2017 Yukon XL Denali 7.32 amp draw

[Biscuit mobile]

I've had this since August. When I got it the seat cooling fans did not work. The dealer had them fixed. A couple of months later I noticed the heated seats did not get hot. The buttons and lights do what they are supposed to but no heat. Then my wife says her door won't unlock. I tried my unlock button and mine would not unlock either. It may have been that way all along because I never use the door buttons. Next was the radio. It would pause like it was going to change to XM or phone, skip a little and go on playing. I left one morning and I got all kinds of messages, Traction control, Trailer brake, Stability, Cruise did not work and probably a couple other things. This lasted a couple of days and disappeared.
At this point I thought it was a wheel sensor and I bought a scanner to check. All the wheel sensors were reading but I had a code for the transmission solenoid I think, at the time, I looked it up and it was behind the valve body. I cleared the codes and no more problems.
Now I get a dead battery quick enough that I unhook the cable if I plan on being parked a couple hours. On the negative cable it reads about 7.3 amps after it settles but it's not sleeping. I did the milli volt test and the radio #29 and AC Inverter #39 in the passenger fuse panel were the highest draws but when I pulled them out I still had 3 amps drawing.
The next highest fuse is in the drivers side dash fuse panel, ICP #39. When I pull it also the draw drops to about 1 amp.
Here's the confusing part. I can put the other 2 fuses back in and the draw remains at 1 amp. I can restart the truck, shut it down and check all the fuses again with the milli volt meter but I can not get it to go below 1 amp by pulling fuses.
The only way I can get the truck to go to sleep is to unhook the harness plug going into the drivers side dash fuse box. It takes about 3 minutes but it will drop in stages to 0.03 amps.
I'm open to suggestions, thoughts, ideas, name calling. I don't care at this point.
This truck is in nice condition, 1 owner before me, no rust and all original.
If you have read this far, thank you.
I will close this out when I have an answer.

 

[Fless]

Agreed, this can be very frustrating.

Tell us a little more about the test setup. Do you have an ammeter inserted in the negative battery cable circuit, or ??

When you test the fuse voltage drop are you reading the fuse test points in millivolts, and using the PowerProbe conversion chart to estimate current draw?

Lastly, have you tested the voltage drop across all of the fuses in the driver's side fuse box?

EDIT: are you using a scanner to check for codes, and one that can read body codes?

 

[Biscuit mobile]

Agreed, this can be very frustrating.

Tell us a little more about the test setup. Do you have an ammeter inserted in the negative battery cable circuit, or ??

When you test the fuse voltage drop are you reading the fuse test points in millivolts, and using the PowerProbe conversion chart to estimate current draw?

Lastly, have you tested the voltage drop across all of the fuses in the driver's side fuse box?

I have a Fluke clamp on amp probe and I'm grabbing both neg cables. I used an in line 10 amp Fluke meter and they were very close in readings. The reading varies slightly all the time when it is drawing over 7 amps.
I am measuring the fuses in millivolts and checking the power probe charts. This last time I did not convert. I just pulled any fuse that wasn't 0.0 millivolts.
I checked under hood drivers side, driver and passenger dash fuse panels and the drivers side fuse panel.
I'm beginning to think it may be something that is one of the bigger closed top max-fuses that is drawing. What will keep the IPC awake? I'm stumped.

 

[Fless]

Ok, that clarifies the setup. I mention it because some of the clamps that will read AC and DC amps don't read accurately at low DC amperages. The ones with the larger jaws aren't accurate for that.

I haven't seen a good way to check the J-case fused circuits except to pull them and insert an ammeter in the socket contacts to complete the circuit.

I added a question to my original post about a scanner.