2012 Denali Front & Rear Suspension

[Millennium Falcon]

I just had the bulk of the front end of my '09 rebuilt using a collection of Delco, Moog, Napa, and Timken parts. I've been sitting on these parts for a while trying to find time to do it, and ultimately, I just paid a shop to get it done. I got myself bent over a barrel to the tune of $1400 for the job. The biggest issue with doing it myself (aside from time) was that I live 30 miles from the nearest alignment shop, and I didn't want to drive that far on a maybe close eyeball alignment in my driveway.

I sourced the parts from Amazon, Napa, and RockAuto. I used Moog for the control arms because I wanted to be able to grease the joints. I used Timken hub assemblies because I've had good luck with them. Everything else I based on reviews.

The guy I use as my mechanic for the things for which I don't have the tools suggested I should have bought a new rack and pinion unit with the inner tie rods/bellows already installed. I didn't think about that, and with 200k miles, it was a good suggestion.

 

[Pointer 21]

@swathdiver I'm actually doing this same exercise on a older polaris I am working on...In other words it gets FRUSTRATING getting these parts in and THE RIGHT PARTS.
The shipping is what made the orders costly from other sources aside from RA.

On the uppers are we going with forged? I believe the mechanic said "the magnet" was the way to tell?? Any input there?

 

[Pointer 21]

I just had the bulk of the front end of my '09 rebuilt using a collection of Delco, Moog, Napa, and Timken parts. I've been sitting on these parts for a while trying to find time to do it, and ultimately, I just paid a shop to get it done. I got myself bent over a barrel to the tune of $1400 for the job. The biggest issue with doing it myself (aside from time) was that I live 30 miles from the nearest alignment shop, and I didn't want to drive that far on a maybe close eyeball alignment in my driveway.

I sourced the parts from Amazon, Napa, and RockAuto. I used Moog for the control arms because I wanted to be able to grease the joints. I used Timken hub assemblies because I've had good luck with them. Everything else I based on reviews.

The guy I use as my mechanic for the things for which I don't have the tools suggested I should have bought a new rack and pinion unit with the inner tie rods/bellows already installed. I didn't think about that, and with 200k miles, it was a good suggestion.

I hear you - There are mixed reviews/feeling on assembled parts. I could've done this a longgg time ago and been out pain free.

I'll let the gurus advise to this point; however, with this board as a resource it's more assuring. I owe @swathdiver and a few others gift cards and personal handshake for the advice through these projects where these mechanics are trying to get over on you (happens way too much).

 

[Doubeleive]

unless you live in the rust belt you don't need 1/2 of that stuff, nuts and bolts and several other parts can be re used.
rear control arms probably do not need to be replaced unless you can see the bushings wiped out otherwise they are very stout, same with the panhard, even the springs are questionable to be replaced front or rear. I would stick with the guts of the system. shocks front/rear, air compressor (if operation is questionable), upper lower controls (front)
front struts can be rebuilt using all the original parts except the shock it's self, again inspect the old parts first if they are not cracked or show other signs of distress then they are fine. Steering parts do wear out so those can/should be replaced.

 

[Pointer 21]

unless you live in the rust belt you don't need 1/2 of that stuff, nuts and bolts and several other parts can be re used.
rear control arms probably do not need to be replaced unless you can see the bushings wiped out otherwise they are very stout, same with the panhard, even the springs are questionable to be replaced front or rear. I would stick with the guts of the system. shocks front/rear, air compressor (if operation is questionable), upper lower controls (front)
front struts can be rebuilt using all the original parts except the shock it's self, again inspect the old parts first if they are not cracked or show other signs of distress then they are fine. Steering parts do wear out so those can/should be replaced.

I live close to the coast (about an hour from Galveston).

Mechanic A: "All I needed was":

Ball joints: $961.96 (INSTALLED MOOG)
Front Stabilizer Links: $177.93 (Installed Moog)
Front Struts: $1,407.84 (I think OEM)
Shocks REAR: $1,295.45 (I think OEM)

Total = $3,843.17

Mechanic B:

ALL MOOG ASSEMBLED- Upper and Lower Control Arms = $1250.00
Front Struts: Originally quoted Dorman at $850.00 (SAID I WANTED OEM AND HE SAID SAME PRICE) **SOUNDS FISHY**

FRONT END TOTAL = $2100.00

Mechanic C:

An Actual Referral that hasn't scene the vehicle but knows I'm particular)

I supply parts:

Front end:
Struts = 1.6 hrs = $148.80
Lower Ball Joints = 4.2 hrs = $390.60

I'm inclined to get the parts and let Mechanic C do everything knowing what is going on the vehicle and that he is at $93.00/hr. which I would think would be the cheapest but still running numbers.....

 

[swathdiver]

On the uppers are we going with forged? I believe the mechanic said "the magnet" was the way to tell?? Any input there?

They listed welded uppers and forged. If you don't see weld marks near the bushings, use the forged ones. I do not know if they are both compatible with the same or use different knuckles, otherwise I would prefer forged. Unless we're jumping berms or running through the Baja Peninsula at 60 mph, does it really even matter? LOL

 

[swathdiver]

I live close to the coast (about an hour from Galveston).

Mechanic A: "All I needed was":

Ball joints: $961.96 (INSTALLED MOOG)
Front Stabilizer Links: $177.93 (Installed Moog)
Front Struts: $1,407.84 (I think OEM)
Shocks REAR: $1,295.45 (I think OEM)

Total = $3,843.17

Mechanic B:

ALL MOOG ASSEMBLED- Upper and Lower Control Arms = $1250.00
Front Struts: Originally quoted Dorman at $850.00 (SAID I WANTED OEM AND HE SAID SAME PRICE) **SOUNDS FISHY**

FRONT END TOTAL = $2100.00

Mechanic C:

An Actual Referral that hasn't scene the vehicle but knows I'm particular)

I supply parts:

Front end:
Struts = 1.6 hrs = $148.80
Lower Ball Joints = 4.2 hrs = $390.60

I'm inclined to get the parts and let Mechanic C do everything knowing what is going on the vehicle and that he is at $93.00/hr. which I would think would be the cheapest but still running numbers.....

The trouble I would have is which Moog parts? Which "OE"? Moog has the better CK line and the economy, I'm going to sell it tomorrow, RK line and along the same lines, there is GM Original Equipment, ACDelco Professional/Gold (sometimes same as OE) and then there is ACDelco Silver. All different levels of quality and pricing and unless specified, which do you think a shop would use to maximize its profits?

 

[Pointer 21]

The trouble I would have is which Moog parts? Which "OE"? Moog has the better CK line and the economy, I'm going to sell it tomorrow, RK line and along the same lines, there is GM Original Equipment, ACDelco Professional/Gold (sometimes same as OE) and then there is ACDelco Silver. All different levels of quality and pricing and unless specified, which do you think a shop would use to maximize its profits?

I had a mechanic a few months back cuss me for asking which MOOG parts he was putting on.....Guess I'm a control freak and/or have trust issues because I don't believe them at all.

That said - I do think I found the right guy in Mechanic C (referenced above) that will let me supply the parts and has been verified as an honest person.

Just need to get the parts in!!!

 

[Pointer 21]

Considering I have OEM 22 inch rims that were an upgrade item when I built the vehicle, should I upgrade any parts to compensate for the rims?

 

[swathdiver]

Considering I have OEM 22 inch rims that were an upgrade item when I built the vehicle, should I upgrade any parts to compensate for the rims?

I wouldn't know.