2007 Timing Chain Engine Light

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
6,436
Reaction score
15,959
Location
Richmond, VA
Update - I didn't have time over the last week or so to deal with this myself so I took to a local shop who has done work on this vehicle in the past. The tech who normally works on this old piece of iron was not in and another tech looked at it. Diagnosed a bad timing chain/tensioner.

His bid to fix was $1,800.00 which seems to be quite high. What would you guys expect a reasonable price to be to do this job?
Thanks,
Tim
I think that's a fair estimate, assuming a shop rate of $125/hour plus parts. It's a pretty big job. To get the timing chain and tensioner out, you have to remove the oil pan, which is a PITA on these trucks if it's 4WD or AWD. And, most shops like to take the whole front differential out because that's what the book says. But in reality, all you need to do is remove the passenger side diff mounting bolts and the axle shaft bolts, and let it hang down, along with the steering rack mounts, and the frame crossmember. That gives just enough clearance to get the oil pan off, and also saves a good 2-3 hours of shop time. Before all of that though, the radiator, fans, power steering pump pulley, tensioners, belts, water pump, and the harmonic balancer have to all come out so that's a big chunk of the time, too.

+1 to what Wes said too. It's worth changing that cam position sensor as step 1. The tensioner itself seems an unlikely root cause for this because all it does is just keep the chain from flapping around. There isn't enough slack in the chain to allow it to jump time even without the tensioner, unless the chain is seriously stretched, which I doubt. It's not like an OHC engine where you have several feet of timing chain to stretch. On these engines you have about an inch between the cam and crank sprockets, so there just isn't enough chain to stretch appreciably.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
P

Plimbob

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Posts
352
Reaction score
217
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Due to miles on this engine and a leaking rear main, I was going to look a used motor and see what the cost variable is. My wife thinks I ought to just peddle it and move on... easy for her to say. I have put 285k of the current 305K miles, however its like a family member to me. I'll post the outcome of that research in the event it may help others.

Thanks guys for the feedback, I really appreciate it.
 
OP
OP
P

Plimbob

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Posts
352
Reaction score
217
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Another question, I found a 2014 engine with less miles (134,000) and 8th position of VIN a '0' like mine. However, if I go this route should I get the ECM as well considering mine is a 2007?

Thanks,
Tim
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,369
Posts
1,866,863
Members
96,995
Latest member
beachbum15

Latest posts

Top