swathdiver
Full Access Member
Ok, all the parts/part numbers look right to me. I don't see the jounce bumpers listed, you need them too, especially up front. Mine were wore out and falling apart. You are lucky to be able to get all the parts from one vendor!
My coil springs damaged the insulators over the years and re-using them would probably have left me looking for squeaks. They were wore through in some places. The cone shaped one that goes in the strut assembly was almost gone, it was falling apart.
I could have re-used my alignment cams but used the new ones. We did not need to use the alignment guide pins or the lower control arm bolts.
My truck looked like it was sagging up front and was sagging while towing. The new front coils picked up the front end only about 5/16 of an inch and a little more in the rear but the back doesn't sag while towing now.
Get a 36mm crows foot wrench to do the inner tie rod. We used a 1/2 drive type and a BIG adjustable pliers that opened up to 40 mm. Problem with the latter was that it only worked on one side as the other side it was clocked differently. The crow's foot ought to be small enough no matter the position.
I bought a nice set of Knipex pliers (1099i220) to set those clamps on the boots. The boots also come with clamps. Better than tie straps which can leak. The OE boots are also noticeably better in quality over the ACDelco, I bought them both just to see.
How are you going to assemble the front struts? I was going to purchase the KTool 70372 but read it might be too small and was looking to save a few dollars as prices were rising on this project daily! Instead, I purchased the OEM Tools 27036 and it too was too small for our coils. I had to grind down the chrome pins about 1/2 way to get the springs secured in place. Man that thing scares me! Still does seeing it get all twisted and bent, just waiting for it to blow up in my face! It never did but don't think I'll use it ever again. Next time I'll buy the OTC Clamshell type, like the KTool.
On my build page called "Useless Information" you'll find a write up about doing all this work and the tools and torque specs. They all won't be the same for yours, especially the strut nut but you can use it as a guide to double check yours.
FYI: That lower control arm part number 45D2471/19313224 and 45D2472/19313221 are ACDelco Professional parts, the exact same part as Moog CK620956 and CK620955.
We replaced the panhard rod, aka track bar, because it was rusty and the bushings were beginning to crack. We'll eventually replace the other 4 control arms when I swap out differentials. Last time I looked, the bushings were fine.
The two mounts that hold my front differential will need replacing soon. We took out the front differential to replace the engine oil cooler and transmission oil cooler lines and discovered that. Those will get replaced when we re-gear unless it becomes necessary sooner.
After all this done and it comes to the alignment, I suggest not settling for just getting the settings in the green. I demanded specific numbers and after talking with the technician and coming to an agreement, got a great alignment. This was entrusted to my local GM dealership.
Our alignment settings are tire specific. I do not assume the alignment guys know this or bother to look it up.
