2010 Burb Misfire

[j91z28d1]

Great response, J91!

Do you know a source for the bushing to put under the oil pressure sensor?

Also, I'm not quite following you on which gasket(s) to slot. I assume you pull the VLOM. Is the gasket directly on the solenoid (under it as installed, over if you pull the VLOM and flip it solenoids-up).

Thanks,

B

Thanks

the youtube video in the post has a link in the description to his store. he's who sells the parts. if you don't need the release a stuck lifter tool just the oil bushing, I don't remember the price but it super cheap, like shipping is more than the part.

I'm pretty sure he shows what to clip in this video but definitely a few others. I would say click on his play lists and watch a few videos. see if it makes sense to you before you try it. I watched and felt like he knew what he was talking about and it made sense, but I also have only put about 12k miles on it since I followed his recommended stuff. so really only time will tell if in a another 100k if mine goes bad. I'm sure nothing is 100% but for minimal work, it seemed worth it. especially if you can't easily do the full delete.

his specialty seems to be when your lifter is already stuck, if you can catch it before it breaks the trays and eats everything up. he sells a harden rod you put done the oil hole to try and free up the stuck lifter, once it's unstuck you do the block off and gasket clip to hopefully keep it from sticking again. if you catch it before it sticks, that's even better.
but even he says a full delete is the best. it's just some trucks are so rotted out, cheap attempt to release the stuck litters keeps them out of a junk yard a few more years.

 

[TNBob]

Considering the labor to remove the heads, crank pulley, front cover, oil pump, etc. all over again when you're ready to do the delete... Yeah. You'll be RIGHT THERE doing what you've listed already.

All I can say for lifters is OEM. I believe Delphi makes the lifters. The safest bet is to get 'em from a reputable source. They won't be $150 for all 16, I can assure you that. Honestly, I think you'd be fine with just replacing the eight on the AFM cylinders. Texas Speed seems to be a reputable source for legit lifters. With all the other GM OEM parts Summit sells in their store-branded packages, I'd be inclined to believe their lifters are the same. I just searched "LS7 lifters" at summitracing.com. See if this link works: https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=ls7 lifters
That Summit Racing branded lifter and guide ("tray") kit looks enticing.

For a cam, I'd have to tag in James @swathdiver for recommendations. I believe you wanted/needed to stay as close to stock as possible (no custom tuning), yeah?

Oh- I'd also recommend a cover alignment kit. The front and rear covers and oil pan need to be held to very specific tolerances when positioning them. This is especially critical for the front and rear covers as the seals need to be perfectly centered on the crankshaft. The covers are positioned and tightened into place first, then the oil pan goes on. If you're one of those that torques down the oil pan then uses it to align the front and/or rear cover(s), you'll have leaking crank seals very soon. You can get machines aluminum blocks to align the covers for around $30. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Front-Cover-...nt+cover+alignment+tool&qid=1687999173&sr=8-3

Note: I've never used those alignment tools. I've always had the engines out and I do it by other, more time-consuming methods involving lots of measuring and checking and repeating using a straightedge, precision metric ruler, and light taps until I hit the center of the factory clearance/reveal specs.

All comments and recs below are for the 5. 3 you have (LMG, LC9, etc).

Agree, GM (or Delphi) lifters and trays only, no generics! Lifters p/n 12499225 for a set of 16, about $400. Trays 12595365, need 4 total. Summit, Scoggin-Dickey, Brian Tooley and Texas Speed are legit sources, many others as well.

On cams - you must replace the cam if doing DoD/AFM delete. The "stock replacement" cam is from the LMF and 4.8L non-AFM/VVT engines, GM p/n 12689035. That is guaranteed to work with or without VVT, no tuning. You *might* lose up to 5% on power/torque - can't confirm, probably not noticeable on a daily driver. Since you have a 2010, it should have VVT. You need to use a VVT cam or delete VVT - many threads on that, or Summit, TSR, BTR, S-D etc. can explain. If you have a non-VVT engine or delete VVT, the Gen 3 L33 cam with 3-bolt adapter is a good "stock" call. Melling makes a single-bolt clone.

Another popular VVT cam choice is the 6.0L cam, 12626660. It is closer in spec to the LMG/LC9 VVT cam. I am in the midst of this process but went for a complete engine rebuild. I bought both cams and rolled the dice - I had the 6.0 cam installed on the advice of another member. I hope to have the newly rebuilt engine fired up in a day or two, will report to the forum! Some people appear to have used the 6.2L L9H cam, 12711967. It's slightly more aggressive (more lift and duration), but I couldn't find enough data points on successful, no-tune installs to take the plunge. With aftermarket performance cams, there are more choices if you delete VVT. Comp Cams has some VVT options.

 

[TNBob]

PS I was after stock performance, kept VVT when deleting AFM. Used all OEM parts with a few select exceptions for the rebuild. If you have high miles, I recommend a valve job while you have the heads off - new seals, lapped valves, other parts as your machine shop recommends. Replace driver's-side valve cover with the updated design (probably p/n 12642655).

 

[solli5pack]

All comments and recs below are for the 5. 3 you have (LMG, LC9, etc).

Agree, GM (or Delphi) lifters and trays only, no generics! Lifters p/n 12499225 for a set of 16, about $400. Trays 12595365, need 4 total. Summit, Scoggin-Dickey, Brian Tooley and Texas Speed are legit sources, many others as well.

