2013 Suburban with very light misfire at idle and highway speeds

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TSOL

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Hello I have a 2013 Chevy Suburban with 215k miles and a very light misfire at idle and highway speeds. The misfires are so light that I wonder if I'm blowing it all out of proportion and its actually okay.
Some important info:

1. The check engine light does NOT come on. The misfires are found through my Ancel code reader. I have had cases where every cylinder has registered a misfire before EXCEPT cylinder 4 oddly. That one runs pristine.

2. The misfires are few and far between when at highway speeds. I may accrue up to 10-15 total misfires across 8 cylinders over a 45 minute drive. Cylinders 3 and 5 are the biggest offenders, but cylinder 8 can also have a few. I thought I caught one yesterday when AFM was switching from V4 to V8, but its nearly impossible to prove that this is what it was.

3. The "idling" misfires are hot idle misfires (at engine coolant operating temp of 200 degC). I can actually feel the steering wheel jerk when it is idling, but it is very slight. I can have 2+ misfires accrue on the computer over the span of a few minutes on cylinder 8. There is a broken exhaust bolt on cylinder 7, causing a slight exhaust leak, so this may be the culprit? Can't tell. My idle drops really low as well, probably near 500 RPMs. I've heard this is an issue with these engines that the idle is set super low for emissions reasons.



Things I have done so far:
1.Compression test: All cylinders (except Cylinder 2): 175 PSI, Cylinder 2: 190-195 PSI. Not at all sure why Cyl 2 is high, maybe carbon deposits? But I ran a can of Seafoam through the intake...

2.New spark plugs 6k miles ago. No new wires or coils that I installed, but the previous owner put Belden wires with heat shields on.

3.Engine has been running rich for the past few weeks due to a different issue where my fuel trims were reading 70% ethanol content, but when we pulled the plugs to check compression (after we had solved that issue), they weren't majorly dirty. Some were wet, some where a little white, some were a little dark. None were black, cracked, burnt or ashy.

4.Replaced PCV Valve because oil was pooling in my intake. Oil is still pooling in my intake after replacing it. Oil could be getting into the cylinders, but as I said the plugs aren't super dirty.



I am probably blowing this all out of proportion, but as someone who wants to work out all the kinks in this wonderful vehicle, it does drive me insane knowing I have random misfiring happening.
 

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Be sure to watch the ethanol content so it doesn't go out of whack again. IIRC there is a service bulletin to update the calibration in the PCM, and some people have remarked that new (OE) upstream O2 sensors also help. Any place that can read your calibrations with a scanner and compare those to what's offered in GM's programming site can tell you if there's an update.

By replacing the PCV valve do you mean the driver's side valve cover? Have you considered a catch can to catch the oil?

Lastly, random misfires can be caused by the crank sensor being slightly out of sync with the cam sensor. Do a CASE relearn with a capable scanner to rule that out.
 
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TSOL

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I have been watching my ethanol every time I've gotten in the car. I drive 1h30m daily to work, so I refill twice a week. I've put probably 3 fills of gas into this suburban (I fill at half tank) and the ethanol content hasn't gone up. It has gone down actually, it now reads 0.0%. I talked to my boss about this, and he said he heard something about our state not actually using that much ethanol in our gasoline. I am in North Dakota for reference. Fuel trims have been reasonable the whole time. For the vast majority of my driving, they have remained within +-10%.

It was starting REALLY REALLY hard before updating ethanol content and afterwards that seemed to fix the issue. My O2 sensors "pass" the test when I read them, but I suppose they technically still could be faulty. I could clean 'em with MAF cleaner if that seems like a useful thing to do.

Yes, by PCV I mean valve cover. I have really considered using a catch can but two things have stopped me:
1. I live in ND. It can go from 40 degF to -10 degF in the span of 8 hours. granted, you know when that's going to happen, but it's regularly below freezing and I've heard horror stories of people who didn't drain their can, then their can froze and blocked the PCV valve which is catastrophic.
2. Isn't a catch can just a band aid for a bigger problem which is cylinder blow-by? I know there is always going to be "some" blow by that makes it past the piston rings, but this seems excessive for the comparatively good compression that I have on this engine, given the mileage. Before I replaced the PCV there was a pool of oil that went from the back of the Throttle body to the front, right behind the butterfly valve. Here's a pic. (This is before I ran a can of seafoam through the intake)
Screenshot_20250319-144537_Video Player.jpg


Lastly, what is a good tool to do a case relearn? Is it something a DiY'er could reasonably buy, or is it as expensive as most shop scan tools? I had a local shop reset my ethanol so if it needs to be a special scanner, I'll likely just contact them.

Thanks!
 

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Just about any bi-directional scanner will do a quick CASE relearn. As long as the engine is up to operating temperature, it takes less than a minute to do one.
 
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TSOL

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I checked my O2 sensors when idling and they both swing rapidly from 0.1 to 0.9V. A quick Google search shows that this is exactly what they should be doing. I'm gonna see if I can find a way to test my CASE values.
 

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