2013 Tahoe Performance upgrade tips

[Meccanoble]

Also, someone mentioned the stock airbox for intake is more than plenty. Only restriction is the tubing from box to throttle body. Buying an ebay kit just to use that part and keeping everything else stock would be fine? Anyone try to fit a better filter (cone like) into the stock airbox?

Ebay kit = $60ish
Quality filter = 60ish?

 

[iamdub]

Just curious how much the tune is? If you plan to get tune, the catch can is not needed right? What if you get a tune with just 1 mod added (intake) and later get exhaust, will a new tune be needed? Can the tune ever be removed?

The catch can has nothing to do with a tune. It's to filter the oil mist from the air inside the engine and store it in a can so that it doesn't get sucked back into the engine. A tune is reprogramming the fuel and ignition tables in the PCM to optimize performance, whether it be for a stock or modified engine. Other functions such as transmission shifting can be changed as well. If you want a tune, you should wait until you have all of your bolt-on mods completed so that the PCM can be tuned to optimize performance for all of the mods. You can always have a custom tune modified or removed and the stock tuning returned to the PCM.

Also, someone mentioned the stock airbox for intake is more than plenty. Only restriction is the tubing from box to throttle body. Buying an ebay kit just to use that part and keeping everything else stock would be fine? Anyone try to fit a better filter (cone like) into the stock airbox?

Ebay kit = $60ish
Quality filter = 60ish?

Changing the stock filter to a cone style isn't worth the effort. The stock filter flows more CFM than what the engine can pull in while effectively cleaning the air. An aftermarket filter may or may not filter as well- why risk it? If you're looking to spend $120 on the intake ($60 eBay kit and $60 filter), you should just get an Airaid MIT and be done with it: Far less work, proven gains, no compromises.

 

[Meccanoble]

Thanks for recommendation. I found the tube you referring to. So get stock filter since I will see little to no improvement going with different filter and just get upgraded tube (http://www.airaid.com/search/product.aspx?prod=200-996)

I had high powered 6 cylinder cars that were quoted to get improvement with just filter (hard to believe). Partnering a cone filter with this setup will only help with sound, not power? Was hoping my first 8 cylinder would see the most improvement of all the cars i had with simple intake....

 

[iamdub]

This intake is about as simple as you can get. The gain is had by removing all the mufflers that the stock intake tube has. No muffler chambers=smooth and direct path for air flow. You will get a nice sound (very similar to a mild performance muffler) with just the intake tube (the Airaid MIT). This deep and throaty sound is exactly for what the GM engineers added all those mufflers to quiet down. You can use a stock-replacement drop-in filter if it makes you feel better. I recommend a non-oiled one such as an AEM DryFlow. But there's no reason to redesign the whole setup unless you're just bored and have time and want to create another perpetual maintenance item.

 

[Jason_S]

Found this while looking for something else: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html Interesting read, found on a Nissan website, about a test performed on Duramax filters.

 

[BigM]

Thanks for recommendation. I found the tube you referring to. So get stock filter since I will see little to no improvement going with different filter and just get upgraded tube (http://www.airaid.com/search/product.aspx?prod=200-996)

I had high powered 6 cylinder cars that were quoted to get improvement with just filter (hard to believe). Partnering a cone filter with this setup will only help with sound, not power? Was hoping my first 8 cylinder would see the most improvement of all the cars i had with simple intake....

Will this go with 2013 z71 Tahoe 5.3?
I'm still in the process of getting the headers and exhaust system procured.

 

[BigM]

i came across these long tube SS headers, from kooks 1 3/4" x 3" any feedback on gain, installation...etc. and will it fit my Tahoe directly or requires any modifications? (A bit expensive though!!)


and also what's your thoughts on the Range AFM disabler?

Hope the picture are clear!

 

[Meccanoble]

This intake is about as simple as you can get. The gain is had by removing all the mufflers that the stock intake tube has. No muffler chambers=smooth and direct path for air flow. You will get a nice sound (very similar to a mild performance muffler) with just the intake tube (the Airaid MIT). This deep and throaty sound is exactly for what the GM engineers added all those mufflers to quiet down. You can use a stock-replacement drop-in filter if it makes you feel better. I recommend a non-oiled one such as an AEM DryFlow. But there's no reason to redesign the whole setup unless you're just bored and have time and want to create another perpetual maintenance item.

On my previous M3, the tube was the recommended change to improve power through flow like you said. There were also these scoops that helps push air into the intake but still question if they helped. Regarding filter, the link someone sent shows AC Delco being pretty good. I guess an aftermarket dry flow filter is more ideal for someone that wants to change their filter less frequently? Assuming stock needs to be changed around 15k vs these more expensive ones every 30-50k?

 

[iamdub]

On my previous M3, the tube was the recommended change to improve power through flow like you said. There were also these scoops that helps push air into the intake but still question if they helped. Regarding filter, the link someone sent shows AC Delco being pretty good. I guess an aftermarket dry flow filter is more ideal for someone that wants to change their filter less frequently? Assuming stock needs to be changed around 15k vs these more expensive ones every 30-50k?

My opinion is that the cheaper aftermarket ones don't filter as well so they take longer to get dirty. Also, most of the aftermarket "performance" filters are washable/reusable, so there is no "changing". Honestly, I don't replace my filter by mileage. I inspect it every other oil change and blow it out in the reverse of normal flow with my compressor. If it's too "permanently grey", then I'll replace it. I'm currently running an AEM DryFlow just because I got it for the cost of shipping. A few weeks later I ended up with an Airaid MIT. It's my weekend car so I won't be inspecting the inside of the Airaid for passed dirt for a while.

 

[Meccanoble]

My opinion is that the cheaper aftermarket ones don't filter as well so they take longer to get dirty. Also, most of the aftermarket "performance" filters are washable/reusable, so there is no "changing". Honestly, I don't replace my filter by mileage. I inspect it every other oil change and blow it out in the reverse of normal flow with my compressor. If it's too "permanently grey", then I'll replace it. I'm currently running an AEM DryFlow just because I got it for the cost of shipping. A few weeks later I ended up with an Airaid MIT. It's my weekend car so I won't be inspecting the inside of the Airaid for passed dirt for a while.

Well they werent cheaper, they were more $ but they were oil based filters similar to K&N but better rep. I forget name (B&M or something) but I remember paying 90 for one and it didnt need to be cleaned for longer than the stock one along with supposed gains. They were better recommended because the quality of frame of filter and they didnt over oil which is probably #1 cause of MAF's going bad. But I'll end up doing what you do.