200K+ club what oil you run in the heat ??

[bayareadude84]

In which case I'll 'generously' 'donate' whatever Castrol I have left to my nephew, who drives a 2000 Nissan Altima with under 95000 miles. It's as mechanically sound as it is mechanically B O R I N G.
For a '00 Nissan Altima, even a meh 0W30 would be better than the 99cent store motor oil that's likely in it now.

Agree!!! that generation of Japanese car will run almost anything........even Crisco lol

 

[bayareadude84]

My 2007 Yukon 5.3 has just over 301,000 miles. I bought it from the original owner who always used Valvoline 5w30 synthetic so that's what I've been using. Now that it's over 300k I may switch to their high mileage synthetic. I think it qualifies. I hear a little bit of lifter rattle on cold starts if it hasn't been driven for two or three days but only for a second or two. As soon as oil pressure comes up the rattle stops.

Cold start rattle??? possible camshaft/lifters ?? VERY common since your generation has that horrific AFM system.

I have heard VERY VERY good things about Valvoline advance syn having more moly/Boron but your rattle at cold starts nerves me lol

My burban stopped "cold slap" noise 80% once I went back to Magnatec


Dave

 

[Kenney]

Welp summer days are creeping up here in Oklahoma (Already had some 80 degree days)and wondering what motor oil you guys with 200K+ run in hot summer days ?? 90's/100's can stretch for MONTHS !!!



My 01 burb has 210K miles on the LM7 5.3 and Just did a Magnatec 10W30 oil change but starting to hear some lifter/piston slap with cold start ??? I have a CRAP LOAD of Clearance oil from Walmart 5W40 15W40, 10W40, 5W30 lol. I'm saving the Castrol Magnatec, Mobil 1 10W30, Valvoline full syn 10W30 and pennzoil 5W30 full syn in my private stash


Had enough of the heat and "other southern things" and moving back up north this year but still curious what you guys run with high miles ??


Dave

Look into amsoil its the best oil to put in any vehicle. Its 100% synthetic not like these other brands than say fully synthetic and is only 20% percent synthetic. You should check them out and oh yeah you can go 25000 miles without an oil change too but dont take my word for it look them up you will be surprised

 

[bayareadude84]

Look into amsoil its the best oil to put in any vehicle. Its 100% synthetic not like these other brands than say fully synthetic and is only 20% percent synthetic. You should check them out and oh yeah you can go 25000 miles without an oil change too but dont take my word for it look them up you will be surprised

yaaaaaaa I know ALL ABOUT Amsoil lol But its "not my cup of tee".


Besides I have like 500qts of misc oil to test out


Dave

 

[sdsuburb06]

Not saying it's the right way to go, but whatever is on sale! On my current 97 k1500 with the 5.7 and 245k miles, I've run at least 8 different brands of 5w30 and 10w30 conventional and synthetic just depending on what was really the best price. I've never personally seen any one brand or weight out perform the other in the summer months, always has burned about a quart every 4k miles, and I've run different interval changes over the years. Have never had to replace anything internally in this motor. I owned a 93 k1500 and a 99 half ton sierra and ran both those truck to over 235k before selling with no motor issues, and was never married to one specific oil with either pickup. All trucks were daily drivers and regularly towed a boat all summer. Just made sure I was never running low on the dipstick, and never found to have any issues or noticeable performance gains running all different brands.

 

[NickTransmissions]

240k on my ‘03 Tahoe. Castrol Synthetic 5w-30, changed every 5k miles. Been using that Castrol oil for over 100k miles, no oil-related issues, knock on wood…

 

[Marky Dissod]

Castrol Synthetic 5w30, changed every 5k miles.
Been using that Castrol oil for over 100k miles, no oil-related issues, knock on wood ...

If I remember correctly, Castrol lobbied to change the definition of the word 'synthetic' as applied to motor oil in the 2000s.
Originally 'synthetic' meant 'non-naturally occurring, synthesized in a lab from scratch'.
Castrol got that changed to also include 'naturally-occurring motor oil that has been subjected to sufficient laboratory procedures to improve performance' or some other horseschidt.

