it, you can hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while you hold the key to "start". It'll crank for about 10 seconds then stop. Let go of the key and pedal to let the starter cool for a couple of minutes. Repeat once or twice more until you see something on the oil pressure gauge then release the pedal and start it as normal.

Will do but if holding key to start wouldn't the car start? Or does the pedal pressed down flood it to where it won't start?

 

[Taheezy_88]

Anyone got the torque specs for the:

Rack and pinion?
Front crossmember?
Drive axle 6 bolts to differential?

Worried to drive and can't find the torque specs unless they are just
Tighten them as much as you can.

 

[wsteele]

Wasn't exactly sure what you needed so I just copy and pasted a bunch of things.

Rack and Pinion Gear Adjuster Lock Nut - 50 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Cylinder Line Fitting - 14 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Cylinder Line Retaining Plate Screw. - 106 lb in

Rack and Pinion Gear Inner Tie Rod End Jam Nut. - 55 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Inner Tie Rod End to Steering Gear - 74 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Outer Tie Rod End Nut - 44 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear to Frame Bolts-Left Side - 148 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear to Frame Bolts-Right Side - 74 lb ft

Front cross member 89 ft/lb (apply threadlocker GM P/N 12345493)

Inboard Flange Bolts - 58 lb ft

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

Should put a legend at the bottom. Lmao.

Did
Lfm
Tbl
Lrp
Cgw

No idea but what these mean

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[Taheezy_88]

Wasn't exactly sure what you needed so I just copy and pasted a bunch of things.

Rack and Pinion Gear Adjuster Lock Nut - 50 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Cylinder Line Fitting - 14 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Cylinder Line Retaining Plate Screw. - 106 lb in

Rack and Pinion Gear Inner Tie Rod End Jam Nut. - 55 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Inner Tie Rod End to Steering Gear - 74 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear Outer Tie Rod End Nut - 44 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear to Frame Bolts-Left Side - 148 lb ft

Rack and Pinion Gear to Frame Bolts-Right Side - 74 lb ft

Front cross member 89 ft/lb (apply threadlocker GM P/N 12345493)

Inboard Flange Bolts - 58 lb

Thanks

 

[iamdub]

Will do but if holding key to start wouldn't the car start? Or does the pedal pressed down flood it to where it won't start?

The opposite. Holding the pedal to the floor is actually a factory "clear flood" function. It lets the engine crank but without firing the injectors or ignition coils. The engine spinning will turn the oil pump slowly, but enough to eventually push oil through the system.

 

[89Suburban]

The opposite. Holding the pedal to the floor is actually a factory "clear flood" function. It lets the engine crank but without firing the injectors or ignition coils. The engine spinning will turn the oil pump slowly, but enough to eventually push oil through the system.

I learn't sumptin from you today bro, thanks. ((((hugs))))

 

[iamdub]

I learn't sumptin from you today bro, thanks. ((((hugs))))

This is a handy feature for those with an ailing lifter that ticks at startup but quiets down after oil pressure builds. With mine sitting for 1-3 weeks at a time, I had a pissed off lifter when I went to crank it. I started cranking it for about 20 seconds before releasing the pedal to crank it as normal to lube the lifters a little. It really helped the ticking. Not a single tick since the AFM delete, though.