So you change the bus center fuse block cable too?
2008 Yukon Electrical Problems
- Thread starter jpwood21
- Start date
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So you change the bus center fuse block cable too?
harveje
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if your talking about the one that runs from the mega fuse to the fuse box No. I'm looking for a part # for it and if it's not to salty I'll replace it to.
So on my 2011 Yukon XL
Today the doors strated to lock and unlock by themselves like it was possessed while driving.
Later, while parked, I could see the gauges "twitching", and there was no dome light.
---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------
You have the part numbers for the cables you replaced?
Today the doors strated to lock and unlock by themselves like it was possessed while driving.
Later, while parked, I could see the gauges "twitching", and there was no dome light.
---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------
You have the part numbers for the cables you replaced?
Just ordered Negative and Positive Battery cables the Yukon
Cderr14
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I had similar issues on my 2009 slt. Turned out to be the body control modular.
Same issues as the rest of you
I'm having the same issues as the rest of you: doors locking and unlocking, car shutting down, radio powers off, car powers off, can be caused by putting windows up at same time, did it before when I would put the blinker on. After it "shuts off", the controls come on for the heat and both sides are on and set at 74 degrees (even if I didn't even have the heat on). One side of the car blows hot and the other cold. I also had a previous issue with the Bluetooth not working right, always having to reset it. It never seems to be the same thing. It's been happening on and off for 3 months now.
It's been to 2 different dealers. This past time, they replaced an actuator for the heat issue. They also checked all grounds for wiring, checked and greased the engine control module connector, and cleaned throttle plate. I got back in my car to take it home and after I turned it on, I turned it off to check it and the radio shut completely down (it's supposed to stay on until you open doors). I called GMC and got a reference case number. This thread has been viewed over 21,000 times so I assume there is a reoccurring issue here. Love my Yukon up until this. Some say it's the body control module, but I haven't see that as a definite. Anyone have a definite answer to this?
I'm having the same issues as the rest of you: doors locking and unlocking, car shutting down, radio powers off, car powers off, can be caused by putting windows up at same time, did it before when I would put the blinker on. After it "shuts off", the controls come on for the heat and both sides are on and set at 74 degrees (even if I didn't even have the heat on). One side of the car blows hot and the other cold. I also had a previous issue with the Bluetooth not working right, always having to reset it. It never seems to be the same thing. It's been happening on and off for 3 months now.
It's been to 2 different dealers. This past time, they replaced an actuator for the heat issue. They also checked all grounds for wiring, checked and greased the engine control module connector, and cleaned throttle plate. I got back in my car to take it home and after I turned it on, I turned it off to check it and the radio shut completely down (it's supposed to stay on until you open doors). I called GMC and got a reference case number. This thread has been viewed over 21,000 times so I assume there is a reoccurring issue here. Love my Yukon up until this. Some say it's the body control module, but I haven't see that as a definite. Anyone have a definite answer to this?
I had a PRNDL switch go out on a transmission once that would cause the door locks, the gear shifter indicator, lights, to go crazy. I swore the car was possessed... Turned out that moisture had gotten inside the switch, and a little corrosion mixed with moisture caused it to flip out.
IIRC the gages would go to zero, come back up like I turned off the car and everything... it was so darned strange... the locks would lock, unlock, lock, lock, unlock, unlock....
The biggest problem new cars have is how everything is tied to everything else. You get one bad component that is completely unrelated and it will not run or completely flip out. Did you know that the Ford GT that was made a few years back would not start or run without the instrument cluster?
I miss the old days to where if you remove the radio the lights would still come on,
IIRC the gages would go to zero, come back up like I turned off the car and everything... it was so darned strange... the locks would lock, unlock, lock, lock, unlock, unlock....
The biggest problem new cars have is how everything is tied to everything else. You get one bad component that is completely unrelated and it will not run or completely flip out. Did you know that the Ford GT that was made a few years back would not start or run without the instrument cluster?
I miss the old days to where if you remove the radio the lights would still come on,
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Figured my issue out
I think we finally found the problem. The alternator output was low when under heavy load, which is why things would start to fail when more accessories where activated (blinker, wipers, windows, accelerating, etc). They replaced the alternator and the battery and everything seems to be working thus far!
I think we finally found the problem. The alternator output was low when under heavy load, which is why things would start to fail when more accessories where activated (blinker, wipers, windows, accelerating, etc). They replaced the alternator and the battery and everything seems to be working thus far!
Good to hear, glad it was figured out...
I know on my 05 Buick Rainier, I can tell when the battery is going out, the DIC will refuse to come on... Change the battery and it is good to go. So it makes sense that if the Alt & Battery are weak that it will throw everything into a tizzy.
I know on my 05 Buick Rainier, I can tell when the battery is going out, the DIC will refuse to come on... Change the battery and it is good to go. So it makes sense that if the Alt & Battery are weak that it will throw everything into a tizzy.