Brand loyalty in 2023 is like leaving the back door unlocked - makes it easier to get cheated (on) by unscrupulous companies that will lower their quality behind your back to raise their bottom line.

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

skip down to
"212. 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance (gold bottle), API SP, ILSAC GF-6 (this was NOT listed as 6A like other motor oils with the latest ILSAC certification), GM dexos 1 Gen 2, synthetic = 75,212 psi"

After reading that blog, I'll only use Castrol for top-off, never again for oil changes.
Generally prefer Quaker State / Valvoline / Pennzoil / Mobil1 synthetics, 0W30 or 5W30.
Once I understand that blog better, I'll consider use of 0W20 or 5W20 in the winter.

 

[NickTransmissions]

If I remember correctly, Castrol lobbied to change the definition of the word 'synthetic' as applied to motor oil in the 2000s.
Originally 'synthetic' meant 'non-naturally occurring, synthesized in a lab from scratch'.
Castrol got that changed to also include 'naturally-occurring motor oil that has been subjected to sufficient laboratory procedures to improve performance' or some other horseschidt.

Brand loyalty in 2023 is like leaving the back door unlocked - makes it easier to get cheated (on) by unscrupulous companies that will lower their quality behind your back to raise their bottom line.

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

skip down to
"212. 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance (gold bottle), API SP, ILSAC GF-6 (this was NOT listed as 6A like other motor oils with the latest ILSAC certification), GM dexos 1 Gen 2, synthetic = 75,212 psi"

After reading that blog, I'll only use Castrol for top-off, never again for oil changes.
Generally prefer Quaker State / Valvoline / Pennzoil / Mobil1 synthetics, 0W30 or 5W30.
Once I understand that blog better, I'll consider use of 0W20 or 5W20 in the winter.

I hear what you’re saying but there’s also “don’t fix what’s not broken”
I have had issues with Mobil One Synthetic 5w30. Wasnt holding its viscosity and oil pressure was dropping dangerously low in both vehicles I was using it in so switched to Castrol. Havent had any issues since.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I hear what you’re saying but there’s also “don’t fix what’s not broken”

Ever upgraded anything on any of your vehicles? Why'd'ya fix what wasn't broken THEN?

So long as you're still using Castrol, you haven't read that link yet, so you haven't 'heard what I'm saying' HERE about what Beyond Petrol has done to Castrol Motor oil while you weren't looking.

Is the Mobil1 that failed you
"5W30 Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP"
or was it an earlier formulation?
'cause I'd not be surprised if an earlier formulation (API SL or SM or SN) failed you.
I avoided Mobil1 back then too. I did not experience the faltering oil pressure / viscosity issues.
I simply heard about them and avoided Mobil1 til the latest formulation came out.

Do you think I did the right thing by avoiding that Mobil1 motor oil without having your experience personally?
Then maybe consider reading that link, investigate further regarding Castrol motor oils since 2015.

Trying to be constructively critical, not merely contrarian.
We all want our engines to last longer than GM wants them to - and yes I know some Mobil1 oils are GM-approved.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Ever upgraded anything on any of your vehicles? Why'd'ya fix what wasn't broken THEN?

So long as you're still using Castrol, you haven't read that link yet, so you haven't 'heard what I'm saying' HERE about what Beyond Petrol has done to Castrol Motor oil while you weren't looking.

Is the Mobil1 that failed you
"5W30 Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic, GM dexos1-Gen2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP"
or was it an earlier formulation?
'cause I'd not be surprised if an earlier formulation (API SL or SM or SN) failed you.
I avoided Mobil1 back then too. I did not experience the faltering oil pressure / viscosity issues.
I simply heard about them and avoided Mobil1 til the latest formulation came out.

Do you think I did the right thing by avoiding that Mobil1 motor oil without having your experience personally?
Then maybe consider reading that link, investigate further regarding Castrol motor oils since 2015.

Trying to be constructively critical, not merely contrarian.
We all want our engines to last longer than GM wants them to - and yes I know some Mobil1 oils are GM-approved.

Why are getting argumentative about it? Use whatever oil you’d like. OP asked for what folks were using and I provided what I use.