2013 Escalade ESV Next BIG adventure: Cooling system refresh, Big 3 Electrical upgrade, Reseal intake, and VLOM mod...

[skpyle]

Looks good. Hopefully the taped ends don't put too much stress on the wiring where it enters the plug.

I am curious, on the wire harness where it connects to the throttle body. Did you replace that loom as well? Did you notice any kind of splicing in that area of that pigtail? Or differences in the color coding of the wire sheaths?

Thanks!

Are you referring to this taped end:



Or this taped end:




The first one is the MAF sensor plug, taped by me. The factory thin electrical tape was wrapped this tight as well. I think it will be OK.
The second one is a fuel injector plug. That thicker gray looking tape is OEM. I did not do that.


I am pretty sure I reloomed the throttle body wiring. I didn't look at the wire colors, as I did not suspect any issues. However, for giggles, I will look at the wiring diagram for the throttle body plug and compare it to what I have.

 

[skpyle]

This is a great detailed thread an your posts are so entertaining!

Where did you get that red battery post protector? I am in need of one.

Sorry I did not answer your question @89Suburban

That red battery post cover is OEM. I cannot find it separately, but it is part of GM 22790285 Cable Assembly - Starter Solenoid.
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-cable-22790285.html?vin=1GYS4JEF1DR313005&make=Light Truck&model=Suburban / Yukon XL / Escalade ESV - 06 Bodystyle (4WD / AWD)&year=2013&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

 

[skpyle]

I am curious, on the wire harness where it connects to the throttle body. Did you replace that loom as well? Did you notice any kind of splicing in that area of that pigtail? Or differences in the color coding of the wire sheaths?

@89Suburban


I got a closer look at the throttle body plug and its wiring. As far as I can tell, it is all OEM. I found no evidence of splicing, or even the Weatherpak plug being disassembled.

I found the color diagram and was able to confirm the same number of wires and the same color wires. However, I found no identifying characters on the plug backshell lock where the wires go in.

 

[skpyle]

Alright...bad news and good news.

Bad news: for the third time I have tried to remove the rear heater core hose quick disconnect fittings. And for the third time, I have failed. I brought home my 90 degree bent long handled needle nose pliers. However, even with them, I just cannot get a good grip on the locks. Or at least I think I can't. As well, the rear of the passenger's side rear wheelwell liner is in the way of the pliers handle.
I have given up for now. I will jack up the back, remove the passenger's side rear wheel, remove the liner, and then try again.

Good news: IT RUNS!!!

 

[skpyle]

I awoke Friday afternoon to get ready to go to work. And had a message waiting on my phone. My fuel injectors were done! Shop said they all flowed reasonably close. Then they cleaned the injectors and replaced the filter baskets. Then all 8 injectors flowed the same. They installed the new GM O-rings and called the injectors done. Works for me. I left early and picked them up on the way to work.

Saturday morning, after work and before I laid down for a nap, I assembled the intake manifold. Fuel rail, schrader valve and cap, injectors and locks, MAP sensor, evap purge solenoid, power brake vacuum hose, new intake gaskets, and the intake manifold bolts.

I tried a trick for the intake manifold bolts. I removed them to make it easier to remove the manifold. Same logic says I should install the manifold THEN install the bolts. However, I wasn't looking forward to trying to manipulate the bolts down into the intake with it in place atop the engine. I hit on an idea: clothes pins. I used small wooden clothes to hold each bolt and sleeve up some in the intake.
That worked a treat!



8 cleaned and prepped fuel injectors. Mucho goodo.



Cleaned and reassembled intake manifold.



New GM intake manifold gaskets 19207929. Note: I did not reinstall the two foam 'air dams' under the intake manifold.



Clothes pins on the intake manifold bolt sleeves.



After my nap, and some time to become a functioning human being again, I was back out at it.

I blew all the leaves, debris, and dust that had collected on top of the engine since disassembly.
Just because, I verified torque of 18 ft/lbs(216 in/lbs) on all the VLOM mounting bolts. Just because.
Removed the blue tape from the intake ports, then all eight rags from the intake ports. Made sure nothing was in any port. Wiped the head surfaces down with brake cleaner, and was ready to install the intake.




Cylinder heads ready to receive the intake manifold.

 

[skpyle]

All the prep work done, I slammed the intake into place!

Not really. To me, it was harder to install the intake manifold than it had been to remove it. Seemed to hang up on the harness more and required a little more wiggling. Regardless, I got it in. Took a little wiggling to start all 10 intake manifold bolts in their holes. I was able to reach all ten clothes pins with no real trouble.

