I'd buy whatever is a cheapest beater car local to you, say something 500-1000$. fix your truck and then sell the car for what you paid.
if you're stuck on those two trucks, it's a toss up to me. the 14 at 170k the converter in the tranny is about ready to lunch the whole thing if it hasn't already and been replaced (which would be good) .. rebuilds are what these days, $7k at a shop?
the hybrid down side is when it breaks, you'll probably have to fix it yourself. shops are mostly useless, luckily the tranny will probably give you 250k with fluid changes, but unless it's got a fresh battery in it, which it very well might for the year and miles, factor in $3k or so for one. they will come swap it in your drive way for you. if you care to look, fold the middle seat forward, pop the plastic up, it's just clipped in, grab and pull up. look for a stickers from a company. something like green cubes or something marketing green ness haha. on the battery case.
testing the battery is super simple,(or amazingly complex and time consuming as said above) but should have a scanner of some type that can read min and max cell voltage, any decent scanner should. few phone apps will preloaded, some you'll have to add manually but basically pull up min and max cell voltage data. drive it and watch when you load the battery by taking off in electrical mode and when it cranks the engine to start. if you see more than a half a volt different, it's not great. at 1v different it's on its last legs and you'll get the battery code soon enough.
the other none scanner way, just drive it for bit, run both front and back ac on max, stop at a red light for a bit in auto stop (when the engine off) .. when the light turns green take off gently enough it doesn't start the engine instantly, then when it does. is it smooth? you shouldn't even be able to tell it cranks, like my wife drives ours and she never knows if the engine is running or not and she's not completely clueless but it's all seamless to her. if you get a bucking while it's cranking the engine that means the battery is shot and it can't handle the load of accelerating the truck with one electric motor and cranking the engine with the other.
if you find hybrid stuff interesting, it's actually a well built hybrid even by today's standards. you won't find many hybrids that still had a decent tow rating and get almost double the around town mileage of the same non hybrid version.(helped by most of these get 10mpg in socoor mom hell around town lol) Sadly it's also late 1990 early 2000s tech battery limiting it all. it's basically a Gen 1/2 prius hybrid nmhi pack with a few extra cells for higher voltage but no more capacity. most of the fuel mileage savings is from the engines different cam and the tranny that uses it's electric motors to almost mimic a cvt tranny without the reliably issues and zero tow rating of an actual cvt.
my 0.2 is the chance of you buying either of these vehicles and ended up with 2 broken trucks is pretty high. I'd buy a beater and repair what you get. that said, I tend to always keep something around I can use as a back up beater if my daily cars break, makes owning old junk less stressful.
