2007 Yukon Denali crank no start after driving

[Jhall37]

Any five for this yet? I’m dealing with the same issue.
07 6.2 denali
new cps
new oil control valve
new oil pump
new pick up tube oring
new timing chain

driven 2500 miles an$ now the stalling at idle and stabili trac lights ar3 on with the p0011 code

 

[Dan Sho]

I’m still surviving with fresh oil. It’s still rough at idle a bit but doesn’t stall and no codes. Literally was stalling every drive until I changed the oil. My next step is cam position sensor. It’s really noticeable as soon as the oil pressure drops below 20. Let me add the last change for the 6th court I put Lucas in which bumped up my pressure by nearly 5

 

[pastormatt]

I was struggling with a similar problem (2007 Yukon Denali XL 6.2 226k) that would stall after driving about 30 miles when pulling up to a stop light or sign. It'd stall and refuse to start for 20+ minutes without ever showing a code. Had this problem for 3 months. Tried a bunch of things: replace fuel pump, Cleaning Throttle body, Mass AirFlow Sensor, running injector cleaner through tank, replacing crank sensor. Changing oil did seem to help a little bit-- the truck would idle really rough instead of immediately stalling. Bought a cheap code reader on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q3TSC9D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and after watching it it stall a few times I noticed that my evaporative pressure seemed to go really high positive pressure. I replaced the Evap Purge Valve. Immediately after replacing I went for a drive and the truck's dash light up check engine, vsa and traction lights, then went into reduced power mode. The code was a P2138 and mentioned something about Accelerator Pedal Position Sensors being not plausible. Watching the sensors when I drove it, I did notice 1 of the 2 sensors would spike contrary to the other unexpectedly. Replaced Pedal and swapped out gas cap. Since then, I've driven 400+ miles so far without stalling.

TLDR; Replacing Evaporative Purge Valve, Accelerator Pedal (with sensors), and gas cap seemed to fix my similar issue.

 

[Dan Sho]

I was struggling with a similar problem (2007 Yukon Denali XL 6.2 226k) that would stall after driving about 30 miles when pulling up to a stop light or sign. It'd stall and refuse to start for 20+ minutes without ever showing a code. Had this problem for 3 months. Tried a bunch of things: replace fuel pump, Cleaning Throttle body, Mass AirFlow Sensor, running injector cleaner through tank, replacing crank sensor. Changing oil did seem to help a little bit-- the truck would idle really rough instead of immediately stalling. Bought a cheap code reader on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q3TSC9D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and after watching it it stall a few times I noticed that my evaporative pressure seemed to go really high positive pressure. I replaced the Evap Purge Valve. Immediately after replacing I went for a drive and the truck's dash light up check engine, vsa and traction lights, then went into reduced power mode. The code was a P2138 and mentioned something about Accelerator Pedal Position Sensors being not plausible. Watching the sensors when I drove it, I did notice 1 of the 2 sensors would spike contrary to the other unexpectedly. Replaced Pedal and swapped out gas cap. Since then, I've driven 400+ miles so far without stalling.

TLDR; Replacing Evaporative Purge Valve, Accelerator Pedal (with sensors), and gas cap seemed to fix my similar issue.

Haven’t heard that one yet worth looking into for sure!

 

[YukonNewGuy]

I’m still surviving with fresh oil. It’s still rough at idle a bit but doesn’t stall and no codes. Literally was stalling every drive until I changed the oil. My next step is cam position sensor. It’s really noticeable as soon as the oil pressure drops below 20. Let me add the last change for the 6th court I put Lucas in which bumped up my pressure by nearly 5

Hi Dan,
Refreshing this post to see if you had any updates. I read through the history posted on this and literally have the same problem with my 2007 Yukon Denali. I purchased it about 3 months ago with no issues until now. It only has 37k miles on it and was operating like a new truck.

 

[YukonNewGuy]

Hi All,

Update as of 2/21/23. Had the same issue come up again about 3 weeks ago. Yukon died at a stop sign for 20 minutes (would crank and not start) and then fired right up like nothing happened and drove it home.