On cams - you must replace the cam if doing DoD/AFM delete. The "stock replacement" cam is from the LMF and 4.8L non-AFM/VVT engines, GM p/n 12689035. That is guaranteed to work with or without VVT, no tuning. You *might* lose up to 5% on power/torque - can't confirm, probably not noticeable on a daily driver. Since you have a 2010, it should have VVT. You need to use a VVT cam or delete VVT - many threads on that, or Summit, TSR, BTR, S-D etc. can explain. If you have a non-VVT engine or delete VVT, the Gen 3 L33 cam with 3-bolt adapter is a good "stock" call. Melling makes a single-bolt clone.

Another popular VVT cam choice is the 6.0L cam, 12626660. It is closer in spec to the LMG/LC9 VVT cam. I am in the midst of this process but went for a complete engine rebuild. I bought both cams and rolled the dice - I had the 6.0 cam installed on the advice of another member. I hope to have the newly rebuilt engine fired up in a day or two, will report to the forum! Some people appear to have used the 6.2L L9H cam, 12711967. It's slightly more aggressive (more lift and duration), but I couldn't find enough data points on successful, no-tune installs to take the plunge. With aftermarket performance cams, there are more choices if you delete VVT. Comp Cams has some VVT optio

All comments and recs below are for the 5. 3 you have (LMG, LC9, etc).

Agree, GM (or Delphi) lifters and trays only, no generics! Lifters p/n 12499225 for a set of 16, about $400. Trays 12595365, need 4 total. Summit, Scoggin-Dickey, Brian Tooley and Texas Speed are legit sources, many others as well.

On cams - you must replace the cam if doing DoD/AFM delete. The "stock replacement" cam is from the LMF and 4.8L non-AFM/VVT engines, GM p/n 12689035. That is guaranteed to work with or without VVT, no tuning. You *might* lose up to 5% on power/torque - can't confirm, probably not noticeable on a daily driver. Since you have a 2010, it should have VVT. You need to use a VVT cam or delete VVT - many threads on that, or Summit, TSR, BTR, S-D etc. can explain. If you have a non-VVT engine or delete VVT, the Gen 3 L33 cam with 3-bolt adapter is a good "stock" call. Melling makes a single-bolt clone.

Another popular VVT cam choice is the 6.0L cam, 12626660. It is closer in spec to the LMG/LC9 VVT cam. I am in the midst of this process but went for a complete engine rebuild. I bought both cams and rolled the dice - I had the 6.0 cam installed on the advice of another member. I hope to have the newly rebuilt engine fired up in a day or two, will report to the forum! Some people appear to have used the 6.2L L9H cam, 12711967. It's slightly more aggressive (more lift and duration), but I couldn't find enough data points on successful, no-tune installs to take the plunge. With aftermarket performance cams, there are more choices if you delete VVT. Comp Cams has some VVT options.

Thanks for the info. Are the trays different for the performance lifters? The part #'s I have for the trays are 12669184 & 12669185. Two each

 

[swathdiver]

"Thanks for the info. Are the trays different for the performance lifters? The part #'s I have for the trays are 12669184 & 12669185. Two each"

2 Trays are for the regular lifters and two trays for the AFM lifters. So now you need 4 new trays for the regular lifters.

 

[solli5pack]

Fa

"Thanks for the info. Are the trays different for the performance lifters? The part #'s I have for the trays are 12669184 & 12669185. Two each"

2 Trays are for the regular lifters and two trays for the AFM lifters. So now you need 4 new trays for the regular lifters

DAMM IT!! I ordered the trays before I decided to do the delete! Do you know if the trays are the same for the stock non AFM lifters and the GM performance lifters? I'm still debating if I should get 8 stock non AFM lifters and keep my original ones or go for the 16 pack of performance lifters. It's about a $150 difference.

"Thanks for the info. Are the trays different for the performance lifters? The part #'s I have for the trays are 12669184 & 12669185. Two each"

2 Trays are for the regular lifters and two trays for the AFM lifters. So now you need 4 new trays for the regular lifters.

 

[solli5pack]

The $17 oil pressure sensor showed up. Seems legit.

 

[swathdiver]

Fa

Do you know if the trays are the same for the stock non AFM lifters and the GM performance lifters?

I'd replace all of the lifters. Never heard if there are different trays for regular lifters.

@Just Fishing @Geotrash @iamdub

 

[Just Fishing]

Might as well do all of the lifters, usually they come in a full set either way.

these I found were a perfect match for the non AFM lifters in my 09 tahoe

Summit Racing SUM-HT217-16 Summit Racing™ Performance LS7 Hydraulic Lifters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Performance LS7 Hydraulic Lifters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Lifters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

These are supposed to be heavy/double valve spring friendly if you go that route.

Only lifter trays that are different are the AFM lifter trays, standard lifter trays are standard lifter trays.
Just spend the extra $$ and get the actual GM ones.

 

[solli5pack]

Might as well do all of the lifters, usually they come in a full set either way.

these I found were a perfect match for the non AFM lifters in my 09 tahoe

Summit Racing SUM-HT217-16 Summit Racing™ Performance LS7 Hydraulic Lifters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Performance LS7 Hydraulic Lifters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Lifters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

These are supposed to be heavy/double valve spring friendly if you go that route.

Only lifter trays that are different are the AFM lifter trays, standard lifter trays are standard lifter trays.
Just spend the extra $$ and get the actual GM ones.

So we trust the Summit lifters? I was going to stick to GM but they are expensive AF. Right now I plan on using the 12689035 GM cam. If the concensus is Summit is quality I could use the saved money. The P/S pump on my Yukon sprung a leak today!