GMMillwright
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Gotcha. I think Nick @ Adam's polishes has me covered. I've known him for several years (we both had GTOs for a while).
2013 Yukon XL Denali Build Thread
- Thread starter GMMillwright
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GMMillwright
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Well, got some of the mod's done this weekend with mixed results. Had a friend of mine do the installs in his shop. He's co-owner of a small 3 bay garage. He and one of his employees tackled all the work. I wasn't there for the installs due to my daytime sleep schedule on 3rd shift.
The good:
Lowering kit went on almost without incident. I was clear to him about the "strut mod" and emailed him links with pictures, but somehow he didn't get it that he had to cut the other 2 grooves. Fortunately, he knew a guy who owns a tool shop and badda-bing, grooves in the struts. He originally put the snap ring in the (factory + .62) location, but was concerned that it was too low. He knows the new wheels and tires go on this week and thought it would be problematic that low. He used the (factory + .40) groove and it turned out great. Very happy with the front. He called Belltech and they told him he didn't need to do the "free travel mod" because it's still using the AutoRide. Don't know if will be a problem or not. I'd prefer it lower in the rear, but I can live with it as it sits. It has about 2" of rake now. I'd like it to be around 1".
Edit: My buddy ended up not using the DJM sway bar links. Said the factory ones were fine. I don't think I got the right parts anyway. I thought only one of the links had an offset in it?
The good:
Lowering kit went on almost without incident. I was clear to him about the "strut mod" and emailed him links with pictures, but somehow he didn't get it that he had to cut the other 2 grooves. Fortunately, he knew a guy who owns a tool shop and badda-bing, grooves in the struts. He originally put the snap ring in the (factory + .62) location, but was concerned that it was too low. He knows the new wheels and tires go on this week and thought it would be problematic that low. He used the (factory + .40) groove and it turned out great. Very happy with the front. He called Belltech and they told him he didn't need to do the "free travel mod" because it's still using the AutoRide. Don't know if will be a problem or not. I'd prefer it lower in the rear, but I can live with it as it sits. It has about 2" of rake now. I'd like it to be around 1".
Edit: My buddy ended up not using the DJM sway bar links. Said the factory ones were fine. I don't think I got the right parts anyway. I thought only one of the links had an offset in it?
Last edited:
GMMillwright
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The Not-so-good:
I got a deal on a "retro" from Black Flame Customs. They had a customer back out of a set when he wrecked the truck before he picked them up. I like the halos but don't really care for the LEDs. I decided I could live with them. Unfortunately, the passenger side light has some issues. The halo and parking lights work fine, but the headlight doesn't turn on. Also, the LED strip has a bad section in it. The bad news is that he started installing the headlights with the driver's side. So now I have to figure out a way to get the passenger side either repaired, or returned for repair to NY. I'm not really sure what to expect BFC to do. I'm sure they'll say "send it back and we'll fix it". That means at least several days without a light in the truck -- not feasible. I could have my buddy swap back to factory stuff, but that'll take time and more money that I doubt BFC will be thrilled about picking up the tab. Ideally, I'd like them to send a new ballast and bulb along with some kind of jumper wiring harnesses (for both lights) to disable the LEDs.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 AM ----------
Goes into the paint shop on Monday to get the front "GMC" painted to match and debadged. Wheels and tires Tuesday, I hope.
Forgot to mention the 25 watt, 6000k HIDs went in the fog lights without incident. As did the CREE reverse lights and the LEDs for the license and puddle lights.
I got a deal on a "retro" from Black Flame Customs. They had a customer back out of a set when he wrecked the truck before he picked them up. I like the halos but don't really care for the LEDs. I decided I could live with them. Unfortunately, the passenger side light has some issues. The halo and parking lights work fine, but the headlight doesn't turn on. Also, the LED strip has a bad section in it. The bad news is that he started installing the headlights with the driver's side. So now I have to figure out a way to get the passenger side either repaired, or returned for repair to NY. I'm not really sure what to expect BFC to do. I'm sure they'll say "send it back and we'll fix it". That means at least several days without a light in the truck -- not feasible. I could have my buddy swap back to factory stuff, but that'll take time and more money that I doubt BFC will be thrilled about picking up the tab. Ideally, I'd like them to send a new ballast and bulb along with some kind of jumper wiring harnesses (for both lights) to disable the LEDs.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 AM ----------
Goes into the paint shop on Monday to get the front "GMC" painted to match and debadged. Wheels and tires Tuesday, I hope.
Forgot to mention the 25 watt, 6000k HIDs went in the fog lights without incident. As did the CREE reverse lights and the LEDs for the license and puddle lights.
GMMillwright
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Update: Talked to Tony about the lack of rear drop. He told me to use shorter height sensor links (2.5"). I don't have any #10-24 all-thread in the shop. I wonder if I can use 1/4-20, which I have plenty of. The ends of the height sensors are just threaded plastic, right? I can use the 1/4-20 to, essentially, cut new threads (1/4-20 is slightly bigger OD than #10-24), right? I cut some of the 1/4-20 all-thread tonight in 2.5, 2.75, and 3.0" lengths. After that, he said I'd definently need the free travel mod and new bumpstops (which I bought but weren't used).
Also discovered that the swaybar links aren't the same. One has more offset. I'll need those installed when the drop increases. He said I'd need to move the sway bar link on the driver's side? Have to do some research on that.
Also discovered that the swaybar links aren't the same. One has more offset. I'll need those installed when the drop increases. He said I'd need to move the sway bar link on the driver's side? Have to do some research on that.
If you don;t move it over it will ride like crap and also hit something iirc. It's SUPER easy to do. Just drill 2 new holes for the mount 1"-2" to the right and slide sway bar over. Took me all of 5mins to do.
GMMillwright
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BB, got a link? Searched, but no luck. Pictures, preferrably.
---------- Post added at 10:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 PM ----------
Actually got a reply email from BFC today. Surprising on a Sunday. They are sending a new ballast and bulb. They also told me which wires to cut to disable the LEDs. They get a gold star from me for good customer service.
---------- Post added at 10:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 PM ----------
Actually got a reply email from BFC today. Surprising on a Sunday. They are sending a new ballast and bulb. They also told me which wires to cut to disable the LEDs. They get a gold star from me for good customer service.
Kinds crappy pics but it's what I got.
Passenger Side
Drivers Side
Look carefully and you can see the original holes on the bottom
This was on my old tuck so I can't just go out and take better pics. Sorry, but hope that helps.
Passenger Side
Drivers Side
Look carefully and you can see the original holes on the bottom
This was on my old tuck so I can't just go out and take better pics. Sorry, but hope that helps.
BFC is good people ...
Is it too late for captain hindsight over here to say that a retro, especially a long distance one, should always have all its functions checked before bolting the bumper back on?
That said, it doesn't take a long time (read $ if you pay someone) to yank a bumper off and switch back to oem headlamps ... I got so used to it back in the day, I got it down to under a half hour.
Hopefully the ballast and bulb will fix the issue.
Is it too late for captain hindsight over here to say that a retro, especially a long distance one, should always have all its functions checked before bolting the bumper back on?
That said, it doesn't take a long time (read $ if you pay someone) to yank a bumper off and switch back to oem headlamps ... I got so used to it back in the day, I got it down to under a half hour.
Hopefully the ballast and bulb will fix the issue.
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