I laboriously ran each intake manifold bolt down snug by hand with a long 1/4" drive extension and 8mm socket. Then torqued them to 44 in/lbs and then finally to 89 in/lbs, in the sequence from the service manual. Access was much better this time with the wiring harness not locked down. (Back in November of 2021, I checked intake manifold bolt torque. It was a maze to navigate to get the torque wrench and extension in.) I could move it around as I needed to get the torque wrench and extension in to each bolt. Still a bit of a pain in the kazooie, though.




Installed intake manifold. I had a photo of the service manual torquing sequence on my phone for guidance.


Reinstalled the throttle body with a new gasket.



New GM 12589235 throttle body gasket. I cleaned the throttle body last month before starting all this work, so it is good.


I routed and reinstalled all the engine harness connectors. Had to refer back to disassembly photos for routing.

Installed the new alternator then new serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. Of course I had to go back inside twice to look at the belt routing diagram.



New 220A alternator fits just like stock.



Before I installed the alternator, I used a long bolt, nut, flatwashers, and socket as a 'jackscrew' to push the mounting bushings out. I had read somewhere that the 220A alternator mounting base was a little thicker than stock.



New serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley.

 

[skpyle]

With the new alternator installed, I was finally able to fabricate the cable from the battery (+) terminal to the B+ post on the alternator. Same as the other cables: 1/0ga, 5/16" hole terminals, adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. I did put a little No-Ox inside the terminals before crimping them onto the cable. Bonus: I was able to reuse the OEM routing hardware for the original alternator power cable. They were just large enough to fit around the 1/0ga cable.



New fabricated 1/0ga alternator B+ cable and factory routing hardware.



New cable routes comfortably to the alternator and mounts cleanly on the B+ stud. Note: I added a piece of corrugated plastic loom over the cable where it runs behind the throttle body. There was no way to keep it off the throttle body housing. Loom will protect the 1/0ga cable from rubbing.



OEM white routing hardware at coil set mounting post on passenger's side valve cover. You can also just see the double connector that secures the throttle body wiring to the alternator power cable at right.



Cable terminates at the battery (+) terminal. Red cover still fits.

 

[skpyle]

I had already reinstalled the air box, new air filter, cover, and MAF sensor into the front passenger's side corner of the engine bay. Installed the factory air intake duct between the air box and throttle body next. I installed a new PCV fresh air line from the upper silencing duct to the front of the passenger's side valve cover.
Wrapped it up by reinstalling the cleaned catch can.

And then doublechecking my work.



New GM 12609373 PCV line.



Everything back together (except the engine cover.)


I reinstalled the fuel pump and FSCM fuses. (More erie foreshadowing music...) Then reconnected the battery (-) terminal. I had to go in and cycle the key to wake up the BCM.
At this point, I connected my Tech 2 and looked for any faults from the battery being unhooked, and from the key being on at various times with the engine harness disconnected. Surprisingly, I found none.

Just because, I performed the throttle body Idle Relearn procedure.

I then cycled the key on and off about 5 times to start to prime the fuel rail. Out at the fuel rail, I depressed the test port schrader valve and got some pressurized air out. 5 more key on/off cycles, and I got some fuel out of the schrader valve.

Moment of truth: now or never...

I left my Tech 2 connected and bumped the key. My intent was to just bump the starter. I have replaced many, many serpentine belts, but am always a touch nervous starting an engine afterwards.

And the starter cranked the engine for a couple of seconds until it started. And RAN!!!

And sounded pretty good.

I ran out to check for leaks, noises, and if the belt flew off. NO to all of them.

Back in the cabin, I went into live data on the Tech 2 to monitor the engine. All vitals looked good. Oil pressure was just as it always had been: 50PSI at start up, around 27ish when up to temp. Alternator voltage was 14.8VDC.

My main concern was coolant temp. Last time I drained the coolant, in October of 2021, I had trouble bleeding the system. And lightly overheated the engine.
And darn it if I didn't do it again.
I was already concerned, because the coolant level in the reservoir didn't drop when the engine started. Coolant temp slowly rose, didn't shoot up. But it kept going. 180 - 190 - 200, fans came on, 210 - 220 - 230, fans on HI. At that point, I shut the engine off.

My intent was to let it cool off. And see what happens. Same thing as in 2021, let it sit overnight. It was OK the next morning.

It was 10:00PM, and a good stopping point. I was concerned at the cooling system, but still happy the engine ran after I worked on it! I have been a gearhead for 30 years, and have done all manner of car/truck/bike/small engine work. However, I still worry when I light something up for the first time after I repair it.

