2013 PPV Slight Idle Shake Unknown Cause

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,245
Reaction score
39,336
Location
Stockton, Ca.
Well sorry for the delay in posting. But ran codes several times. None found. Check engine and transmission codes. Nothing . Used two different good scanners. OTC Genisys touch and Autel maxsys 808. Again mines sound like a light exhaust leak on right/passenger side. Have examined all over manifold and where manifold meets pipe.
But I dont think it would be that because noise and sluggish/hesitation, almost dead spot, is same time frame with rpm. Thinking of buying those diablo delete. I know its not a full delete but to see if noise/hesitation stops I'll know it's with afm or lifter tick issue. ???
have you taken the valve covers off and checked for a broken valve spring?
as for people having to wait a week or two to get into the dealer that's crazy, I can go the dealer here at 10am and have most things done by the end of the day, it has to be something pretty serious to keep it even more than 24 hours and they are a busy dealership.
 

1BADI5

Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
1,833
Reaction score
2,988
Location
DMV
With a broken valve spring you would normally get/have a misfire and with a PO300(general misfire) or say PO302 if it was cylinder 2
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,245
Reaction score
39,336
Location
Stockton, Ca.
With a broken valve spring you would normally get/have a misfire and with a PO300(general misfire) or say PO302 if it was cylinder 2
ya I figured but thought it could be a possibility, not sure if that would always throw code or not.
 

foeteef

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Posts
18
Reaction score
13
Haven't did an inspection for broken spring. Would think it would cause an issue further through range of rpm/throttle.
 

1BADI5

Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
1,833
Reaction score
2,988
Location
DMV
So I did some digging into this.

I knew there was no problem with the motor, motor mounts or transmission mount.

So the OEM tuning on these trucks it odd at best. GM has the idle set around 550 rpm. I have spoken with a few local tuners and all them said the same thing; tune it. Moving the idle from stock to some where in between 600-700 rpm is the sweet spot and the idle annoyance with disappear.

For proof of concept, once the truck is at operating temperature.....your in park and the shaking is present. Shift it in to neutral, mine idles nice and smooth at 600 rpm and the shaking shit is gone.

Reflash and fixed. You might even be able to get the dealer to reflash for the idle; I have not looked to see if there was a TSB or VCN for it yet.
 

GCATX

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Posts
20
Reaction score
16
I did this exact thing last week. I found an old diablo sport I had thrown in my desk drawer years ago. Turned of the DOD and bumped the idle 100, left everything else stock tune. Idle feels about 75% better. I still want to check the driver motor mount, but honestly, it's not that bad anymore.

My wife's current escalade needed new driver side motor mount at 38k miles, it was shaking at idle and had the clunk when on/off the gas. I remember we had to replace the same mount on her 08 escalade at 90k, we bought it used so it may have been done once already.
 
OP
OP
State_Blue_Man

State_Blue_Man

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Posts
10
Reaction score
1
All,
Its has been some time but I have an update. I found the driver side cat was partially plugged and surface was starting to melt. I think the was due to the 9,900-ish idle hours and lack of proper maintenance. I replaced the Y pipe assembly and resolved all of the other codes besides a P219a. The performance and fuel economy came back up but not where I was happy enough. I replaced the plugs and wires & this improved the idle condition further. The V4 plugs were bad to say the least. Come to find out i pulled the trucks service history and found out no one replaced the plugs and wires so it was long over due anyway. Next step is to test the fuel system to see if i have a bad injector or weak fuel pump.

I did have a bad trans mount and going to put on in the next few days. i found this out when i pulled the cross member to get the exhaust out.

The motor mounts are in good shape surprisingly.

Keep in mind the truck has no injector, knock, or evap faults still.

I'll keep you posted on my findings. I'm just crossing my fingers that its not the AFM/DOD starting to fail.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
20,759
Reaction score
36,732
Location
Willamette Valley
Besides the age anyway of the cats, they were likely effected by the old plugs and wires and therefore unburned fuel got in the cats. That will damage them. The bank #1 imbalance code, P219A, could be something as simple as the injectors needing cleaned. That is also the same side as the bad cat you found. A weak fuel pump would effect both banks but it is a great idea to check the fuel pressure anyway. What brand of fuel do you use and what grade? The mid and premium grades have additives in them that help keep fuel systems/injectors clean. At this point I would use something like Chevron Techron in a tank or two and see what happens. I would also clean or replace the MAF and clean the throttle body. Check the air filter and replace as needed.
 
OP
OP
State_Blue_Man

State_Blue_Man

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Posts
10
Reaction score
1
Besides the age anyway of the cats, they were likely effected by the old plugs and wires and therefore unburned fuel got in the cats. That will damage them. The bank #1 imbalance code, P219A, could be something as simple as the injectors needing cleaned. That is also the same side as the bad cat you found. A weak fuel pump would effect both banks but it is a great idea to check the fuel pressure anyway. What brand of fuel do you use and what grade? The mid and premium grades have additives in them that help keep fuel systems/injectors clean. At this point I would use something like Chevron Techron in a tank or two and see what happens. I would also clean or replace the MAF and clean the throttle body. Check the air filter and replace as needed.

Yes, I believe you are correct in that assumption this is leading me to a fuel injector / system problem when going into V4 mode. So this may narrow down the two injectors to pull first. (I'm going to pull them all while I'm in there and clean if i can)

Any recommendations on OEM replacement injectors? I see many types out there for really cheap and super expensive.

I'm currently running 92 (from costco) in the tank to help clean out the system with injector fuel system cleaner from seafoam. The idle condition improved about 1/2 way thought the tank. I still and 1/2 way to go till empty. I'm going to clean the top end with some MAF cleaner and TB cleaner. Then go through a visual inspection again encase i missed something like a vacuum or exhaust leak.

I'll keep you all posted and send some Pics.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,365
Posts
1,866,773
Members
96,987
Latest member
Chineyfari
Top