Appointment tomorrow in Va Bch to hopefully get something figured out. I’ll keep updating so maybe it helps someone else. Seems everyone comes with questions and never responds as to what the end result was...
2016 **SOLVED**Tahoe RF aftermarket amp sub sound issue
- Thread starter Unit171
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Textilet
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2017
- Posts
- 5
- Reaction score
- 1
I read in one of these threads that the ANC system can be disabled through a dealer software flash (it was supposedly part of the install process for the kicker sub upgrade, though they didn't do it when I had mine put in.) Maybe applying the ANC delete via software could help you?
TechSupport
Full Access Member
Did you use T taps to get the signal out of the Bose amp? That could very well be your issue.
I’m at the shop now. He thought he had it figured out. RCAs are soldered out of the Bose amp harness. He even added another signal to make sure its good. I went to pick it up and it’s fading again.
He pulled it back in the back and just told me he thinks the ground is the issue. So I’m waiting on that.
He pulled it back in the back and just told me he thinks the ground is the issue. So I’m waiting on that.
Okie dokie....
So the ground was re-done, and they added a remote turn on wire directly to the LC2i. It was on auto-turn on as it sensed a signal but now it’s directly wired to the amp turn on.
I drove home (45 minutes) and the bass stayed strong. So here’s to hoping that fixed it.
Lessons learned(provided it is fixed)
The ANC did not affect the system
Always verify your ground is a good ground(verify with a fluke if you have issues)
If you’re having issues with these year model/make/model, make sure your amp and LOC are actively on and not just (has a light) (measure with fluke)
Lastly, don’t give up. DIY is great.... but while I have installed plenty of gear across several vehicles, these new vehicles can be tricky.
Hopefully My system is fixed and not just an extended(intermittent working) and the thread will help someone dumb like me in the future!
So the ground was re-done, and they added a remote turn on wire directly to the LC2i. It was on auto-turn on as it sensed a signal but now it’s directly wired to the amp turn on.
I drove home (45 minutes) and the bass stayed strong. So here’s to hoping that fixed it.
Lessons learned(provided it is fixed)
The ANC did not affect the system
Always verify your ground is a good ground(verify with a fluke if you have issues)
If you’re having issues with these year model/make/model, make sure your amp and LOC are actively on and not just (has a light) (measure with fluke)
Lastly, don’t give up. DIY is great.... but while I have installed plenty of gear across several vehicles, these new vehicles can be tricky.
Hopefully My system is fixed and not just an extended(intermittent working) and the thread will help someone dumb like me in the future!
I feel like this is a repeating statement..... “it’s still not fixed”
Just drove the truck and the bass nearly blew me out of the front seat. Punch remote was all the way down... so I pull over and check the gain... they turned it all the way up and coupled with the punch remote up... that’s why I had bass earlier.
Problem is that the system was still acting up. It only seemed to be fixed bc the shop had turned everything up after the system had dropped out. So naturally when I got in it to drive it tonight, whatever the system does to reset resulted in it being back to normal and thus the gain and punch remote being turned up blew me out of the truck.
I’m going to drink when I get home. If anyone is reading this..... I may or may not return haha
Just drove the truck and the bass nearly blew me out of the front seat. Punch remote was all the way down... so I pull over and check the gain... they turned it all the way up and coupled with the punch remote up... that’s why I had bass earlier.
Problem is that the system was still acting up. It only seemed to be fixed bc the shop had turned everything up after the system had dropped out. So naturally when I got in it to drive it tonight, whatever the system does to reset resulted in it being back to normal and thus the gain and punch remote being turned up blew me out of the truck.
I’m going to drink when I get home. If anyone is reading this..... I may or may not return haha
fozzi58
Full Access Member
I would start with a phone call to iDatalink and provide them the problem and what components you are using. I am sure they have a solution to this. From what I have been reading about their Maestro product line, the units are incredible. It seems like these things have solved every audiophile's issue with late model cars. I'm reading this on outside websites specific to car audio or even manufacturer's websites like Sundown. But a lot of the posts seem to all lead back to iDatalink products. The worst it will do is cost you 15 minutes of your life.
http://www.idatalink.com
http://www.idatalink.com
Thanks Fozzi. I’ll try them out.
I had another member just message me having the same problem. Almost Identical and is even in my same area. Hopefully between the two of us we can find a solution. He said he was taking his to the dealership to see about the ANC de/reprogram.
I had another member just message me having the same problem. Almost Identical and is even in my same area. Hopefully between the two of us we can find a solution. He said he was taking his to the dealership to see about the ANC de/reprogram.
TechSupport
Full Access Member
I guess I got lucky with mine. I literally disconnected the wire from the stock sub when I removed it and used that with a speaker wire to rca connector into my JL amp and it works mint!