Soooo...I came out this morning to find that the coolant level in the reservoir had not dropped overnight. I started the engine, it started right up. I set front and rear heat to 90 degrees and fans on low. And let it run.
I monitored coolant temp on the Tech 2.
This time, temp slowly rose to 190 degrees. And stayed there. Heat was blowing from the vents. It was good.

At this point, she was ready for a test drive.



Notice the new alternator just clears the engine cover with no interference.



The alternator B+ post is hidden under the engine cover as well.



Neat and tidy. Almost looks like I know what I am doing.




(OK full disclosure: these last three photos are after I got back home from a 60+ mile trip to see family. That is why the coolant level in the reservoir is near normal.)

 

[skpyle]

At this point, she was ready for a test drive.

No, she was not.


While the engine was running from the first start-up, I noticed the ABS and Traction Control system indicators illuminated on the instrument cluster. Hmmm...
After I shut the engine down to cool off, I went into the EBCM via the Tech 2, found no DTC's.

This morning, same thing. Engine running, ABS and Traction Control system indicators were illuminated. Same thing on the Tech 2, no DTC's. However, I looked closer. There were no DTC's because there were NO COMMS!!!

Oh no...what I did I screw up?
Using the Tech 2, I checked other modules: FSCM, ECM, TCM, BCM, etc...All had comms and were good. So the issue was with the EBCM.

OK, back in post #50, there was a little piece of plastic on top of one of the connectors for the underside of the underhood distribution box upper panel. Maybe I didn't get it blow off properly, and it was preventing all the pins from connecting. (Not likely, as I would expect more widespread electrical issues, but anyway).
I disconnected the battery (-) terminal and removed the distribution box upper panel again. Piece of plastic was not there. However, there was a tiny leaf fragment over one of the female pins. Surely that must be it. (Idiot...) I blew the leaf fragment off, blew everything else off, then reinstalled the upper panel. Reconnect the battery, restart the engine.
Same thing. Indicators on, no comms on the Tech 2.

OK...fall back on the basics. (BS. I cheated and went to the internet and had to remember the basics.) When a module has no comms, check powers and grounds. Looking at the wiring diagram, there are specific fuses in the underhood distribution box for the ABS/EBCM. EBCM shares grounds with other components. So, likely this is a power issue.

Using my power probe and the decal on the distribution box cover, I start checking all the ABS fuses. And quickly find an issue.

ABS fuse #9 is not there.
Say what? I have not had ABS and Traction Control issues before, so it HAD to be there before. What happened to the fuse? Only likely explanation was I pulled it, lost it, etc...
OK. Got a new 25A fuse, put it in slot #9. Retested.
All is well! No indicators, comms with the EBCM. I cleared a couple of DTC's from the battery being disconnected.

Yay me! (Idiot.)

I went for a short 8-mile test drive. Absolutely no issues.

I then went for a 60+ mile road trip to see family.
Escalade ran flawlessly. This thing flies!

I have been driving my wife's 2008 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ. 3.4L V-6, 5spd Aisin automatic transaxle. Not terrible, it is fast enough. But not very quick. I had forgotten how responsive my Escalade is.
And how wonderful the L94 sounds when I put my foot in the water pump.
Had absolutely no issues. Everything worked fine.


Sooo...on the drive, I had time to think. How in the heck did I lose the 25A ABS fuse? I only removed two fuses: #20 for the FUEL PUMP and #21 for the FSCM. Both were 25A. I removed them so the fuel pump wouldn't run while I had the key on for various reasons.
I had noted a discrepancy on the distribution box decal: there was a relay labeled FUEL PMP. However, there was no relay in my distribution box. Must be because my Escalade had an FSCM. Didn't need the fuel pump relay.
That kept turning over in my head on the drive. Then it clicked. If I didn't have a fuel pump relay, I probably didn't have a fuel pump fuse. When I thought I was pulling fuse #20, I actually pulled fuse #9. And when I reinstalled the fuse, I put it back in slot #20.

Once I got home, I removed the new fuse from slot #9. And swapped the fuse from slot #20 to slot #9.
Started the engine. It ran. And did not stop. And the MIL never illuminated. Meaning the fuel pump was running just fine.

So, Sherlock Holmes, what have we deduced? That I am an idiot.



(In green) Fuel pump fuse #20 and fuel pump relay. (In yellow) FSCM fuse #21.



(In yellow) ABS fuse #9.



(In red) ABS fuse #9 (In green) Non-existent fuel pump fuse #20 and fuel pump relay.




With all this, other than checking the coolant level in the reservoir in the morning, I am now back to daily driving my Escalade.


It has been an interesting journey, as I once again have gone too far with simple maintenance.

I hope you all have enjoyed this thread and maybe learned something.





