Tech.... so maybe I need to unhook/de-pin my stock sub wires from the amp and run it that way...
2016 **SOLVED**Tahoe RF aftermarket amp sub sound issue
- Thread starter Unit171
- Start date
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Tech.... so maybe I need to unhook/de-pin my stock sub wires from the amp and run it that way...
TechSupport
Full Access Member
Any updates on your install?
Dude....I’m beyond stumped. Went to stealership and had them turn off the ANC and even disconnected the three mics too. No change.
Immediately on start up, I have big bass... I’m so obsessed with it I’ve fine tuned when it dies and what I can do before it does.
Get this.... when it’s hitting, if I hit the brakes, use turn signal, adjust seats, anything like that, the bass disappears! Isn’t that crazy??? So let’s say I’m braking, it goes away but if I hold the brakes like during a stop sign, the bass comes back in a second or two. Does it every time I hit the brakes or induce something. I felt like it was a power issue. But after 5 minutes or so it just drops all together and then I have to turn the remote bass up to over halfway to even start hearing the sub again.
The shop is going to troubleshoot again next week, but they have no idea and I know are tired of looking at it because I’ve already paid them.
Immediately on start up, I have big bass... I’m so obsessed with it I’ve fine tuned when it dies and what I can do before it does.
Get this.... when it’s hitting, if I hit the brakes, use turn signal, adjust seats, anything like that, the bass disappears! Isn’t that crazy??? So let’s say I’m braking, it goes away but if I hold the brakes like during a stop sign, the bass comes back in a second or two. Does it every time I hit the brakes or induce something. I felt like it was a power issue. But after 5 minutes or so it just drops all together and then I have to turn the remote bass up to over halfway to even start hearing the sub again.
The shop is going to troubleshoot again next week, but they have no idea and I know are tired of looking at it because I’ve already paid them.
TechSupport
Full Access Member
Go for a drive with your installer. Drive around hit the brakes drive around etc. Make sure he has a meter on the amp to see if the voltage or ground drops out. I would also look at where he got your remote turn on from. I used a 12volt outlet in the center console that’s switched from the ignition for my remote turn on.
I did the initial install. My remote turn on is from the spare spade connection under the dash. However I’ll pull that out and temp wire one to the 12v port on my center too.
As for driving around, I thinks that’s a great idea. I’m going to have my brother help me this weekend while I put a fluke on it. I’m also going to take the amp out of my other Tahoe and try it just to rule out the amp
As for driving around, I thinks that’s a great idea. I’m going to have my brother help me this weekend while I put a fluke on it. I’m also going to take the amp out of my other Tahoe and try it just to rule out the amp
Tech, I finally got around to putting a fluke on there. On first crank I’m at 14.6V at my amp, when I hit the brakes or power window, the bass dumps and the voltage momentarily drops about .5 volts. The voltage immediately comes back up and the bass slowly rolls back in too. This all seems like I have a voltage issue but in actuality, with no less than 14V at any time.... my bass should never drop. Furthermore, this “drop” in voltage doesn’t explain why eventually the bass goes away completely. I have figured out that once it does drop off, I have to then turn my punch knob up to halfway for any bass to respond at the sub. So it’s basically a 50% loss.... I’m almost okay with that but really hate the initial bass that I have to adjust to then have to adjust again after 5-10 minutes when it finally drops all together.
Update!!!
Read all the wires and verified the voltage drop I’m seeing is normal. Went to my 07 hoe and saw the same drop at the amp when applying the brakes or hitting the power windows. So I took the JL500 I had in my 07 and slaved in the 16.
WOW!!!! Even at the 500 Watts it actually startled me when it first started hitting. I ran the system for over an hour, hitting the brakes, flipping window switches.... bass was pounding and never stopped.
So needless to say my problem is the damn amp was bad from manufacturing. I guess it has a faulty tube or something preventing it from sustaining amplification.
And I’ve also had the ANC deprogrammed(wasn’t needed) as well as paying a shop 80 bucks to troubleshoot and didn’t help....all while they broke my rear drivers side door sill plastic when they pulled it up to check my work! Ugh.....
So there’s the thread. Thanks to the few that chimed in to assist. Especially Tech for the suggestions here and there!
Read all the wires and verified the voltage drop I’m seeing is normal. Went to my 07 hoe and saw the same drop at the amp when applying the brakes or hitting the power windows. So I took the JL500 I had in my 07 and slaved in the 16.
WOW!!!! Even at the 500 Watts it actually startled me when it first started hitting. I ran the system for over an hour, hitting the brakes, flipping window switches.... bass was pounding and never stopped.
So needless to say my problem is the damn amp was bad from manufacturing. I guess it has a faulty tube or something preventing it from sustaining amplification.
And I’ve also had the ANC deprogrammed(wasn’t needed) as well as paying a shop 80 bucks to troubleshoot and didn’t help....all while they broke my rear drivers side door sill plastic when they pulled it up to check my work! Ugh.....
So there’s the thread. Thanks to the few that chimed in to assist. Especially Tech for the suggestions here and there!
