2011 Tahoe AFM rebuild

[RadarLuv]

Posted this in the wrong section before so here it is again.

I am pretty sure I have the dreaded AFM problems with my 2011. Mechanic say one of the cylinders has lost compression and it runs ruff at idle. I just rolled over 160k miles. After reading through a bunch of post on here I know I should get something like the kit on amazon to fix the initial problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Lifter-Replac...UTF8&qid=1452702416&sr=1-3&keywords=chevy+afm

I Haul a 18' enclosed work trailer filled with construction tools a lot so while its in the shop would like to do some upgrading. From what I have read here I should probably keep the stock headers or short tube headers to keep low end torque. So pretty sure I want to do:

Intake
exhaust header back or just replace muffler and do the resonator delete
Black Bear tune.

Deleting the AFM would be part of the tune. So I guess my question Is that kit what I should use or is there a different one that should be used with the planned delete. I am not apposed to replacing the cam if it would give me some low end gains for trailer hauling and completely delete the AFM.

I am a carpenter by trade so I need help putting together a complete parts list for the rebuild, My mechanic owes me some favors so I just need to get the parts together and let him at it. I know there are a lot of threads about this problem and about exhaust and cams Just need some help getting all that in one place specific to my 2011 so I can get this truck back to work. Thanks for the help.

 

[Jason_S]

Rebuilding your engine back to anything other than stock would probably affect your resale value. Up or down will depend on the buyer.

That being said, if you are planning to delete the AFM anyways, keep you 'truck' for a while and don't care to/ intend to ever reenable the AFM, then I would skip reinstalling the AFM parts. Throw standard (non AFM) lifters in it with a mild cam. If your cam is still good, then you can probably go for a regrind from Delta or similar.

You could also source a good 6.0L short block and get better power and depending on the source you wont have to worry about removing the AFM hardware. This is the direction that I would plan to go for a personal vehicle. Especially considering that some AFM failures also included scored cylinders.

 

[aflumb]

Honestly if it was me, I would get rid of the AFM all together if I was in your shoes. Look at Texas Speed. They have a whole kit put together. You can even change the cam. I would give them a call and let them know what your intentions are and how you use the truck.
My 2012 has had the afm turned off since around 16K miles. Truck has somewhere around 36K today. The catch can has not been emptied since i put it on at 28K. I think it has a lot to do with the AFM being turned off

 

[RadarLuv]

I think I will try to get a hold of Texas speed i cant find a specific package for an 11 hopefully they can put something together. Thanks for the suggestions switching to a 6.0 is probably more than I want to get into right now