Took action this time. Ordered NGK spark plugs qty 8 (NGK 1465) laser Iridium, NGK wires #51436, and qty 8 new coil packs. Took about 2 hours to replace all of this and was not too bad of a job. The back plugs take some additional effort and is easier to access from under the truck. I also did a fresh oil / filter change since it was time.

I've driven over 1000 miles so far and (fingers crossed) not any issues at all. Has been running like a new truck. I do think the truck had the original AC Delco plugs, wires and coil packs that I replaced.

I'll check back in to report out if this continues to work.

 

[Fless]

When it won't start are you using clear flood mode? Floor the accelerator pedal to keep the injectors from firing. The purge valve on the engine might be staying open, letting fuel fumes into the system causing an over rich condition. Or perhaps there is a leaking injector which can be identified by performing an injector balance test.

 

[YukonNewGuy]

When it won't start are you using clear flood mode? Floor the accelerator pedal to keep the injectors from firing. The purge valve on the engine might be staying open, letting fuel fumes into the system causing an over rich condition. Or perhaps there is a leaking injector which can be identified by performing an injector balance test.

Hi Fless, really good advice here on the flood mode.

When it would not start I did attempt to leave the accelerator pedal floored to see if it would change any of the behavior with attempting to start. The only change that would occasionally occur (once every 3-4 starting attempts) is that the engine would "pop once" or just act like it was going to start. Otherwise starting attempts would only turn the engine over without any sign of the engine trying to start.

At this point, I am still not having any further issues. I think there must have been some component getting to warm to function after driving 40+ minutes. I think it was something with the spark plugs, wires or the coil packs that I replaced. I will let this tread know if anything changes.

Side note, why does the 6.2L engine have those metal heat shield type sleeve that go into the spark plug boot? Is there a potential issue there with design that the engine gets too warm near the plugs that this shield is needed to protect from too much heat? Just a note here on that that I noticed when replacing the spark plugs. I of course put these back when I put new plugs in...just though it seemed somewhat unique to the engine and I had not seen these on other cars.

 

[Geotrash]

Hi Fless, really good advice here on the flood mode.

When it would not start I did attempt to leave the accelerator pedal floored to see if it would change any of the behavior with attempting to start. The only change that would occasionally occur (once every 3-4 starting attempts) is that the engine would "pop once" or just act like it was going to start. Otherwise starting attempts would only turn the engine over without any sign of the engine trying to start.

At this point, I am still not having any further issues. I think there must have been some component getting to warm to function after driving 40+ minutes. I think it was something with the spark plugs, wires or the coil packs that I replaced. I will let this tread know if anything changes.

Side note, why does the 6.2L engine have those metal heat shield type sleeve that go into the spark plug boot? Is there a potential issue there with design that the engine gets too warm near the plugs that this shield is needed to protect from too much heat? Just a note here on that that I noticed when replacing the spark plugs. I of course put these back when I put new plugs in...just though it seemed somewhat unique to the engine and I had not seen these on other cars.

My 5.3 had them too. It's because the exhaust manifold is right there practically surrounding all of the plug wires.

 

[Geotrash]

Hi All,

Update as of 2/21/23. Had the same issue come up again about 3 weeks ago. Yukon died at a stop sign for 20 minutes (would crank and not start) and then fired right up like nothing happened and drove it home.

Took action this time. Ordered NGK spark plugs qty 8 (NGK 1465) laser Iridium, NGK wires #51436, and qty 8 new coil packs. Took about 2 hours to replace all of this and was not too bad of a job. The back plugs take some additional effort and is easier to access from under the truck. I also did a fresh oil / filter change since it was time.

I've driven over 1000 miles so far and (fingers crossed) not any issues at all. Has been running like a new truck. I do think the truck had the original AC Delco plugs, wires and coil packs that I replaced.

I'll check back in to report out if this continues to work.

One of the things not mentioned on this thread so far is that one of the causes of this stalling problem on the '07 6.2 is the VVT actuator/solenoid either not having enough oil pressure when the engine is hot to put the cam back into the park position, or the solenoid isn't functioning properly because it's worn. If your oil pressure is low at idle like the OP's, then that's a very likely culprit. The fix is usually replacing the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube if the OP is low, or the actuator itself if it's not. The o-ring on the pickup tube takes a set after so many years and start leaking air into the suction of the pump. And, the actuators just wear out after a while also.