2012 Denali Front & Rear Suspension

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I just had the bulk of the front end of my '09 rebuilt using a collection of Delco, Moog, Napa, and Timken parts. I've been sitting on these parts for a while trying to find time to do it, and ultimately, I just paid a shop to get it done. I got myself bent over a barrel to the tune of $1400 for the job. The biggest issue with doing it myself (aside from time) was that I live 30 miles from the nearest alignment shop, and I didn't want to drive that far on a maybe close eyeball alignment in my driveway.

I sourced the parts from Amazon, Napa, and RockAuto. I used Moog for the control arms because I wanted to be able to grease the joints. I used Timken hub assemblies because I've had good luck with them. Everything else I based on reviews.

The guy I use as my mechanic for the things for which I don't have the tools suggested I should have bought a new rack and pinion unit with the inner tie rods/bellows already installed. I didn't think about that, and with 200k miles, it was a good suggestion.
@Millennium Falcon _Is there a rack and pinion unit with inner tie rods/bellows already installed (ie a kit) ???
 

Joseph Garcia

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I hear you - There are mixed reviews/feeling on assembled parts. I could've done this a longgg time ago and been out pain free.

I'll let the gurus advise to this point; however, with this board as a resource it's more assuring. I owe @swathdiver and a few others gift cards and personal handshake for the advice through these projects where these mechanics are trying to get over on you (happens way too much).
You do owe @swathdiver something. :) This parts search exercise that he performed for you is no small task. He's been a tremendous resource to me with my 2007 Yukon XL Denali.

I recently did a complete suspension rebuild on my truck, and I used all GM/AcDelco parts, except for the front springs which are Moog (GM no longer manufactures the front springs for my truck), and the compressor, which is Dorman.

I replaced the upper and lower control arms in the front, but did not change the trailing arms in the back. I replaced all components, as I did not know the previous owner's driving habits, and I was fortunate to have the needed cash available. However, as @Doubeleive suggested you can limit the number of parts replaced, to be in balance with your own budget to complete the project.

I had a shop do the front with my purchased parts, as I don't have a large capacity spring compressor nor an alignment machine. I did the rear components myself.

I purchased all of my parts from Rock Auto, GMPartsDirect, and GMPartsGiant. My total freight costs were approximately 10% of the total parts costs.

If you have any questions regarding your project, let me know.
 
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nothing would be any different unless you are running oversize tires then you could just use a leveling kit
I'm currently on 285-45-22 and would like to level; however, I don't want to sacrifice ride too much. Considering my rims are I believe 22 X 9, I'm not sure what direction I'll go. I don't think 33's or 305's would look good was just a level. Not sure what's in between that?!
 
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nothing would be any different unless you are running oversize tires then you could just use a leveling kit

You do owe @swathdiver something. :) This parts search exercise that he performed for you is no small task. He's been a tremendous resource to me with my 2007 Yukon XL Denali.

I recently did a complete suspension rebuild on my truck, and I used all GM/AcDelco parts, except for the front springs which are Moog (GM no longer manufactures the front springs for my truck), and the compressor, which is Dorman.

I replaced the upper and lower control arms in the front, but did not change the trailing arms in the back. I replaced all components, as I did not know the previous owner's driving habits, and I was fortunate to have the needed cash available. However, as @Doubeleive suggested you can limit the number of parts replaced, to be in balance with your own budget to complete the project.

I had a shop do the front with my purchased parts, as I don't have a large capacity spring compressor nor an alignment machine. I did the rear components myself.

I purchased all of my parts from Rock Auto, GMPartsDirect, and GMPartsGiant. My total freight costs were approximately 10% of the total parts costs.

If you have any questions regarding your project, let me know.
@swathdiver @Joseph Garcia @Doubeleive - YES I OWE MR. SWATHDIVER A COLD BEER AND I'M STILL RACKING MY HEAD.

Check out the the attached:

1.) Parts list from RockAuto (Took a Stab at it with some hiccups I'm sure)

2.) Spoke with the dealer this AM - "STEALERSHIP" with a HIGH QUOTE that I narrowed down to the Necessities hoping I can salvage some parts.


Any input from you gents is much appreciated - I'm ready to pull the trigger but damn sure got to get it right!!
 

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  • 2012- Yukon Denali Dealership Quote.PDF
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  • RockAuto - 2012 Yukon Denali Suspension.pdf
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Doubeleive

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I'm currently on 285-45-22 and would like to level; however, I don't want to sacrifice ride too much. Considering my rims are I believe 22 X 9, I'm not sure what direction I'll go. I don't think 33's or 305's would look good was just a level. Not sure what's in between that?!
I don't know diddly about tires but I have ran 305's on my 1500 pickups and only had minor rubbing at full lock I'm fairly certain the clearance is not much different on the SUV's
 
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Joseph Garcia

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I run 305/50x 20 tires on my truck with no rubbing and a stock ride height. I believe that you could run 305/45x22 tires with no rubbing, as well.

Also, don't buy parts from the dealer at dealer's prices. The previously mentioned web vendors listed above will have much lower prices (approx. 30% savings) for the exact same part.

Also, these replacements do not have to be performed at a dealer, and you will save additional money, if you have have any of the work done at a reputable auto mechanic shop.
 
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I run 305/50x 20 tires on my truck with no rubbing and a stock ride height. I believe that you could run 305/45x22 tires with no rubbing, as well.

Also, don't buy parts from the dealer at dealer's prices. The previously mentioned web vendors listed above will have much lower prices (approx. 30% savings) for the exact same part.

Also, these replacements do not have to be performed at a dealer, and you will save additional money, if you have have any of the work done at a reputable auto mechanic shop.
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This is what I would purchase as opposed to the comprehensive list. Anything I should add? For not too much more I can get every part that @swathdiver referenced....
 
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Millennium Falcon

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I'll let the gurus advise to this point; however, with this board as a resource it's more assuring. I owe @swathdiver and a few others gift cards and personal handshake for the advice through these projects where these mechanics are trying to get over on you (happens way too much).

Apologies to anyone who may have been offended by my post. It absolutely was not my intention to diminish anything others have posted here, especially swathdiver and others. They have provided me with invaluable info whenever I've had questions about my vehicle, and they are important resources on this site.
 
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Apologies to anyone who may have been offended by my post. It absolutely was not my intention to diminish anything others have posted here, especially swathdiver and others. They have provided me with invaluable info whenever I've had questions about my vehicle, and they are important resources on this site.
No offense on this side and I may have posed the question wrong.....I'm going cross eyed with the cross referencing of the parts. It's all opinions on what is needed and where you can save a buck. I've learned so much here and am saving a TON of money that I'm glad I had yall's help with.........The dang dealership has been misquoting me with wrong parts. Can't say thank you guys enough!!


@Millennium Falcon - Is there a rack and pinion kit available? You mentioned the mechanic bringing it up on your build (I believe)?
 

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