(I will say this, I have respect for people who post all the time like this on forums. It has taken me over 2.5 hours to make these last 7 posts...)

 

[iamdub]

At this point, she was ready for a test drive.

No, she was not.


While the engine was running from the first start-up, I noticed the ABS and Traction Control system indicators illuminated on the instrument cluster. Hmmm...
After I shut the engine down to cool off, I went into the EBCM via the Tech 2, found no DTC's.

This morning, same thing. Engine running, ABS and Traction Control system indicators were illuminated. Same thing on the Tech 2, no DTC's. However, I looked closer. There were no DTC's because there were NO COMMS!!!

Oh no...what I did I screw up?
Using the Tech 2, I checked other modules: FSCM, ECM, TCM, BCM, etc...All had comms and were good. So the issue was with the EBCM.

OK, back in post #50, there was a little piece of plastic on top of one of the connectors for the underside of the underhood distribution box upper panel. Maybe I didn't get it blow off properly, and it was preventing all the pins from connecting. (Not likely, as I would expect more widespread electrical issues, but anyway).
I disconnected the battery (-) terminal and removed the distribution box upper panel again. Piece of plastic was not there. However, there was a tiny leaf fragment over one of the female pins. Surely that must be it. (Idiot...) I blew the leaf fragment off, blew everything else off, then reinstalled the upper panel. Reconnect the battery, restart the engine.
Same thing. Indicators on, no comms on the Tech 2.

OK...fall back on the basics. (BS. I cheated and went to the internet and had to remember the basics.) When a module has no comms, check powers and grounds. Looking at the wiring diagram, there are specific fuses in the underhood distribution box for the ABS/EBCM. EBCM shares grounds with other components. So, likely this is a power issue.

Using my power probe and the decal on the distribution box cover, I start checking all the ABS fuses. And quickly find an issue.

ABS fuse #9 is not there.
Say what? I have not had ABS and Traction Control issues before, so it HAD to be there before. What happened to the fuse? Only likely explanation was I pulled it, lost it, etc...
OK. Got a new 25A fuse, put it in slot #9. Retested.
All is well! No indicators, comms with the EBCM. I cleared a couple of DTC's from the battery being disconnected.

Yay me! (Idiot.)

I went for a short 8-mile test drive. Absolutely no issues.

I then went for a 60+ mile road trip to see family.
Escalade ran flawlessly. This thing flies!

I have been driving my wife's 2008 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ. 3.4L V-6, 5spd Aisin automatic transaxle. Not terrible, it is fast enough. But not very quick. I had forgotten how responsive my Escalade is.
And how wonderful the L94 sounds when I put my foot in the water pump.
Had absolutely no issues. Everything worked fine.


Sooo...on the drive, I had time to think. How in the heck did I lose the 25A ABS fuse? I only removed two fuses: #20 for the FUEL PUMP and #21 for the FSCM. Both were 25A. I removed them so the fuel pump wouldn't run while I had the key on for various reasons.
I had noted a discrepancy on the distribution box decal: there was a relay labeled FUEL PMP. However, there was no relay in my distribution box. Must be because my Escalade had an FSCM. Didn't need the fuel pump relay.
That kept turning over in my head on the drive. Then it clicked. If I didn't have a fuel pump relay, I probably didn't have a fuel pump fuse. When I thought I was pulling fuse #20, I actually pulled fuse #9. And when I reinstalled the fuse, I put it back in slot #20.

Once I got home, I removed the new fuse from slot #9. And swapped the fuse from slot #20 to slot #9.
Started the engine. It ran. And did not stop. And the MIL never illuminated. Meaning the fuel pump was running just fine.

So, Sherlock Holmes, what have we deduced? That I am an idiot.


View attachment 417286
(In green) Fuel pump fuse #20 and fuel pump relay. (In yellow) FSCM fuse #21.


View attachment 417287
(In yellow) ABS fuse #9.


View attachment 417288
(In red) ABS fuse #9 (In green) Non-existent fuel pump fuse #20 and fuel pump relay.




With all this, other than checking the coolant level in the reservoir in the morning, I am now back to daily driving my Escalade.


It has been an interesting journey, as I once again have gone too far with simple maintenance.

I hope you all have enjoyed this thread and maybe learned something.





(I will say this, I have respect for people who post all the time like this on forums. It has taken me over 2.5 hours to make these last 7 posts...)

I wouldn't say "too far". Not at all. You refreshed, replaced and upgraded where needed and/or where beneficial if even for peace of mind. You learned and shared what you experienced and learned. Others will learn from your postings. None of this is in vain, if even for documenting for your own future reference. You did good, sir.

I had flashbacks to my alternator upgrade cuz our comparo photos are so similar.