2dr 4x4 lowerd anyone????

[96ProCompTahoe]

i already have it covered!

That is a great idea!!!

 

[Boost infection]

I believe the 2wd and 4wd 4dr tahoes have the same rear suspension so it shouldn't matter.

Thanks alot.

 

[Boost infection]

Belltech keys. They came in their kit for the 2dr tahoes but you can buy them seperately. I'm also using Belltech's Street Performace shocks which I like the best out of all that I've tried.

Belltech keys part# 3920

I have the torsion bar unloading tool so it made the job easier. The only problem I had was one of the torsion bars would budge (slide out of the key). Besides that, it was very easy and straight forward. Also I started out by using belltech's short bump stops for the front but decided to put the stock ones back in (trimmed a little bit though). I read that the bump stops on our trucks are part of the suspension, they somehow help with the spring rate of the torsion bars. They have to be kissing the stock bumpstops a little. It rides much better now.

Just look at how the stock stops are on you stock height truck. They are probably touching your lower control arms.

I looking to do the same. I wanted if I can use torsion keys with drop springs. I want to get the best performance ride from my truck.

 

[TOWRIGG]

whippled 2dr. can you please tell me what you modified on the 4dr shackle/hanger kit to make it fit your 2dr.? i think thats what im gonna go with...im having a hard time finding a bolt on kit for my 94 yukon gt....

 

[JB11]

In the front you can use drop torsion keys to get 1"-3" adjustable. For the rear you can use a flip kit (will probably drop it 5"-6"), 3.5" drop leafs (mine dropped me 4.5"), or modify a 4dr tahoe shackle/hanger kit.

I didn't like the load capacity of the belltech drop leafs so I modified a DJM 4dr tahoe shackle hanger kit. It got me 4" drop and I can use my stock leafs. IMO it rides much better now than with the drop leafs.

I used the upper holes of the drop shackle and the barely cleared the fill hose. They have been on for a couple of months now and have had no issues.

First, I unscrewed the stock bolt holding on the driver's side hook in the back cargo area and replaced it with a M10 x 65mm 1.5 pitch bolt. I then used one of these clamps
http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/galsteelvind1.html
and put it around the vent tube next to the filler hose. I tightened it up with a M10 locknut until it lifted the hose up enough to barely clear the shackle.

I can't remember exactly but i believe two new holes were drilled into the frame and one new hole in the hanger (for each side). Then you had to massage the cabin floor a little to clear the hanger. The hardest part about this swap was getting the rivets out, what a pain.

Pics:
Shackles





Drop Hangers

well I changed the bolt, put the bracket and sucked mine up like yours. The big filler hose is touching the bottom of the cab. However by measuring it doesnt seem like theres gonna be enough clearance.

you do anything else to clear these?...is your hose mashed any?

does yours rub the hose?....can you get your finger between the hose shackle?

---------- Post added at 08:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ----------

my before pics

as you can see my hose appears to be as high as I can get it....right to the floor

 

[Whippled2dr]

I didn't do anything else to tuck it up there. Its up as far as it will go touching the cab and there is at least 1/4 inch clearance on mine.

 

[custom97]

I didn't do anything else to tuck it up there. Its up as far as it will go touching the cab and there is at least 1/4 inch clearance on mine.

Do you have better pics of the modification of the 4dr hangers you used?

 

[Whippled2dr]

I try to get some in a week or so. Don't have the truck with me.

I believe the top two holes of the hangers matched the original hanger holes. For the bottom hole closer to the front of the truck, a new hole was drilled into the frame but used the DJM hanger hole as reference. The last bottom bolt hole of the hanger was a new hole drilled through the frame and hanger. Also the cab bottom/top (whatever you want to call it), where the leaf spring will bolt near, will need to be massaged a little with a hammer to make space.

One problem by using these hangers and doing the above method was that the rear axle came forward a little and there might be driveshaft length issues (yoke will slide into the transfer case a little). Mine was fine since I had enough slack.

 

[TurboBu]

make sure to pull the rear drive shaft, set the rear u-joint yoke straight up and measure the angle in degrees of the rear yoke and the transmission/transfercase and after lowering make sure the difference betwwen those two is the same. If they are different add wedge shims between the leaf spring and axle.

---------- Post added at 11:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

I almost started my own thread looking for the same setup. Is there a complete kit to lower 2dr 4x4 2-4 inches level and maintain factory or better ride quality and still be able to tow? What is the best for the $$$ alamode?

 

[Spade]

suscribed