2011 Escalade ESV Engine Replacement

[ray.malone]

Well I've been a member for a while but haven't posted...

We have a 2011 ESV, no major issues until last week we started her up and she sounded like a locomotive. Turns out the lifters are bad and it has pitting in the camshaft. Translation, rebuild the top end or buy a new engine.

She has 141k miles (60k from us), leaning towards about $8,100 to swap it out with a new motor with a 3 yr 100k mile warranty vs the $6-7k rebuild option.

Curious if anyone else has done this or if I'm crazy for doing it, it's paid off and has new shocks, tires and control arm bushings and a recent trans service so it seems like it's worth it, vs the $800-ish monthly payment for another extended GM to take it's place (have a family of 6 with two not in school yet so we need the room, and no we won't drive a minivan lol)

 

[iamdub]

Well I've been a member for a while but haven't posted...

We have a 2011 ESV, no major issues until last week we started her up and she sounded like a locomotive. Turns out the lifters are bad and it has pitting in the camshaft. Translation, rebuild the top end or buy a new engine.

She has 141k miles (60k from us), leaning towards about $8,100 to swap it out with a new motor with a 3 yr 100k mile warranty vs the $6-7k rebuild option.

Curious if anyone else has done this or if I'm crazy for doing it, it's paid off and has new shocks, tires and control arm bushings and a recent trans service so it seems like it's worth it, vs the $800-ish monthly payment for another extended GM to take it's place (have a family of 6 with two not in school yet so we need the room, and no we won't drive a minivan lol)

IMO and what I would do,

At 141K, the bottom end should have lots of life left in it. I'd cut open the oil filter and have an oil analysis done to see how much metal content is in the oil. If nothing condemning there, tear it down as if to do an AFM delete and let the condition of the cam bearings decide. If the bearings are ok, proceed with the AFM delete and you should be good to go for another 141K miles or more.

The AFM delete parts are around $1,000 and I've seen the labor at shop run anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 in my area.


If the bottom end condition is questionable, I'd get a verifiably good/warrantied low-mileage replacement from a reputable salvage yard, AFM delete it, and swap it in.

 

[avalonandl]

Rebuild would be much cheaper. 8 K is top of the mark. Rebuilt engine about 4500.....

 

[Geotrash]

We have a 2011 ESV, no major issues until last week we started her up and she sounded like a locomotive. Turns out the lifters are bad and it has pitting in the camshaft. Translation, rebuild the top end or buy a new engine.

How do you know that the lifters are bad and the camshaft is pitted? There is no way to know that for sure without cutting open the oil filter and confirming the source of any metal found with a partial disassembly of the top end or at least a boroscope. Lots of reasons for these engines to make a lot of noise at startup ranging from nothing to worry about to quick action needed.

 

[ray.malone]

IMO and what I would do,

At 141K, the bottom end should have lots of life left in it. I'd cut open the oil filter and have an oil analysis done to see how much metal content is in the oil. If nothing condemning there, tear it down as if to do an AFM delete and let the condition of the cam bearings decide. If the bearings are ok, proceed with the AFM delete and you should be good to go for another 141K miles or more.

The AFM delete parts are around $1,000 and I've seen the labor at shop run anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 in my area.


If the bottom end condition is questionable, I'd get a verifiably good/warrantied low-mileage replacement from a reputable salvage yard, AFM delete it, and swap it in.

Thanks for the info, not sure how to tell if the bottom end is in good working order, I assumed something on the bottom end may have contributed to the failure but found this trying to confirm what AFM was https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017...ble-active-fuel-management-afm-on-gm-engines/

Didn't realize the AFM lifters were more prone to failure.

What's your take on the recommendation to switch to a standard volume oil pump?

 

[ray.malone]

How do you know that the lifters are bad and the camshaft is pitted? There is no way to know that for sure without cutting open the oil filter and confirming the source of any metal found with a partial disassembly of the top end or at least a boroscope. Lots of reasons for these engines to make a lot of noise at startup ranging from nothing to worry about to quick action needed.

Dealer said when they removed the valve cover it was visible.

 

[ray.malone]

Rebuild would be much cheaper. 8 K is top of the mark. Rebuilt engine about 4500.....

Two dealers and a reputable local shop all quoted in mid to high 6k, some is the caddy tax I'm sure, I hate that I love that thing lol

 

[ray.malone]

If I do still opt for the new engine, wonder if its worth the plug-in AFM disabler (also mentioned in the link I sent)?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[wjburken]

Dealer said when they removed the valve cover it was visible.

I’m not sure you can see anything regarding the lifters or camshaft by just pulling the valve cover. Granted, it’s been a awhile since I’ve had a valve cover off, but the only thing I can remember seeing is the push rods. The lifters are buried under the heads and the camshaft is embedded in the block. If they took the intake manifold off and the VLOM off, they might have been able to get a peek at something.

As far as replace vs rebuild, as folks have said, you need to cut open your oil filter and possibly drop your oil pan to see what kind of debris you find.

I was able to replace the camshaft and lifters in my 2007 6.2L for around $2000 in parts and fluids and my labor after I had a roller lock up on a lifter and scrub my cam.

 

[Doubeleive]

if the motor is really that gone, I would just go for a rebuilt one, if your going to have to pay out of pocket I would just go with a motor that has already been rebuilt and send the old motor in for the core, a rebuilt motor should last just as long or longer than a new motor and may even have a couple motor pony's from being bored out.